Well, it looks like my fuel shutdown solenoid is ready to kick it...

It dropped out several times while driving home tonight, I ended up tying the lever up with a wire.

Since the start circuit doesn't run, except while starting, it would be somewhere in the run circuit. So either an intermittent wire connection, or the solenoid itself.

I think I'll just replace it with a cable. Anyone have a good suggestion on how to rig the cable so it pulls from below, yet can still push up to turn it on? This way I can make the cable more "bump proof" to prevent accidental shutdowns while driving?

 

If you go to an IH dealer and get the cable for a dt466 with a P7100, it will be a pull to shutdown. I believe that you actually take off part of the linkage on the back of the pump for this system.

I have a cable that is pull up to start and have never ever had it accidentally shut down on me. If you mount it in the right location and use a pto cable, it won't be a problem.

 

I ended up using a choke cable in a pinch cause it was all I could find at the time ,its pull to shut of and works fine,Ive never had any issues at all.

 

The solenoid itself rarely fails and is almost always visibly burned up on the outside when it does.
The hold circuit is very straight forward. Most common problem is a loose connection under the steering wheel cowl. Dodge skimped on the wire length, tilting the steering wheel can pull the connector apart or pull the wire out of the connector.

 

That confused/surprised me too...

but the solenoid shows no continuity (infinite resistance) between the hold pin and ground. It showed ~2 ohms on the start circuit to ground (at the connector). The other side showed 12V when in run. No burn up - I'm guessing a broken wire in the solenoid (vibration...).

I may jumper the hold circuit to the battery then manually pull up the arm, and see if it will hold, just to make sure my idiot sense isn't running too hard...

 

On your pull cable idea, you don't have to worry about accidental shut downs if you have to pull the cable out to kill it. The pump automatically goes to the run position. I've driven my truck for 3 months without a cable or a solenoid. I just have to pop the hood to kill the engine. Just jump in and crank to start.

 

Have you removed it, cleaned the piston and bore (a shotgun brush works well), lubed it with silicone or a dry lube and reinstalled it? I have to do that about every 100k miles because the boot disintegrated a long time ago. 562k miles and counting nearly every day.

 

My daughter's truck had an intermittent problem that was a pain. We put a pull-stop cable on hers, works great.

 

Nope - but I checked the electrical continuity of the solenoid and there is none on the pull circuit (a solenoid is simply a coil of wires, it should have a certain resistance, but if there is no continuity, then it won't pass current, and can't work). It's probably a broken wire somewhere in there.

*shrug* I ordered the pull cable parts from International. If I remember, I'll take some pictures when I install it. I kind of like the idea that even if I had other electrical failures (for example a dead alternator that caused drained batteries), I won't be stranded.

 

grind the rubber down on the shut off solenoids plunmger right down to the metal band inside the plunger. then round the edge off slightly, put it back in your truck, hook it up and itll be fine..

 

Dean, the fuel solenoid used in the 2nd Gen and up trucks is a totally different beast than ours.

 

oops im in the wrong section. haha. my bad... i went back into the first gens and i was like hmm where did that post go to i just replied too

 

Cummins dealer wanted $550 or so minus the 10% "Powerbooster" club discount... and our dollar is above the American dollar!

I figure I'll put the IH package in for $90, and if I ever really desire to return it to stock, I'm not out that much.

 

Peak Diesel or Fosters Trucks has em for less. Did you pierce the wire to test continuity? The connector could be bad...

 

Never tried testing a solenoid with continuity.
A jumper from the battery works for me.
Advantage is you can wiggle the wires around and maybe find an open much easier by the sound of the solenoid.