doing basic mods to 12v for reliability and mileage
10-01-2006, 04:21 AM
#17
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thanks for the help!
going to order a TST kit right away. I prefer using a real gasket too. much less risk of leaking.
I've got all type of starett and mitutoyo dial indicators. would that not work to find correct height to set timing?
would rather not have to buy any specialty tools, unless there is no way around it.
going to order a TST kit right away. I prefer using a real gasket too. much less risk of leaking.
I've got all type of starett and mitutoyo dial indicators. would that not work to find correct height to set timing?
would rather not have to buy any specialty tools, unless there is no way around it.
On the KDP, I used the TST kit, which is great, but I suggest you use a timing cover gasket from Cummins, at first I used the gray silicone in the kit and it leaked so I added the cover gasket.
Here is the link for the timing instructions, also do a search on this forum for “timing” you’ll get great tips and info:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm
and for a timing chart:
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechPTiming.htm
A timing tool kit is available from SPX Miller or Snap On, you can do with less, but the kit is well worth it in my opinion, I got the Miller kit ($300). I just set my timing today, two most important tips, clean the crap out of the timing gear and the shaft with contact cleaner, any oil film that remains on the gear or shaft will cause your timing to slip, and the engine baring tool is your best friend, other than that instructions are pretty clear. Oh, if you are doing your KDP fix, you may want to do the timing at the same time, it is way easier when the timing cover is off.
Here is the link for the timing instructions, also do a search on this forum for “timing” you’ll get great tips and info:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm
and for a timing chart:
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechPTiming.htm
A timing tool kit is available from SPX Miller or Snap On, you can do with less, but the kit is well worth it in my opinion, I got the Miller kit ($300). I just set my timing today, two most important tips, clean the crap out of the timing gear and the shaft with contact cleaner, any oil film that remains on the gear or shaft will cause your timing to slip, and the engine baring tool is your best friend, other than that instructions are pretty clear. Oh, if you are doing your KDP fix, you may want to do the timing at the same time, it is way easier when the timing cover is off.
10-01-2006, 10:55 AM
#18
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thanks for the help!
going to order a TST kit right away. I prefer using a real gasket too. much less risk of leaking.
I've got all type of starett and mitutoyo dial indicators. would that not work to find correct height to set timing?
would rather not have to buy any specialty tools, unless there is no way around it.
going to order a TST kit right away. I prefer using a real gasket too. much less risk of leaking.
I've got all type of starett and mitutoyo dial indicators. would that not work to find correct height to set timing?
would rather not have to buy any specialty tools, unless there is no way around it.
what i did and i have NO LEAKS, is tighten all of the bolts to 18 foot lbs, i know it sounds like a little bit of tq only, but i did them all just the same and i used that mega grey gasket maker, i let it skin for a few mins, then i put the cover on, bolted it up, did the above, and have had no leaks...
RIck
10-01-2006, 01:27 PM
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18 ft lb is listed for gear cover housing bolts in the haynes manual. hope that the correct listing. can't wait to find a real factory service manual.
changing topic a little... I've read that some folks are changing out to hydralic oil, instead of std transmission fluid. Is this correct for a 12v CTD auto?
finally found the aftermarket drain plug for trans pan at NAPA. headed that way to pick up. along with a rubber gsk for transmission pan.
Autozone had the cheapest price for a quality fan belt at $24. Goodyear Gatorback.
just installed a K&N air filter. fuel and oil filters are next.
yanked the front wheel off and checked for brake pad thickness. which looked new. one less thing to do. got to yank down rear brakes to check for thickness.
can't wait for parts to come in for KDP fix, will advance timing to 16 degree while it's all apart. looks like I'll be grinding to spec's for a 100 plate too.
ran into a 94 4x4 CTD atuo owner at truck stop today. naturally I asked what mileage he's getting. replied consistantly 21 mpg mostly in town driving. sometimes high as 22 mpg. he stated that he drives smooth as possible.
kinda of concerned about what extra HP is going to do to my tranny?
changing topic a little... I've read that some folks are changing out to hydralic oil, instead of std transmission fluid. Is this correct for a 12v CTD auto?
finally found the aftermarket drain plug for trans pan at NAPA. headed that way to pick up. along with a rubber gsk for transmission pan.
Autozone had the cheapest price for a quality fan belt at $24. Goodyear Gatorback.
just installed a K&N air filter. fuel and oil filters are next.
yanked the front wheel off and checked for brake pad thickness. which looked new. one less thing to do. got to yank down rear brakes to check for thickness.
can't wait for parts to come in for KDP fix, will advance timing to 16 degree while it's all apart. looks like I'll be grinding to spec's for a 100 plate too.
ran into a 94 4x4 CTD atuo owner at truck stop today. naturally I asked what mileage he's getting. replied consistantly 21 mpg mostly in town driving. sometimes high as 22 mpg. he stated that he drives smooth as possible.
kinda of concerned about what extra HP is going to do to my tranny?
