jlipskoc

Lots of $, sweat and wrenchn but I got things back the way they should be.
Found a few preventative problems along the way.

Symptom was rear hopping when empty, only occured when braking and could not feel vibration in the steering. I did feel a vibe in the brake pedal

After a few posts here on DTR, no one seemed to know, so here it is to all you others with problems.

Heres my list of replacment parts, in this order:

1. First I thought was something in the rear

- bad rear pad adjustment, clean, sand shiny parts of pad, nope
- new better rear brake pads, nope didn't fix it.
- new rear brake hardware/springs etc., nope didn't fix it
- new set of drums, nope didn't fix it, took them back.
- new rear differential abs sensor, nope didn't fix it.

2. Ugh, ok, now its to the front.

- front brakes drag after heating up.
- replace with new calipers both sides, bleed good, nope didn't fix it
- replace front brake rubber lines to calipers, nope didn't fix it.
- (brakes release better now, had 174k on original calipers)

3. Now, thinking, not the rotors again, these Napa's rotors only have 30k on them.

- replace both front rotors with new Orielly Auto Parts, wagner rotors
- replace both front hub/bearing with new Orielly 'best they had' bearings
(old bearings from napa were shot again, one had 15k on it, other had 30k,
cheap made in china Napa junk)

Problem fixed, the rotors where the problem.

But along the way, I found a few other issues that needed attention for preventative measures I replaced them.

This is the 3rd time I've don't hub/bearing/rotor pull and assembly, I'm getting dang good at it. 2 hrs both sides. Bad thing is I blew up my oiless 13gal air compressor pulling the studs through, ohwell. time for a bigger oil type 60 gallon!

Word of Advice:
- use tons of antisieze, makes removal so much easier
- use the power steering and a makeshift rod to push the hubs out from the back
- have a shop press to do the studs $89 harbor frieght would have made this go so much faster than air impacting all the studs thru.
- make sure to support the axle after removal of the hub, I jacked up the side I was working on pretty high, so the oil would drain down the axle tube, then i support the axle 'center' with a impact socket. Do this and you won't get seal leakage, or a ruined axle seal.

Let me know if you guys have any questions.

San Felipe Bob

2. Ugh, ok, now its to the front.

- front brakes drag after heating up.
- replace with new calipers both sides, bleed good, nope didn't fix it
- replace front brake rubber lines to calipers, nope didn't fix it.
- (brakes release better now, had 174k on original calipers)

3. Now, thinking, not the rotors again, these Napa's rotors only have 30k on them.

- replace both front rotors with new Orielly Auto Parts, wagner rotors
- replace both front hub/bearing with new Orielly 'best they had' bearings
(old bearings from napa were shot again, one had 15k on it, other had 30k,
cheap made in china Napa junk)

Your rotors probably warped due to the dragging calipers/brakes.
Thats what kept happening to mine.
I found that the caliper pins/bolts were getting gummed up and causing the brakes to drag.
I started re-lubing the caliper bolts and slide / contact points every 1000 miles.
Problem solved!
Keep an eye on those caliper bolts.
Here's a simple test ..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGHd5-j2TQk
Thats how they should spin.
Any slower and your calipers are probably dragging.

Hope this helps

SFB

kawi600

sometimes you can free up the calipers a little by cleaning the pistons and putting a little paraffin lube on them to keep the oil seal moist.
Also inspect the groove in the calipers that the pads ride in. Some of those cheap calipers have uneven grooves that trap the pads and dont let the pad back off from the rotor like it should.
Im doing braided lines, a new master cyl and new calipers soon