Bobcat698

Does anyone have a link to the fix for this? I hear you don't have to buy a new sending unit, just repair with a bolt or something.

Basically the fuel gauge doesn't work anymore.. Its all the way on empty.

I thought there was an article on dodgeram.org but now I can't locate it.

Thanks!

Garrett

moonpie

I second that, if someone knows of said article, mine is doing same thing only on and off. Worst when approaching 1/3 tank.

CSAGrey1

I concur!
I also would like to know if there is a easy fix for this. Mine starts lyig right about 1/2 tank and I am getting tired of listening to that stupid little bell go off everytime it takes notion to slip down below 1/8 tank.

infidel

Repair info here http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel...uel_sender.htm

I'm personally of the opinion that for the $37 it costs for a new sender it's not worth the hassle of digging into the tank for a repair that may not work for long or at all.

Bobcat698

Looks like the guy that wrote one of the articles had no problems in 50K miles.. Also if the new sending unit isn't upgraded its liable to fail again in time.

dezlsmkr

I used those instruction to fix mine that hadn't worked in a year almost and it works now like a top it has been a month or so without a bit of inacuracy.

Bobcat698

I found my problem, and it wasn't even the COMMON one!

My tank has been messed up SO long that the indicator light for low fuel had acutally burned out!

Anyways I dropped the tank yesterday. The module was a MESS.. There are 3 screws that hold the 2 halves of the cartridge together. They weren't really doing anything as the slides had worn, so the bottom half of the cartride was basically hanging almost sideways in the tank.

The reason I had NO reading on my gauge was that one of the wires for the float WASN'T even connected!

I hooked it back up, put washers on the screws, got it set at the correct height, and threw it back together.

Gauge now works like a charm!

Dr. Evil

Never dropped the tank myself. BUT I have info from a very reliable source that sometimes the hinge on that hold the float corredes or falls off. If thats the case, you can drill the holes out where the rod mounts and use some aluminum welding rod to replace the corroded rod.

dawgo1

I concur with infidel, why drop the tank for a repair when you can replace the sender fo under forty bucks! I just did mine saturday, it took me an hour.

NHDiesel

From the looks of the repair, and the reports back from those who have done it, the "repair" is better than just replacing a poorly designed sender with another just like it. I agree, if a redesigned sender that will last longer than the original were only $37, I wouldn't bother repairing the original. On the other hand, if you can improve the sender and make it last longer, I would rather do the mod (and will be, as soon as I have the time to drop the tank)

Jim

infidel

Jim, the newer senders have a different part number.
I assume DC finally upgraded them after thousands of warranty replacements.

NHDiesel

Well I don't know where this $37 sending unit is available from, but my dealer quoted me $304 when I asked for one. So I got online and searched and found this:

FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT, All Models, Diesel Engine 1996 $304.00
Includes Fuel Pump 1994-96.

So I checked Napa, nothing. Then I tried Autozone, and again, nothing. Looks like I'll be doing the repair.

Jim

NHDiesel

Well I think I have my answer. I checked other years, and '97 used a different part number, ,then '98+ used another different partnumber. All of those are around $50. I guess I just happened to get the wrong year truck. Oh well, that $50 would buy me a remote starter/shutdown timer, so I'll do the work then treat myself to a reward afterwards.


Jim

winner172

I no one difference in the 98+ sending unit is range of resistance.
The pre 98 has about a 100 ohm range and the 98+ has about a 200 ohm range.

Rammin On

MOPAR # for the sending unit is 4897670AB