Diesel-Dan

Well...a nightmare happened to me when i did a set of gov springs. I had them a bit tight and went to adjust them....backed them off and tried to bar the motor over....didn’t want to turn...(BIG MISTAKE ENTER HERE) Thought the belt was slipping so i hit the starter...it moved....and bent the Gov Spring stud right along with it! I AM SICK! I cant get the springs out of the recess. They are jammed. AND now is seems that the top retainer for the spring decide to take a dive in to the dark recesses of the pump........my day was not a good one on fri...so i decide to take the weekend off to cool off and start back today. It looks like i am going to have to take this P7100 off the truck and have a pump shop replace the gov spring assembly. How does one go about taking the pump off? I have found lots of info on the VP44 R&R. Is there a step by Step out there as well? Got to learn some time.....didn’t want to under these circumstances. Thanks much for any advice!

Dan

MikeR

Same thing just happened last wednesday to one of the other guys here in the shop.
He was installing a 3k kit, and didn't get the retainer in far enough. He barred the motor by hand, bent the spring stud and sheared the gov flywheight assy from the pump shaft. Cost us $750 to have the pump shop repair it. Ouch!

Diesel-Dan

sigh....that is what i thought.....we are going to try to bend ti back stright......try is the word...man i learned a valuable lesson....

vssman

Dan,

Make sure it's straight or the governor may stick at a higher RPM. You definately don't want that to happen. Pulling the pump isn't too hard. Remove the air horn, fuel lines (high & low pressure), oil feed line, probably the oil sending unit so it doesn't break, any brackets that hold it to the engine. Pull the front cover off and remove the pump gear. The pump should then unbolt from the back of the front cover assy.

Diesel-Dan

Do i need to Lock the pump in? I have heard that keep the timing correct.

SHARPMACHINE

This post does not make me any less nervous about my 3gsk install coming up. Well the truth is I'm scared and excited all at once!

Diesel-Dan

DO NOT BE SCARED! Its not that hard....but DO be very Careful that you have everything seated correctly. It will be noticeable (Hind sight 20/20!) if it is sticking up too far....i look at it and went DUAH! Then it set in what i did and then started thinking about where i am going to pull the money to pay for this crap!

Rule of thumb....if you bar the motor over with the alt nut...it will lock up with out bending.......belt will slip......if you use the starter...it will bend! This is also a post to keep many that are going to be doing this from the same mistake I did! I wish i knew this before i tried! Would have stopped me from messing up. Kinda like cam gears on a Nissan DOHC 3.0L. You never let them slip with the chain or belt off...or you will be doing a valve job..........thank God that this isn't as involved.

SHARPMACHINE

Mudinford,

Thanks for the advice and the post - this site rules..

infidel

If you can turn the engine to tdc and lock the pump your life will be easier upon reinstallation.

Diesel-Dan

That is what i have been told. Do i have to take the entire fnt cover off or can i go about it like the 24V's? And where is the lock located on the pump? Thanks for the info!

Dan

MnTom

Dan, The lock nut that you are wondering about is behind the oil filler. All you need to do is un-bolt the bracket, then turn the entire oil filler COUNTER-CLOCKWISE. It will come off in your hand quite easily. Just make sure that you pinned the pump and then don't turn the engine and you will be fine for the timing. The gear is just on a tapered shaft so it would be very easy to goof up the timing. When you reassemble the pump, make sure you clean the pump shaft very well and torque the nut to 160 ft.lbs. Ibelieve that is the correct number. If it is not I am sure somebody will chime in with the correct number.
Tom

infidel

There is another timing pin that is better to use than the one above but I couldn't find a picture. It's on the side of the pump under a bolt head cover, remove the cover pull out the pin and and turn the pin around and insert at tdc, replace the cover.

sewman

Don't pin the pump b4 you pull it,you'll break the pin.
It's best to have the engine @ tdc then when you put the pump back on have the pin set on the pump & when you get the cam nut stated then remove b4 you tighten it.
You should probably get a Haynes manual to read,it sure helped when I had to pull my pump to get the gov spring out,that sucker is heavy too .
Good Luck
Bob

98rammer

yeah, you don't want to bend the governor spring assembly the 3000gsk is intimating, but i've done it about 5 times and it's really no big deal.

one thing joe donnelly to me when i was changing my pumps: use Mopar Nonchlorinated Brake Cleaner on the injection pump shaft. use a hair dryer on low heat to dry the cleaner, then torque to 144lbs. 170lbs he said will rip the nut off the threads. i've heard of a lot of shops doing 160lbs, but if you clean it right, you should not need that much torque.

Tom

Jim Fulmer

You guys are losing me on pulling the pump, you will need a pump gear puller (like the one in a timing set) and you will need to either find TDC or roll the motor over till you can pin the pump.....not the motor (after you break the pump nut T/Q) this will let you put the pump back in at the same timing setting.....or advance it. It's not that bad of a job, my first one took like 2 hours, I can now do it in 45 min or less!

Jim