stock600

Man those profiles are not what i expected, thier all over the place. Little simularities between them. Dont really get how what ever runs up along these hips, pikes, ledges, and valleys could ever do it smoothly. I was expecting smooth transitions, just the more aggresive profiles to be deeper for more fuel?????? I hate it but its confusing as *** for me at this time. Can any one make light of it? I may buy a 100 and later attempt to turn my stocker into a 0.

thewished

100's are not for sale, they are just stock plates just ground down. I'm thinking of grinding my stock plate to a 0 and pulling my #8 out and see the power difference. Especially since I have a 160 pump. You can buy some already ground stock plates on Ebay for pretty cheap. The way you can tell if it is just a stock plate ground down is it will have the two stamp bolts, aftermarket plates are smooth or have the number of the plate ground in the top.

The reason people put 10 plates in is because the difference in each year trucks. This link will give you an idea of how to read plates but there is no diagram I have found that tells what hp 100 or 0 plates are rated.

http://www.pdrdiesel.com/catalog/12V-35-1.html

Here is a link to to install the plate and there are diagrams not pictures, sorry.

http://www.tstproducts.com/INSRUCT98.pdf

Dr. Evil

Lil Dog

If you are building a race truck with an auto, the 100 or the 0 will be the same as you probably are going to run a higher stall converter. The "valley" on the #10 plate kicks in around 1500, depending on your governor arm setting and GSK kit. You would probably be launching closer to 2K??

There are endless adjustments to make to the fuel admission system, so its not going to be as easy as plopping a plate in there and off you go. Some track time and a box of tools should keep you busy for a weekend at the track.

thewished

^^ That is the other picture I was looking for... Thx for posting it dr. evil

12valvetom

If you want to make it real easy take the plate out and go for a ride like that and go from there if it is to much get a 10 plate or make a 100.... I had a 0 plate and the arm never hit it so i took it out and took the afc housing off.

stock600

Ya finally a nice pic. thanks, yes there will no dought be pleanty of tuning and learning to be had! But really thats the main reason for this project anyway, been racing gas motors for ever and its all running together and getting boring, i love a challenge and to learn new things, im really not challanged by my racing anymore and moving on to the All Mighty Cummins 12 valve! I have loved the power out of my 99 24v and my now 04.5 3rd gen but cant wait to learn all the goods on the p-pumped 12v. I read a lot and have a ways to go! Thanks so far for the info guys.... think i'll start with the zero, 4k gsk, full cuts,afc adj., Edm 435's w/o edge filters, and the pro street 66/71/13ss HTT for now and tune from there. HTT's manifold, and studs also, whats this about the overflow valve i see most sites sell under the 12v section for about 50 bucks, whats it do.........

Lil Dog

The overflow valve regulates the fuel pressure to the P-pump. Simple spring/ball valve system that tries to maintain 15 psi pressure to the pump. Its not considered a performance item.

stock600

Lil dog, got you, on that subject [ fuel pumps] what would you rec. what are others running for race duty. The mech. one still on the block, or plate it off and go with a electric? If electric approx. what press. and gph would you rec. i hope you dont say FASS as i believe thier not all people think they are. Ive run the holley blues and blacks for a combined 185,000 miles on my 99, and 04.5 with zero troubles. But also know that both of those systems run great at the 14-15 psi the the holley provides, not sure what the p-pump wants. Any help would be great!