97RAM

I was backikng up my 5er with the truck in 4 wheel low to get over the curb and up the driveway. Afterwards, in 2 wheel drive the front axel felt like it was still in 4 wheel. It pulses in tight turns and pulls on the steering wheel.

I took it to the local dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong. It seemed to be gone but I can tell it's still there under some situations. It makes some weird noises under tight turns which almost sound like the wheels are chafing under turn loads.

Anyone have any ideas?

Cheers,
RH

freeloader

I've noticed this on occasion myself with my DCTD and other 4WD vehicles I own or have owned. I notice it binding up and a wheel sliding sometimes when in a slow, tight turn on dry pavement, sometimes even dirt or gravel, while maneuvering in 2WD.

With other vehicles, with manual hubs, it only seems to happen when the hubs are locked in. My suspicion is the Dodge's auto hubs are not completely disengaging causing a bit of a bind. Another possibility that comes to mind, maybe the t-c is not fully disengaged: shift linkage needs adjusting?
Only guesses.
FF

freeloader

Tried to edit my previous post. It wouldn't let me. So here:

Yeah, yeah, I know, it has an axle disconnect not auto hubs.

FF

whazzup

My truck was doing the steering wheel shake when doing a sharp turn. I thought that something was not disengaging. Everything was disengaged.

But while poking around under the truck I found that the front axle, half shaft, U-joints were toast. Replaced the U-joints and all is well, also solved a vibration the truck had at 70 MPH.

fschiola

I had a little problem like you describe with my '97. What I came up with was a few of the vacuum line fittings where loose. When I put some ring clamps on them it cleared up the problem of the front axle staying engaged. Took care of the defroster staying on as well. Worth a look into..

Dargo

U-joints were toast. Replaced the U-joints and all is well

I've run across the same problem. U-joints seem to be nice brown toast. My question is: how difficult was it to change the U-joints? Also, is it advisable to go to my local Auto Zone to buy the parts?

0akman

It's not difficult to do, just a little time consuming...but can be a pain if its your first time. You've got to pull the hub/rotor assemblies off then slide the axle shafts out. That way you can get to the retainer rings that hold the u-joints in and swap the joints. I usually just use a pair of needle nose pliers and a flathead to get the retainers out....as far as autozone goes, its fine...as long as you buy spicer stuff, the one here sells them so Im sure yours does.

Dargo

Thanks. A little later in the morning when the stores open, I begin the task. I was just hoping that it wasn't a major task to take the hub assembly off and get the axle shafts out. I've worked on some foreign front wheel drive cars where it takes a slide hammer puller to get the axle shafts out and then they are nearly impossible to pop back into place. I'd gotten to where I really disliked that bit of fun!

97RAM

Well I drove it to Colorado Springs and then back to Layton, Ut over the last two weeks. No more problems, must have been stuck in 4 wheel for a short while.

Good thing is it got 21 mpg on the trip

I have it in the shop getting some engine mods I'll check out the u joints when it gets back.

Cheers,
Ron

vssman

Dargo,

Seeing how your from IN., you'll probably have to persuade the front hubs off. Us guys in the North run on salt roads in the winter and that can cause the hubs be frozen in place. A couple of pry bars and a big hammer should work. My u-joint was so bad that I couldn't even turn the wheel by pushing on the front end by hand. I did have to get a machine shop to press out the U-joint as my biggest hammer & vise wouldn't cut it.

Dargo

VSSMAN,
Thanks for the info. Actually yesterday I gave up trying to get the U-Joints out of the yoke. Same deal, my hammer and socket deal I use with normal driveline U-joints wouldn't budge the one in the yoke I got off of the truck. A local tire shop replaced both sides, parts and labor, for $175. It wasn't worth the 10 hours it was going to take me to do it, especially being that I was going to have to use my torch to heat up the yoke to get the old U-joints out etc. and have a real possibility of breaking something. Basically I did not have the tools to do that job. Those original U-joints were flat stuck when it came to what I had to use to get them out. I picked up the truck this morning and all is well again with it.