grinding from somewhere in the front...
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 68
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From: Richmond and Shawsville, VA
grinding from somewhere in the front...
i was driving today (obviously), felt a snap/jerk kind of like i ran over something and it got caught...with grinding that sounded like it was coming from the drivers side front wheel. it definitely is in the drivetrain and it changed a little with speed and not RPMs. hitting bumps made it louder.
i did a search...could this be something to do with a snap ring in the transfer case? wheel bearings? it was very sudden, so it didnt seem like a wheel bearing thing to me.
any help would be great. i parked it at a friends house for now.
i did a search...could this be something to do with a snap ring in the transfer case? wheel bearings? it was very sudden, so it didnt seem like a wheel bearing thing to me.
any help would be great. i parked it at a friends house for now.
#4
Sounds like a wheel hub to me.
Jack up the side thats bad and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and see if it moves. If it does its a wheel hub.
When mine went out the wheel would move about 2" when I checked it.
Jack up the side thats bad and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and see if it moves. If it does its a wheel hub.
When mine went out the wheel would move about 2" when I checked it.
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#8
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 68
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From: Richmond and Shawsville, VA
and wheres the best place to get one?
#10
i replaced 4-5 wheel hub bearing assemblies on my old 95 half ton, the first time took about 5 hours, i can now do it in about 30-45. i am unsure how different the 3/4 and 1ton 4 wheel drives are.
my old 95 4x4 the cost of them from the local auto parts warehouse was $160ish
my 03 2x4 3/4 ton cost from the dealer was $475ish
my biggest hint if i were telling someone how to do a 95 is nubolt the giant castle nut on the axle before you start jacking it up or anything.
my old 95 4x4 the cost of them from the local auto parts warehouse was $160ish
my 03 2x4 3/4 ton cost from the dealer was $475ish
my biggest hint if i were telling someone how to do a 95 is nubolt the giant castle nut on the axle before you start jacking it up or anything.
#11
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 68
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From: Richmond and Shawsville, VA
thanks.
#12
Expect to pay around $200-$300 at the auto stores.
Summit has them here.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
www.rockauto.com has timken ones for $135.00. You can also get another %5 off by typing turbodiesel in the coupon box.
They also have fast shipping.
I order 99% of my parts from there.
Summit has them here.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
www.rockauto.com has timken ones for $135.00. You can also get another %5 off by typing turbodiesel in the coupon box.
They also have fast shipping.
I order 99% of my parts from there.
#15
you need a 12 point socket set (metric) and a big socket with a good impact or a large breaker bar to get that big nut loose. I think it is like a 1 1/2 or 1 5/8 or so, someone correct me on that please, and a brass drift or something comperable to knock the studs out. Other than that I thought they were fairly easy to change. The problems sounded like a wheel bearing failure to me. Mine wandered and rattled and banged over bumps and squeeked. It didn't up and fail all of a sudden but that doesn't mean they wont. If that isn't the problem then I would check your control arms or your shocks. when those control arms get hammered up mine drives terrible and makes a bad racket. As far as the shocks, when the bushings go bad then they make a lot of noise but drive fine.