12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

Failed emissions - 3 times!

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Old 10-04-2005 | 12:50 PM
  #16  
TreeFarm's Avatar
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From: The South
Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Just trying to save ya some hard earned $....up where I live the Cummins shop rate is $98 an hour..
Or possibly a lot more......

I had coffee with an old friend, this morning. We were talking Dodge diesel trucks and their expenses, when the subject of his old one (a 94, I think) came up. A few years back, somewhere around 125K miles, he had to have the injection pump replaced for big $$$$$. His truck's symptoms, as he described them this morning, match those in the TSB pointed to by the link you posted. Knowing the repairing dealer's ethics, I suspect he was deliberately taken for a ride.

I don't have the heart to tell him.
Old 10-04-2005 | 12:53 PM
  #17  
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From: The Great White North
Good point....dont take it to a dealer. A dealer tech wont have the first clue about the 12V fuel system.

Will take a bit of calling around to find a good mechanic
Old 10-04-2005 | 01:06 PM
  #18  
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From: Colorado
wow,
that really sucks. i guess it might be worth paying that $98/hr if they are honest and know what they are doing? treefarm, did your friend go to a dealer? has anyone heard of Rocky Mnt. Cummins pulling any tricks???
Old 10-04-2005 | 01:12 PM
  #19  
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From: Waddell, AZ
Probaja, run it over to Randy at Reliable Diesel at 3057 E Main Street in Mesa. He'll help you get it to pass.

Arroyojim, Cummins will only set it to spec, they won't advance it. Where is CO are you? Anywhere near Denver?
Old 10-04-2005 | 01:26 PM
  #20  
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From: Colorado
Question

hey fred,
i am near boulder/denver. depends on what part of denver. you know someone there?
Old 10-04-2005 | 01:34 PM
  #21  
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From: The South
Originally Posted by arroyojim
wow,
that really sucks. i guess it might be worth paying that $98/hr if they are honest and know what they are doing? treefarm, did your friend go to a dealer? has anyone heard of Rocky Mnt. Cummins pulling any tricks???
Yes.

Not looking to get sued, so I'll refrain from naming the dealer in public beyond saying they are in rural Florida.
Old 10-04-2005 | 07:43 PM
  #22  
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From: Mesa, AZ
Originally Posted by Fred Swanson
Probaja, run it over to Randy at Reliable Diesel at 3057 E Main Street in Mesa. He'll help you get it to pass.
Thanks for the tip Fred, I'll take it over to Reliable tomorrow! - and thanks to all for your input, this forum is fantastic..........
Old 10-05-2005 | 02:06 AM
  #23  
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From: North Central Arizona
Randy at Reliable Diesel in Mesa. Highly recommended!
Old 10-05-2005 | 12:04 PM
  #24  
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From: Colorado
wastgate actuator stuck?!

hey guys,
i got this piece of advice from another forum:

"Waste Gate - you should be able to manually accuate the rod my hand to see if the valve is stuck."

unless i am just too wimpy, it appears that my wastegate is stuck! can anyne verify this hand test? would it be relatively easy or hard to move? i can't budge it.
Old 10-05-2005 | 01:00 PM
  #25  
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From: Montana
I'm not a wimp and can't move the wastegate by hand, the return spring is very strong. Best way to test is with compressed air to the line from the AFC.
30 psi max or you can blow the diaphragm.
Old 10-05-2005 | 01:25 PM
  #26  
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From: Colorado
thanks infidel,
i was also wondering, just in case it is actually stuck, what it looks like in closed vs open position? i looked at the holset site (http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/trouble.../wastegate.htm)
but can't tell much from those pics. would the dfference even be noticeable?
i just read that the travel is only 1/32".
Old 10-05-2005 | 01:37 PM
  #27  
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From: Montana
Jim, I've never measured the movement but it's much more than 1/32.
Guess it depends on where you measure but the outer edge of the actual gate moves at least an inch. It's rare for one to get stuck anywhere besides totally closed.
Old 10-05-2005 | 01:48 PM
  #28  
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From: Colorado
huh. so the rectangular "lever" that the actuator rod attaches to should be roughly perpendicular to the rod itself in the closed position? that's about where mine is, engine off. does that sound right?
Old 10-05-2005 | 07:11 PM
  #29  
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From: Montana
Originally Posted by arroyojim
huh. so the rectangular "lever" that the actuator rod attaches to should be roughly perpendicular to the rod itself in the closed position? that's about where mine is, engine off. does that sound right?
The lever should be pointing more towards the actuator when the gate is closed. If you don't have compressed air to test it you can sometimes tell by looking at the rod where it goes into the acuator. When the actuator has the gate open the part of the rod close to the actuator looks clean compared to the rest of the rod.
Old 10-06-2005 | 12:10 AM
  #30  
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From: Missoula, Montana
Originally Posted by infidel
People are giving advice on how to pass the test by basically turning your truck into a dog.
Maybe better to address the real problem, low fuel pressure or slipped timing.
I agree with you, but if his tags are due on the 15th (AZ are due either 15 or the 30th) he may not have time right now. If he can get it to pass and have time to properly fix it later it might be more practicle. Like I said if really is smoking that much it doesn't sound right.

Randy
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