Hi, I replaced my fuel lines (not fun )

I have new fuel lines as per those instructions floating around.

note: the intake line on my truck had already been relpaced but I bought the truck used and didn't know it


Ok so now my problem is auctually getting a bit worse now, I replaced my fuel filter at the same time as the 2 lines and couldn't find anything wrong

The truck is hard to start and I have to crank and crank and crank it over then it pops right off when it finally goes, when I replaced my fuel lines and didn't have fuel to my injector pump I noticed it fired differently, not an instant pop off like normal but it missed a few times then cleaned up. I don't think my problem is fuel or lack of or air in my lines but I think it's electrical.

What electric sensor or what ever would allow you to crank and crank your engine before it will start?

 

The only thing electrical that would cause long cranking is the shut down solenoid not pulling up all the way. Easy to check, just turn the key to crank the engine, leave key on then check that it's pulling up all the way. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble..._solenoid.html

I doubt it's your problem though, most likely a leak somewhere else in the fuel system. If you have compressed air easy way to find the leak is to wrap a rag around a blow gun and pressurize the system though the fuel tank fill. 5 PSI MAX.

 

Does the hard starting vary with the amount of fuel you have? An owner recently posted a similar problem that showed up only when below a 1/4 tank or so. He ended up replacing his fuel pick up in the tank as a hole had been rubbed in it and was letting air in when the fuel level dropped below the hole. Just a thought...

 

I was hoping so when I went and filled the tank to max capacity but no luck there either But if I park the front of the truck on an incline that seems to help a ton! People look at me funny when I park with my tires up on the sidewalks

Im going to dig into it heavy as soon as I get some time off, unfortunatly that won't be for ahwile, working 2 weeks straight then have 4 days off with an Elk hunting trip planned for those 4 days. Might have to work on it after work and borrow a vehicle to drive back and forth to work


Wish me luck on bagging me a big Elk, going archery hunting for the first time this year.

 

I think you have an air leak. Pressurize the tank with a 12v compressor and you will be able to hear the leak. A small air leak makes a big difference because as the fuel cools, air is introduced into the system.

 

The parking on the incline leads me to believe the check valves in your transfer pump are shot. Unfortunately they aren't available separately, you'll have to buy the entire pump, around $60 from any auto parts.

 

Check your overflow valve. Sometimes a bad one will show just these symptoms.
The other likely culprit is the shutoff solenoid. If it doesn't pull in you won't fire until it does. I've seen this many times, too. The solenois may not be bad, but the connections, relay, etc should be checked first.

 

Where do I find the overflow valve and shutoff solenoid? I want to check everything once I get time to do all this work I wanna make dang sure everything gets checked/replaced including that x-ferr pump, and Im even going to redo those fuel lines again because Napa gave me multi-duty lines even though I asked for Diesel fuel lines, they told me that stuff would be fine but I'm going to put on Marine Diesel fuel lines, I KNOW those will last. I am going to go thru the entire fuel system with a fine tooth comb then Im going install that #10 plate and 3k gov springs while im at it. When I get Greasy filty dirty and fire up that truck I want to be pleased... makes it all worth it

 

You should be able to find everything you need to know by browsing this page>
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/2nd_Gen-12v.htm

 

HAHAHA I found it

I'm a happy camper now, except that fuel shutoff solinoids are EXPENSIVE!!

I called the Dodge dealer and they wanted like $690.00 (canadian funds) holy crapola~ I ordered a new relay instead for like 33 bucks (canadian) so like 20 something US funds.

Ok so here is how I found out, I lifted the solinoid arm straight up and it kinda clicked into place and held there. The engine started perfectly!! so now I have a piece of wire looped around the bottom of the bracket and I just tug on that before I start the engine and it fires up perfectly every single time! If I don't pull the solinoid hard enough with the wire then it will kill the engine when I loosen the wire, and if I leave the wire pulling on the arm then the engine won't shut off when I turn the key off. SO I need to make sure the solinoid clicks in the upper position and stays there. and I remove the wire

This will work until my new relay comes in then I'll replace that and pray to god it works, if not then I'll be replacing the solinoid next and my wallet isn't gonna like that any At least this will save a lot of wear and tear on my starter..



SO people with starting problems test your shutoff solinod by lifting the arm manually and see if your engine starts right up, if so then maybe you dont have an air leak after all It's really easy to find out

 

you may just have a bad connection where the solenoid wire connects to the battery.
Mine wouldn't start one day and I found that the wire had corroded and broke.

 

This happens a lot. Why Dodge decided to put that wire directly on the battery terminal I'll never know. I took mine off and moved it to the unfused side of the main bus. It gets the same voltage, but doesn't get corroded like it will on the battery.

 

I just ordered a solenoid from a real nice guy on ebay... apex6000.

$125 shipped.

 

I also moved my wires down to the main bus on the unfused side, but my problem didn't go away when I put a fresh end on the wire and hooked it up.

I'm still hoping it might be the Relay.

Maybe you all would know, if I turn the key on and the solenoid does not lift but does stay lifted once I raise it by hand could that be the relay? Once I turn the key off it does fall down shutting off the engine as normal, it just won't lift by itself when I turn the key on.

 

It could be the relay or the wiring to it. There is a pull-in and a hold in coil in the shut-off solenoid. You've proven the hold-in side when it holds after you raise it into the solenoid housing. The pull-in coil is energized when the starter is engaged. To test it, hit the starter briefly. If the solenoid energizes and holds in, that's how it should work. If not, in your case the pull-in circuit needs to be investigated.