No need to spend the money
what i did and i have NO LEAKS, is tighten all of the bolts to 18 foot lbs, i know it sounds like a little bit of tq only, but i did them all just the same and i used that mega grey gasket maker, i let it skin for a few mins, then i put the cover on, bolted it up, did the above, and have had no leaks...
RIck
what i did and i have NO LEAKS, is tighten all of the bolts to 18 foot lbs, i know it sounds like a little bit of tq only, but i did them all just the same and i used that mega grey gasket maker, i let it skin for a few mins, then i put the cover on, bolted it up, did the above, and have had no leaks...
RIck
10-01-2006, 03:00 PM
#20
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18 ft lb is listed for gear cover housing bolts in the haynes manual. hope that the correct listing. can't wait to find a real factory service manual.
changing topic a little... I've read that some folks are changing out to hydralic oil, instead of std transmission fluid. Is this correct for a 12v CTD auto?
finally found the aftermarket drain plug for trans pan at NAPA. headed that way to pick up. along with a rubber gsk for transmission pan.
Autozone had the cheapest price for a quality fan belt at $24. Goodyear Gatorback.
just installed a K&N air filter. fuel and oil filters are next.
yanked the front wheel off and checked for brake pad thickness. which looked new. one less thing to do. got to yank down rear brakes to check for thickness.
can't wait for parts to come in for KDP fix, will advance timing to 16 degree while it's all apart. looks like I'll be grinding to spec's for a 100 plate too.
ran into a 94 4x4 CTD atuo owner at truck stop today. naturally I asked what mileage he's getting. replied consistantly 21 mpg mostly in town driving. sometimes high as 22 mpg. he stated that he drives smooth as possible.
kinda of concerned about what extra HP is going to do to my tranny?
changing topic a little... I've read that some folks are changing out to hydralic oil, instead of std transmission fluid. Is this correct for a 12v CTD auto?
finally found the aftermarket drain plug for trans pan at NAPA. headed that way to pick up. along with a rubber gsk for transmission pan.
Autozone had the cheapest price for a quality fan belt at $24. Goodyear Gatorback.
just installed a K&N air filter. fuel and oil filters are next.
yanked the front wheel off and checked for brake pad thickness. which looked new. one less thing to do. got to yank down rear brakes to check for thickness.
can't wait for parts to come in for KDP fix, will advance timing to 16 degree while it's all apart. looks like I'll be grinding to spec's for a 100 plate too.
ran into a 94 4x4 CTD atuo owner at truck stop today. naturally I asked what mileage he's getting. replied consistantly 21 mpg mostly in town driving. sometimes high as 22 mpg. he stated that he drives smooth as possible.
kinda of concerned about what extra HP is going to do to my tranny?
I wouldnt worry much about ur trans...
unless u hotrod the heck outta the truck daily, with the mods in my sig, i drove with a stock clutch about 25K miles, and killed another stocker in less than 12K miles too, i now have a valair inc, and no more clutch problems. The KDP is alot of fun to do, have a buddy with ya it helps, if u do a search ull read on a thread i started when i killed my KDP. Anyways, 18 ft lbs is correct, i did some research on here, and the haynes manual says the same, i did tighten them to that and had no issues with anything else..
Just keep up with ur truck on wear and tear and ull be alright, before u do put in that 100 tho, GET SOME GAUGES.. a pyro at the very least, i have a boost and FP as well, and it feels really good to know whats goin on with that engine as well..
22 MPG with a 94? i get that on the highway with mine, with the speedo at 65 mph (verified at 70 mph with a gps tho due to large tires) so its about right...
Good luck with the new find!
Rick
10-01-2006, 03:46 PM
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OK, thanks... 18ftlbs it is for timing case. with grey permatex make a gasket. or what ever comes in the kit.
went ahead and purchased 4 qts +3 tranny fluid to be safe. along with a rubber transmission pan gasket from NAPA. I'll be adjusting bands while I'm in there.
what else should I do while transmission drain pan is off?
here's pic of new drain plug from NAPA to assist someone else to find.
note little magnet added to end of new pug. didn't really need to, but used super glue to stay put.
went ahead and purchased 4 qts +3 tranny fluid to be safe. along with a rubber transmission pan gasket from NAPA. I'll be adjusting bands while I'm in there.
what else should I do while transmission drain pan is off?
here's pic of new drain plug from NAPA to assist someone else to find.
note little magnet added to end of new pug. didn't really need to, but used super glue to stay put.
10-01-2006, 04:36 PM
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If you have the money I would sugest a new VB for your tranny. DTT and Groend both make good ones for under $500. It will help out the durability and feel of your tranny. Beyond that I can't make any suggestions as to the auto.
