MDW

Did you get it fixed?

Diesel-Dan

Still weighing my options. We are going to try to strighten up the stud....been busy with another truck...but that is out of our hair today....its 12V time. Im pumped (No pun intended!!).....it dont sound that hard to pull the pump...i am going to make lemonade out of lemons!!!!!

Jim Fulmer

Dan, pull the pump and get it fixed right, you don't want that stuff to go bad at max RPM. All they will have to do is the back half of the pump, it shouldn't be that expensive.

Jim

Diesel-Dan

Update...we were able to remove the springs.....and i found an error on my part....man...i hate to admit this...but i put the spring seat on top of ONE of the spring instead of the bottom. This caused the spring cap to sit up higher.....it cleared when i had the nut cranked down...but when i loosened it a few clicks...........also explained my sporadic idle.

Lesson learned....don’t be dyslexic when installing gov springs and you will be ok!!!

Also a pointer i got from Piers him self when setting up the springs. He said that if you dont have a caliper to measure, or if the idle is off, back off the nut untill the springs are loose. Then tighten them up untill you feel a click. Then go one more click. That should be the correct set up for the springs. ALSO to test, rev the motor slowly one RPM click at a time. It should rise smoothly and not rev suddenly. If it shoots up fast around the 1800 RPM range....springs are too tight....need to readjust them.
Man i hope this keeps people from messing this crap up......im still sick.......

Dan

Jim Fulmer

ALSO to test, rev the motor slowly one RPM click at a time. It should rise smoothly and not rev suddenly. If it shoots up fast around the 1800 RPM range....springs are too tight....need to readjust them.

It will also make the throttle too touchy on the road, I can set mine at initial click plus 3 clicks and you can forget the cruise control, now back it off one click and it does fine except downhill...too much pump and too much slack in a locker....not a good combo.

Jim

Dargo

Gee, I'm glad I did my change before I read this. I would have been too scared to do it myself. Fortunately I was luck enough to have the job go over rather easily. A while back Infidel posted his method of changing them and it worked for me. I guess I was lucky I just used the alternator nut to roll the engine. I was a little apprehensive at taking exact measurements of the stud top to the spring and putting it back in precisely the same position. I guess I got lucky. Not only did it go smoothly, but for some reason my truck starts immediately when I bump the starter now. Before it took a second or two of cranking to start. Oh well, I'm not complaining.

Diesel-Dan

WELLLL......after a week of messing with it....(I don’t own the shop....i would have much rather just got the dang thing fixed in the first place!!!!!) we got the stud straight and works perfect! Don’t ask how....but it involved a custom made bracket to pry off of, a propane/oxy torch, a big pry bar, dye to rethread, another Gov spring nut (cuz you can't use them to rethread the shaft..they will crack), and watching lots of Discovery Health Channel!!! I DO NOT SUGGEST THIS TO ANYONE....too much stress...take to pump off and get it fixed right.....we got EXTREAMLY lucky in my eyes! My only complaint is that it takes a bit to start (2-3 seconds). Any way to adjust that? I am pretty sure it was like that when the truck came in but i would like to try to adjust it for keeping the truck soo long! Anyways.....

Its easy...just follow the directions exactly....and don’t put the springs in upside down and you will be fine ( ) ! I don’t want to scare anyone...i just want to open their eyes to what can happen if you have a laps in thinking.......

infidel

The hard starting might be caused by the timing too far advanced.

tgrfan3

You make me glad I stayed with a #6 on my 98. I can live with 2600 rpm.