bob95065

I got my 49 state intake and went ahead and got rid of my EGR valve. I made a blanking plate for the exhaust manifold out of a 1/4" steel plate.

When I pulled my manifold off I looked down into the head and saw lots of soot and carbon. There is a small port that has a line attached that leads to the AFC that is blocked.

My truck had grey/white smoke at idle and black smoke between shifts. What does this line to the AFC do? I hope this blocked line is the source of my problems.

The intake I bought had three holes that were drilled and tapped for 1/9" NPT connections. I wasn't thrilled about this when I saw it but now I am happy because I can use one of these ports for a temporary connection to the AFC until I get time to remove my intake manifold and clean out the head properly.

Bob

infidel

A blocked AFC line causes smoke at low rpms by not limiting fueling at low boost.
Fix it.
My bet is the previous owner had a water/meth injection system, hence the tapped airhorn.

bob95065

Yes, I agree that the guy that had the horn before me must have set it up to inject something. It turned out to be to my advantage when I found this problem.

I am going on a 5 day desert camping trip on the 11th so I don't want to tear into my truck too much. It seems to me that I have to remove all the injector lines to get the intake off in order to clean out the intake/head. Is this correct? Is there a post to bleeding the injector lines? It would seem to me that I would crack the lines one at a time and use the starter to bleed them. Eventually the engine should run and I could use the running engine to bleed any remaining lines. Of course I would have to let the starter cool down so I don't burn it up. Is this the way it is done?

infidel

Being in a state of no diesel emissions rules I have no experience at all with EGR but wonder it there is a fuel additive that would make the cleaning simple.

I had a '74 Power Wagon that hadn't been started in six years.
Ran good when parked but ran really bad when I decided to play with it a few weeks ago. Old fuel and deposits were about the only thing I could figure wrong.
I'm not normally a believer in miracle additives but Napa guy recommended Sea Foam poured in the intake.
I was amazed at the results. Within a couple minutes the engine was running like new again.
Impressed I tried it in my '60s model Honda 90 that hardly gets used and had been running badly.
Fixed it right up too.

End sales pitch, give Sea Foam a try.

bob95065

Is it safe to burn in a diesel engine?

What I am planning to do is remove the air horn and intake cover and then use a brush and vacuum to clean out the intake/head. WHen I am satisfied I'll blow out the intake really well with compressed air and put it back together.

How do I get the Sea Foam into my intake once the engine is running again? I guess I could devise some way to use one of my three 1/8" NPT holes in my air horn.

Is my fuel line bleeding method accurate?

Bob

infidel

Label says it is.
I was thinking about how to inject it after posting also. Don't know that I'd want to pour it in the turbo inlet and clean out the innercooler too.
If you had simple means to pump it in the airhorn it would be best but before getting to involved you might want to make sure it doesn't make the engine race out of control.

Usually no need to bleed if it's just the injection lines are removed. It will run funky but will pull out of it in a few seconds. I usually give it quite a bit of throttle after the fuel system has been opened up and never have had to bleed anything.

bob95065

I had a leaking fuel heater and got air in my system. The engine ran rough until I bled the lines one at a time with the engine running.

I think if I do a good job with the brush and compressed air I won't have to use the Sea Foam. I don't want to risk over revving my engine. The secondary benefit is I won't have that soot garbage sucked into my combustion chambers and through my turbo vanes.

I can give the heat a thorough cleaning in the parts washer if and when I ever need to do a head gasket.

esde

I started to do the same egr removal last night. I pulled the egr valve and tube, and made a block off plate for the exhaust side. When I went to replace the california intake with the 49 state one, I found 2 differences and was wondering if I possibly had the wrong part? The california intake mounts with 2 long and 2 short bolts, the new 49 state one uses all short bolts. And the angle where it connects to the inter cooler seems to be off a bit. It was getting late so I cracked another beer and put the tools away.. anyone know if this looks like the right or wrong part?

bob95065

What year is your truck? Is it a 1st gen?

esde

I feel stupid for not posting that info.. My truck is a 98 12 valve, the intake I got to install was out of a 96 12 valve 3500.

Crimedog

esde, that almost looks like a 24V air horn but I may be wrong (perhaps they switched earlier?). My 94 mounts with the 2 long and 2 short like you mentioned. I also have an extra bolt that goes through a "wing" on the air horn, extending towards the front of the engine and securing to the intake manifold plate.

If it mounts up fine and the intercooler pipe doesn't get in the way I don't see any issue with running it, though.

bob95065

That doesn't look like a 12v 49 state intake to me either.

I don't know what the 24v intake looks like.

Take a look at the underhood picture in this auction to see a 49 state air horn for a 12v engine: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge...fCarsQ5fTrucks

esde

Looks like the part I bought was mis represented, and me being new to the cummins didn't know any better. Thanks for the help, back to finding the right part.