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ronnyenns:

To give you some more input here, IMHO, you are on "borrowed time" if you are consistently hitting 1500 degree EGT'S on your truck. As "Stamey" said, not only is it hard on the head, it is REALLY hard on the pistons and the rings.
Also,...another issue not brought up here yet is not only EGT damage, but the damage that can be caused by the high internal "drive pressures" generated by the twin turbos. DTR Member "12 valve" is also right in telling you that your top charger is off it's "map" at that high of a boost level. IMHO, those turbos are "off that map" at about 32 lbs.

Also, the stock intercooler is hurting you alot. When I began the build-up on my 1996 Dodge CTD 12 valve, one of the first things I did was go to an aftermarket intercooler. It dropped the temperatures ALOT, more than you would believe. I would check the temperature of your intercooler at the "cool side" (drivers side of truck) to see how hot it is getting. I know that the stock intercoolers do not have the strength in the side "tanks' to take sustained high boost conditions. Remember, that engine in your truck probably only saw 18-20lbs of boost in stock condition. If that stock turbo does let go, you will risk sending small metal pieces through the intercooler and possibly into the engine!

Hope this info helps you some. I don't want to scare you, but I sure hate to see your engine come apart.

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John_P

 

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Ron:

Here is a link for you on some "Tial Wastegates." I used a 38mm Tial on my 1996 for awhile and it worked very well.

Here is the link:

http://www.import-racer.com/tial

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John_P

 

John_P:
Thanks alot for the info, about the turbo efficiency map, it happened to me once with a aftermarket turbo..it blowed, but the good thing was nothing got into the engine
so what im gonna do now is put on an external wastegate and see how it works then.. hope i can make it work, i checked out your link and it looks pretty good..

Thanks

 

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Ron:

You are very welcome on the information. One other thing I would add is to check your internal drive pressures. You can do that by using a cheap 0-100 air or oil pressure gauge and threading that into your pyrometer hole in the exhaust manifold. At WOT that pressure should be equal to or just slightly higher than your indicated boost pressure. For example, if you see say 60 lbs. of boost pressure, the gauge at the manifold should ideally read 60 lbs. too,
or just somewhat higher. The general rule is that ratio should be "1 to 1".

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John_P