fuel heater for dummies
#1
fuel heater for dummies
I've been picking the powershop's brains and reviewing threads on the whole "won't start" issues and many are similar to mine. I can't afford to take a day off work or send it to the pro's. Maybe someone out there can hit a home run:
After sitting overnight, whether plugged in or not, it starts great, for about 5 seconds, then sputters and dies. I have to floor the throttle before i can get it running again(apparently i've lost prime), then it runs great all day, even after being parked for 8 hours. No Idle issues, no issues at all. This only happens after being parked all night.
I noticed the voltage isn't going down after startup, so I'm thinking the fuel heater or relays is not working(where can i get one of them and where the heck are the relays?). What's the method to test that? Even if doesn't work, that doesn't mean that the air leak is coming from there.
Truck has new fuel lines, new overflow valve, and the fuel shut off solenoid works.
Sorry if that's alot of questions, I can't take the down time, and it's too cold to ride the dirt-bike to work through Seattle traffic.
After sitting overnight, whether plugged in or not, it starts great, for about 5 seconds, then sputters and dies. I have to floor the throttle before i can get it running again(apparently i've lost prime), then it runs great all day, even after being parked for 8 hours. No Idle issues, no issues at all. This only happens after being parked all night.
I noticed the voltage isn't going down after startup, so I'm thinking the fuel heater or relays is not working(where can i get one of them and where the heck are the relays?). What's the method to test that? Even if doesn't work, that doesn't mean that the air leak is coming from there.
Truck has new fuel lines, new overflow valve, and the fuel shut off solenoid works.
Sorry if that's alot of questions, I can't take the down time, and it's too cold to ride the dirt-bike to work through Seattle traffic.
#2
If it starts great, then dies after 5 seconds, forget the grid heaters and all that.
If it were a grid issue, it would not fire at all.
You could be getting air in at the fuel heater though.
If it were a grid issue, it would not fire at all.
You could be getting air in at the fuel heater though.
#3
My guess is that you have a leak at the fuel heater, unplug the wire connector and look in the connection to see if it is wet with fuel. also unscrew the bowl and look at the gasket, (clean the screen while your in there)then remove the fuel heater element and look at the gasket between the element and housing. these gaskets get brittle over time so you might as well replace them and see if it cures the problem.It is common for the heater to leak and thus when it sits for a long, cold time it let air into the fuel system.The element and gaskets and screen kit are cheaper at a cummins dealer and usually in stock, do a search for fuel heater on here and you will find posts with the part#s Check that the fuel filter is tight and that the drain valve is also tight, also double check all fuel line connections I dont know if the fuel heater will draw enough on the batteries to tell when it is on or not, but the intake heaters will definately make the voltmeter swing back and forth, the intake relays are under the left side battery. You say your truck starts right away it seems that your relays and manifold heater are working, but dies after a few seconds make me think that you have a fuel air problem. I hope this helps
#4
I was at Cummins yesterday, they said the 95 fuel heater was a dodge part, they did not stock it. Looks like fleetguard makes the kit you're referring to, the dude at the counter must not have known.
#5
I'd just get the gasket and screen kit for the pre-heater. I got mine at a John Deere Dealer for $10 or so. Look at the wires, some times they burn up. But I would replace the short rubber lines on the heater/pre-filter. That could be part, or all, of the problem.
#6
Last year I eliminated the fuel heater all together. Live in the north, yes it does get cold here. But my point is that I did get the new strainer and gasket from cummins, if they don't have them on hand they should be able to order it.
#7
hi
my truck fuel heater was long gone when i got the truck .
i use powerservice in the winter and have no problem in 0 weather !
i think you could bypass it with a new hose and elminate any leek there ,just use good quality clamps to keep out leaks !
my truck fuel heater was long gone when i got the truck .
i use powerservice in the winter and have no problem in 0 weather !
i think you could bypass it with a new hose and elminate any leek there ,just use good quality clamps to keep out leaks !
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#8
Just in case we get another ice-age i'll keep the heater. I mean come on, you don't cut off your belly button just cause you don't need it! (what?) Cummins does have the service kit fleetguard part #3845400S, but not the heater itself.
so i bought the service kit and am going to do it myself
I know i need to buy the service manual, but how do you get to this puppy and are there any red flags to look out for before i dig in?
so i bought the service kit and am going to do it myself
I know i need to buy the service manual, but how do you get to this puppy and are there any red flags to look out for before i dig in?
#9
Belly Button
Your right about the belly button, but they do remove a bad apedex, They don't get a new one and put it back in. If you do a search on fuel heaters you will see that they are the source of many problems, I never had enough money to afford issues, and on some equipment that cummins engines are in do not even use the heaters, not needed. But its what ever makes you comfortable.
Floyd
Floyd
#10
"I know i need to buy the service manual, but how do you get to this puppy and are there any red flags to look out for before i dig in?[/QUOTE]"
I've done several.
I go at it from drivers side fender, long arm with out heavy winter coat works well. If you crawl under truck, you'll see what you up against. If yoo it from under truck you'll get fuel in face.
Its easy, its a metric nut on botttom of bowl. Like a 19? I don't remember.
Loosen with wrench, then you can remove by hand. When you look at it, you'll figure it out. There is a nut that holds down the screen in bowl. loosen carefuly. Clean out and install new kit. Screw on by hand and tighten with wrench. Prime manually and start.
I've done several.
I go at it from drivers side fender, long arm with out heavy winter coat works well. If you crawl under truck, you'll see what you up against. If yoo it from under truck you'll get fuel in face.
Its easy, its a metric nut on botttom of bowl. Like a 19? I don't remember.
Loosen with wrench, then you can remove by hand. When you look at it, you'll figure it out. There is a nut that holds down the screen in bowl. loosen carefuly. Clean out and install new kit. Screw on by hand and tighten with wrench. Prime manually and start.
Last edited by roughstock; 02-21-2008 at 11:30 AM. Reason: Confusion
#11
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/filter/pre-filt_clean.htm
Here you go!
When you crack that puppy loose, look out. A slug of diesel will run down your ratchet extension, down your arm, and into your armpit.
Here you go!
When you crack that puppy loose, look out. A slug of diesel will run down your ratchet extension, down your arm, and into your armpit.
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