10-01-2006, 11:31 PM
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Cup smoothie? Where does this thing attach? I assume they are referring to the center console; does it hang off the front? Their description makes it sound like it fits inside the center console.
I had to laugh when I saw it, just last night my wife and I had an incident with the cup holder and a smoothie. Man, whoever designed the cup holder in this thing should have been shot!
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....-SMOOTHIE-9497
I had to laugh when I saw it, just last night my wife and I had an incident with the cup holder and a smoothie. Man, whoever designed the cup holder in this thing should have been shot!
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo....-SMOOTHIE-9497
I'd also add:
-gauges
-upgraded starter contacts
-check/inspect boot to fuel control solenoid
-Ditto DSS
-3k GSK
-Governor spring kit. This will make towing above 2200rpms possible. Given your stated needs the 3k should be enough.
-if hard start issue starts-replace fuel supply/return and soft line to lift pump with marine grade diesel fuel line
-cup smoothie from www.genosgarage.com
-gauges
http://fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
www.sourceautomotive.biz
www.piersdiesel.com
-gauges
-upgraded starter contacts
-check/inspect boot to fuel control solenoid
-Ditto DSS
-3k GSK
-Governor spring kit. This will make towing above 2200rpms possible. Given your stated needs the 3k should be enough.
-if hard start issue starts-replace fuel supply/return and soft line to lift pump with marine grade diesel fuel line
-cup smoothie from www.genosgarage.com
-gauges
http://fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
www.sourceautomotive.biz
www.piersdiesel.com
10-02-2006, 08:53 AM
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10-02-2006, 10:06 AM
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thanks for the help!!!
barring tool is available from dealer for $35, but delivery valve socket is $100 from dealer. need to call up miller for pricing.
I've got a full machine shop at home, so fabing an adapter for dial indicator will be no problem.
I need a new drain plug anyways
barring tool is available from dealer for $35, but delivery valve socket is $100 from dealer. need to call up miller for pricing.
I've got a full machine shop at home, so fabing an adapter for dial indicator will be no problem.
I need a new drain plug anyways
You don’t have to buy the timing kit, the only special tool you absolutely have to have is the Delivery Valve socket ($30-50, from Miller, SnapOn, or PDR), don’t try to remove the DV without it. If you don’t want to buy the dial indicator holder that screws into the DV, you can make one from an old oil pan drain plug, same thread, just drill a couple of holes (search the site for instructions). Any dial indicator, with proper extension, will work. Also any puller with the proper bolts will work. You can do without the baring tool, and turn the engine by the alternator bolt and damper bold, however I can tell you from experience the baring tool makes it much, much easier, with that tool you have such good leverage and control you can turn the engine one degree at a time.
10-02-2006, 11:20 AM
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A DV socket from PDR is $30, I think its the cheapes.
Take a look at their price list:
*** ET9166 High Flow Delivery Valve Socket $30.00 ****
http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeUSPrice.htm
Take a look at their price list:
*** ET9166 High Flow Delivery Valve Socket $30.00 ****
http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeUSPrice.htm
10-02-2006, 02:05 PM
#29
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thanks, just called PDR up and DV socket is $30 + $11 shipping. so gotta figure out what else I need.
just finished installing a new filter, installing drain plug and filling up tranny with 7 quarts of valvoline ATF +4 synthetic tranny fluid. shifting fine...
installed a new K & N fliter and new fan belt.
anyone else using a Haynes manual. Warning: transmission band spec's are wrong for 1997.
loads more to go...
just finished installing a new filter, installing drain plug and filling up tranny with 7 quarts of valvoline ATF +4 synthetic tranny fluid. shifting fine...
installed a new K & N fliter and new fan belt.
anyone else using a Haynes manual. Warning: transmission band spec's are wrong for 1997.
loads more to go...
A DV socket from PDR is $30, I think its the cheapes.
Take a look at their price list:
*** ET9166 High Flow Delivery Valve Socket $30.00 ****
http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeUSPrice.htm
Take a look at their price list:
*** ET9166 High Flow Delivery Valve Socket $30.00 ****
http://www.piersdiesel.com/DodgeUSPrice.htm
10-15-2006, 05:04 PM
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update... Killed my KDP and figured out fuel tank was leaking due to large screw on cap was not tight. so I was losing several gallons when fill to full.
calculated mileage today after a short 150 mile road trip going 68 mph.
WOO HOO... a bonified 22 mpg
that's 147 miles using 6.7 gal filled up to filler neck before and after.
have not advanced my timing yet. hoping to pick up another 1-2 mpg.
calculated mileage today after a short 150 mile road trip going 68 mph.
WOO HOO... a bonified 22 mpg
that's 147 miles using 6.7 gal filled up to filler neck before and after.
have not advanced my timing yet. hoping to pick up another 1-2 mpg.