Grrrrrr, truck won't start now!
08-22-2006 | 08:18 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 851
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena, MD
Grrrrrr, truck won't start now!
But, looks like the search button has led me to the problem. Not looking forward to tackling this job. I need to replace the fuel filter while I'm in there anyways. Return this cartridge-style filter and get the other kind.
Here's what I found; anything else I should be looking for?
Where is this solenoid/relay? Anyone got a pic?
I need to buy marine-grade hose I believe right? Anything special to perform this task, or just a simple swap? Anything to look out for when replacing these lines?
Yay...more work to do. 
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/
Here's what I found; anything else I should be looking for?
A couple things occure to me, a crack in the fuel line, between tank & pump, thats vacume so you may not see a leak.
Next is the fuel shut off soliniod, going out of adjustment, or the relay conntacts getting burn- I filed mine a year ago, fine since .
Next is the fuel shut off soliniod, going out of adjustment, or the relay conntacts getting burn- I filed mine a year ago, fine since .
I also took my fuel solenoid relay apart and the contacts in the relay were nasty. So that is what probably caused my occasional difficult to start condition. Cleaned up the contcts, put the relay back together and it starts fast.
Fuel Shutdown Solonoind RELAY?
The relay can be checked by turning your key on, popping your hood, and check to see if the the soloniod is engaged. If its not, then push it up, then get back in the truck and it should start. If is is engaging, then the Relay is not your problem.
The relay can be checked by turning your key on, popping your hood, and check to see if the the soloniod is engaged. If its not, then push it up, then get back in the truck and it should start. If is is engaging, then the Relay is not your problem.
The spittin and sputterin sounds like it is losing prime to me, and like John mentioned, the fuel lines are probably the cause. Do a search on fuel lines and you will be good to go. It's two short sections of rubber hose, return is 5/16ths and the supply is 3/8ths (thats the id of the rubber hose). About 18 inches long for each (buy extra to be safe).
There are orings in the liftpump that eventually fail. The orings are easily replaced. When taking apart the liftpump be careful. It's all plastic. On my 96' the biggest problem was the soft line from the fuel preheater to liftpump. After replacement I opened the line. Couldn't believe the dryrot. Never leaked fuel out but, air found it's way in.
When replacing the fuel lines removing the starter helps access. This is a good time to install LarryB's upgraded contacts. This is either do it now fix for $35 or replace the whole starter later.
Just replace the rubber lines, if they haven't leaked yet they will in the future.
Very common for the hoses to be dry, not leak fuel but suck air.
If you want to make the job easier and prevent future leaks from the metal lines run hose all the way from the engine to the tank and abandon the stock lines.
Very common for the hoses to be dry, not leak fuel but suck air.
If you want to make the job easier and prevent future leaks from the metal lines run hose all the way from the engine to the tank and abandon the stock lines.
I used to have this problem about every 6 months when I lived in HOT Texas and about every 2 years now that I live in cooler PA. The return line from the injection pump since it runs on top of the engine gets too hot and will develop pin holes which will break the vacuum on intake side of the injection pump. To start the truck you have to prime the lift pump if the truck sits for a 2 or more days.
Easy test to see if this is the problem....Park your truck on a hill (doesn't need to be steep maybe 1 foot grade over the length of the truck) with the engine on the down hill side. If your truck starts after a few days without having to prime it, then splice in a section of return line from the injection pump down past the engine to about the firewall.
Easy test to see if this is the problem....Park your truck on a hill (doesn't need to be steep maybe 1 foot grade over the length of the truck) with the engine on the down hill side. If your truck starts after a few days without having to prime it, then splice in a section of return line from the injection pump down past the engine to about the firewall.
08-22-2006 | 08:33 AM
#2
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Don't have a pic of the solenoid, but on mine it is right behind the injector pump. It is kinda angled away from you if you stand on the drivers side.
On the fuel hose, it is a bear of a job, takes lots of patience and first aid for your knuckles, but can be completed yourself in a couple of hours. I would remove the fuel filter to give yourself more room, and also replace all the way to the tank with rubber hose. I used about 12' each of 5/16" and 3/8" hose and hose clamps for each end. Make sure you have diesel rated hose, the marine is a nice upgrade.
The plastic quick connects on the tank module are a bit hard to get off, but if you are replacing with rubber anyway you can trash them to get them off. Secure the lines to the old steel lines with zip ties and away you go. Infidel has a pretty cool trick of pressurizing the tank to reprime after you are all done. Good luck!
On the fuel hose, it is a bear of a job, takes lots of patience and first aid for your knuckles, but can be completed yourself in a couple of hours. I would remove the fuel filter to give yourself more room, and also replace all the way to the tank with rubber hose. I used about 12' each of 5/16" and 3/8" hose and hose clamps for each end. Make sure you have diesel rated hose, the marine is a nice upgrade.
