niekrewb

The metal lines coming out of the fuel tank sending on my 97 2500 are rusted and leaking.
Can these lines be replaced? Or do I need to buy a new sending unit assembly for $340

Also- It looks like there is a huge white plastic nut which holds the sending unit assembly to the tank. Anyone know what to use to remove that huge nut?

Thanks in advance

Mcmopar

I have had this issue a few times, Go to a junk yard and get a sending unit for a newer truck, they went to plastic, no more rust problems. I did my 98.5 and changed to a 2001 sending unit, no problem-direct bolt in. I did my Dad's 96, replaced it with a 2000 unit. This unit was the same as the 98.5 and 2001 unit. The 96 unit was different---It was late at night so we just switched out the inlet/outlet portion of the sending unit. Have spare hose available before you start!!!! I used a strap wrench to remove the big nut. There is an arrow on the sending unit so you orient it the proper way.

Good luck. The tank will come out without removing the skid plate on a short box truck, and is really easy on a long box. Remove the driveshaft so you have room to work-4-5/16 bolts I think, maybe 8mm?? Start spraying penetrating lube on the two fuel tank studs NOW-I broke mine off and had to weld in new ones. My dad soaked his and they came right off for me.

Once the tank has come down about 2-3 inches, stick you head up in there(between the tank and exhaust; you removed the drive shaft already) and disconnect the hoses to the fuel lines that run up the frame and the ones used to fill the truck, and the filler vent tube. If the sending unit lines are really rust, they will be a Bi__h to remove, I cut the meatl line off as close to the tank as possible, removed the tank the rest of the way, and they removed the rusty lines from the plastic lines. DO NOT damage the "funky" little plastic connectors on the truck.

I wish I had taken pictures for you, but I don't have that much foresight when I do these projects. Will take you between 2-5 hours depending on how hard it is to disconnect the rusty stubs from the frame lines.

Good luck again.

Mcmopar

Funny thing, both of our trucks-mine and Dads, we recently moved-are from NY. BE SURE the sending unit you get is the white plastic lines or you will be doing it again in a few.

infidel

Tilt the bed rather than dropping the tank.
Much easier to remove the three driver's side bolts that hold the bed down and loosen the three on the other side, remove the fill tube and vent then tilt the bed up and prop it. Two people can lift the bed while one other props it up or use a jack, comealong etc. No need to run the tank down low which can be tricky without a gauge. I use a pair of 16 " Channel-Lock Bigazz pliers for the nut.

Geico266

I just tap it with a chisel and hammer, LIGHTLY! A strap wrench works too.

Hemi Cat

Yup, Easiest to tilt the box to access the fuel sender. Those rusted bolts can get time consuming to drop the tank. I preferr to use a strap wrench or chain wrench to remove the big plastic collar nut. Hammer and punch tend to break the nut (by the time you get that far you have difficulty controlling how hard you hit it with the hammer, if you are like me ) If the sender elbows are rusted out, the lines on the frame are probably just as bad, make sure you replace them too. Good luck

kd460

Great stuff guys!

Question: Can you eliminate those el cheapo plastic clips and the short section of plastic tubing by just replacing it with rubber?

My fuel gauge still works, but the low level indicator does not. Bulb seems good, is this the sending unit as well?

McMopar, are you saying the driveshaft has to be removed or it just makes things easier for lowering the tank?

I like the raise the bed method, but I have the plates and brackets for a 5th wheel hitch installed. Still easier than dropping the tank?

The only reson I am looking into this is because the big white plastic nut leaks a little when really full. Thanks, Kevin

Mcmopar

The trucks I have done this on have had "BIG" caps on them and I was by myself when doing the job, so I removed the driveshaft just for more room. If you raise the bed it would not be required!!

infidel

If the lines are rusted out run hose all the way from the tank to the engine. When I do this I use plastic electrical loom to protect the hose from chafing.

niekrewb

Guys Thanks for all the really quick replies. This board is great!
Much appreciated.

Captain

heres my 0.02. My return line rusted through on the sending unit. I found out because my feet got wet filling the tank while the truck was running anyway. Those connectors between the line and the sending unit that are plastic are a pain in the butt. Mine were seized on. Your suposed to just squeez the tabs together and pull. The return line one broke. The feed line was ok. Now if you wanted to replace a broken line you have to pay hundreds of dollors to dodge to get the entire length of stainless tubeing with the fused on plastic hose. I bought fuel hose cut the plastic return hose off to the stainless line on the inner frame rail and hose clamped it onto that and to the new plastic sending unit. Has help up well since this summer. Also I found no need to remove the drive shaft for my method. I'm sure both work well though. I simply sat up between the quarter panel and the fuel tank under the bed and could work on everything. Lowering the tank a few inches helps. Also I found out after doing everything that NAPA sells all kinds of those weirdo plastic snap fittings on the fuel sending units and lines. So if you break one or throw the part out thats attached to the sending unit you need to swap over to the new one try napa first. err. Im sure Ileft something out. just yell if you need any more help from my direction.

kd460

Captian, thanks, thats just the info I was looking for. Not really having trouble with the sending unit yet, but getting my guns loaded so I'll be ready when it does go. Kevin

Barry Smith

Can you get the sending unit from Napa? This is a 1998 truck do they have much trouble with those line rusting?