doodah

where and how much for a fuel shut-off solinoid? does any body have one of these for sale? or should i try the manual choke cable fix.. stayed home from work today just to work on getting truck running and finally figured it out that it wasnt working. had to lift it manualy, tried new releys in fusebox under hood. are these the only relays for this or are there more? If i turn key on and go out and lift it manualy it will start right up. oh, this is a 97 12-valver with an auto by the way..

Got Smoke?

So you already replaced the relay on the firewall? ??? <br><br>If that's not it than it is your solenoid. Cheapest place I've seen them is www.PiersDiesel.com Just short of $300 on his site, best price I've seen yet. Check your local Cummins dealer first though. [glow=red, 2, 300]DO NOT GO TO THE *******!![/glow]

JFellman

Remember when I recommended you check that solenoid a couple days ago when you first posted in the 911 forum? The solenoids are usually ok...test it thoroughly before condemning it. When you test the pullup coil...only apply the 12 volts for a few seconds or you'll smoke it. I haven't had a problem with mine yet but when I do, I will use the manual cable method of fixing it for sure.

When testing it, remember there are two coils...the pullup coil that gets enegized only when the starter cranks and the hold coil that is energized when the key is on. So, if the pullup coil is not working because it is not getting juice, you can turn the key on and pull the solenoid up...if it holds, the engine should start when cranked. Since your starting troubles were sort of hit or miss...I suspect the solenoid is good but there is a problem with the pullup circuit.

check this link for more info regarding the 12v supply for pull circuit...
http://www.turbodieselregister.com/f...threadid=62352

doodah

well, it will not start in the morning so i turn the key, lift hood, lift the linkage up, it does stay up and i go back in the truck and boom...... starts right up. truck starts the rest of the day.-most of the time it starts the first hit, sometimes the second time. so could this possibly be a bad ground?

Neal C.

I have two 95 2500s and have had these problems with both trucks. The solenoids always tested OK so I have not replaced them. Study the wiring diagrams and you will see that the circuit is overly complicated and there are several areas that can cause solenoid pull in problems. There is a saftey feature on both the automatic and the standard transmission trucks. A &quot;neutral saftey switch&quot; on the automatic, and a clutch switch on the standard. If these switches are not making a good contact, your truck may crank, but there might not be sufficient current to enrgize the fuel shutdown relay on the firewall which pulls in the solenoid. Once the starter is cranking, voltage drops way off, so if the fuel solenoid doesn't pull in it that first instant, it's not going to. The engine will crank but never get fuel. The transmission switch is the only one on the truck without modern sealing on the connector, and the plug will be filled with dirt and oil. The clutch switch is the hardest working switch on the truck (every time you shift), and it is really only needed when an idiot starts the truck. Bad saftey switches can damage the contacts of the starter and fuel shutdown relays, and the starter solenoid itself. Changing relays may restore reliable starting again for a while, but they too will be burned due to the bad saftey switch. Any poor connection at the negative battery cables on the block will increase these problems due to the lack of engine to body bonding. Lastly, I suspect that before a starter motor reaches the end of its life, it starts to draw increasing levels of current. This increased current demand at the instant of cranking can prevent the pull in of the fuel solenoid. The problems will be intermittant and can be temperature sensitive. I rebuilt the starter solenoids in both of my trucks, but I would not do it again. At the first sign of starter faults after 100K miles, I would replace the complete starter (only $175 exchange at Auto Zone). The starting circuit is a poorly designed adaptation of the gas truck system. The starter and fuel shutdown relays should not be in series the way they are, and the saftey switch should energize a relay which provides a positive ground for the starter relay.

doomgaze

These guys are right, most of the time it is NOT the solenoid that is causing the problem. Test all your other solutions first.<br><br>However, if you find out that it is, indeed, the solenoid, I have a brand new one, still in the unopened box, for sale. I'm asking $175.

Got Smoke?

Find the problem yet Doodah? ???

doodah

yep, relay on the fire wall!!

Got Smoke?

[quote author=doodah link=board=16;threadid=8470;start=0#84308 date=1040706617]<br>yep, relay on the fire wall!! <br>[/quote]<br><br>Told ya so! :P

yomitch

I'd change it to a choke cable. Its a nice theft deterrant for the unknowing.