The plastic quick connects on the tank module are a bit hard to get off, but if you are replacing with rubber anyway you can trash them to get them off. Secure the lines to the old steel lines with zip ties and away you go. Infidel has a pretty cool trick of pressurizing the tank to reprime after you are all done. Good luck!
08-22-2006 | 08:56 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 851
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena, MD
OK I'll check for that to see if that is the issue. I had my tank dropped a few months ago to replace a rear brake line that had popped a leak, I wish I'd have known about this problem then! Could have saved some time, and done it all then. 
I remember seeing his pressurizing strategy, with the 10PSI & rag...might have to try that one.
Found this post from Infidel too:
...and about the relay:
Great info here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ighlight=start
I've got my work cut out for me.
I remember seeing his pressurizing strategy, with the 10PSI & rag...might have to try that one.
Found this post from Infidel too:
More than likely your full return line is leaking. It can leak in air without leaking fuel out and will have to be replaced eventually on 100% of 12 valves. If you contine cranking for a long time or keep your tank full it will probably start.
You will need about two feet of 5/16'' diesel rated hose, a couple
of clamps and a lot of patience, it's a tight fit. It is availible as a
kit here for $14.95> http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
In the picture below you can see the line where it passes under the water
temp sensor (upper right) the end with the clamp is to the left of the
fuel filter, which needs to be removed to gain access. If you have vacuum
assisted brakes ('94-'96) you will also need to remove the two nuts that
hold the master cylinder with fluid reservoir and move it towards the
drivers side, pull the large vacuum hose off the brake booster and it
moves easier than it looks.
To get to the other end of the hose you need to move the two relays with
their bracket out of the way, one 3/8'' screw under the hood seal does it.
Remove the hose hold down clamps towards the rear of the filter. I also
completely remove the engine lift hook. Now you can follow the hose down
by feel and remove the clamp. The rest with the new hose is self evident.
The intake line is 3/8'' in the same area but a little easier to get at.
Sure wish it was as easy to see as this diagram, the only place you can
really see the line is right past the hold clamps a few inches forward of
the temp sender, even then you can only see a couple inches of it. Most of
the job has to be done by feel with one hand.
You will need about two feet of 5/16'' diesel rated hose, a couple
of clamps and a lot of patience, it's a tight fit. It is availible as a
kit here for $14.95> http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
In the picture below you can see the line where it passes under the water
temp sensor (upper right) the end with the clamp is to the left of the
fuel filter, which needs to be removed to gain access. If you have vacuum
assisted brakes ('94-'96) you will also need to remove the two nuts that
hold the master cylinder with fluid reservoir and move it towards the
drivers side, pull the large vacuum hose off the brake booster and it
moves easier than it looks.
To get to the other end of the hose you need to move the two relays with
their bracket out of the way, one 3/8'' screw under the hood seal does it.
Remove the hose hold down clamps towards the rear of the filter. I also
completely remove the engine lift hook. Now you can follow the hose down
by feel and remove the clamp. The rest with the new hose is self evident.
The intake line is 3/8'' in the same area but a little easier to get at.
Sure wish it was as easy to see as this diagram, the only place you can
really see the line is right past the hold clamps a few inches forward of
the temp sender, even then you can only see a couple inches of it. Most of
the job has to be done by feel with one hand.
...and about the relay:
Solenoid problem is most often a corroded blue fusible link or bad relay. Blue link runs from driver's side battery positive to the relay. It usually rots right at the battery. If the solenoid boot is gone the plunger might be gunked up and need cleaning. Be careful, an intact boot is what holds it together, parts may fly when you remove the linkage. I make new boots from a section of bicycle inner tube and two cable ties, last longer than the $30 ones from Cummins.
Wiring diagram, click on arrow icon to enlarge http://www.fostertruck.com/images/Ram_wire_diagram.jpg
Replacement relay> http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
Wiring diagram, click on arrow icon to enlarge http://www.fostertruck.com/images/Ram_wire_diagram.jpg
Replacement relay> http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ighlight=start
I've got my work cut out for me.
08-22-2006 | 09:18 AM
#4
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 851
Likes: 0
From: Pasadena, MD
You know what I feel stupid now, guy I bought the truck from pointed at a relay that was zip tied and said something about it not starting, but I didn't pay much attention. I'll check out that relay when I get home.
08-22-2006 | 02:07 PM
#6
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
From: Kansas
Originally Posted by Dave88LX
OK weird. I got home from lunch, and went out there, truck fired right up. I don't get it now.
By the way, you don't have to drop the tank or raise the bed to do the lines if you can squeeze between the bed side and the frame. It is kinda tight and you may need some kind of light to see what you are doing, but I'm 6'4"/245 and was able to work in that area to do the lines. It's the under the hood part that gets you. Return line is a (fill in the blank here) to get on.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tndiesel
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
37
06-15-2011 12:51 PM