doing basic mods to 12v for reliability and mileage
09-30-2006, 09:18 AM
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doing basic mods to 12v for reliability and mileage
doing basic mods to 12v for reliability and mileage.
just got a 97 CTD 12v 4x4 auto with 96k miles and getting my feet wet.
here's what I'm planning on doing so far. need to know what the best place to purchase parts and links to find instructions.
let me know if I'm missing anything. thanks,
1. dowl pin in timing cover issue needs to fixed. planning on ordering TST's dowl pin fix kit with instuctions.
2. all filters and fluids will be changed.
3. timing will be advanced to 16.5 degrees. what special tools will I need for this job and best instruction link? possibly grinding plate for mild HP increase.
4. what value body kit should be considered for the auto trans? sometimes it's hesitating to shifting into drive. if you shift into low, then up. it works everytime. once in drive it shifts hard and works perfect.
5. going thru all bearing, Ujoints, anything servicable and repack with grease.
6. just got front end aligned and checked. all ball joint, tie rod ends etc are in excellent condition.
7. what's the best source for a factory workshop manual? anyone have a 97 service manual they are not using for sale?
just got a 97 CTD 12v 4x4 auto with 96k miles and getting my feet wet.
here's what I'm planning on doing so far. need to know what the best place to purchase parts and links to find instructions.
let me know if I'm missing anything. thanks,
1. dowl pin in timing cover issue needs to fixed. planning on ordering TST's dowl pin fix kit with instuctions.
2. all filters and fluids will be changed.
3. timing will be advanced to 16.5 degrees. what special tools will I need for this job and best instruction link? possibly grinding plate for mild HP increase.
4. what value body kit should be considered for the auto trans? sometimes it's hesitating to shifting into drive. if you shift into low, then up. it works everytime. once in drive it shifts hard and works perfect.
5. going thru all bearing, Ujoints, anything servicable and repack with grease.
6. just got front end aligned and checked. all ball joint, tie rod ends etc are in excellent condition.
7. what's the best source for a factory workshop manual? anyone have a 97 service manual they are not using for sale?
09-30-2006, 10:18 AM
#2
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the overflow valve is often sited as a potential problem and is easy to change
consider adding a DSS steering stabilizer. i love mine
otherwise sounds like you don't have too much to worry about
maybe try running some biodiesel if it's not too cold where you live. i run B100 when it's above 35F. it adds lubricity and there are enviro/economic benefits as well. check out the fuels forum and other web sites for more info
consider adding a DSS steering stabilizer. i love mine
otherwise sounds like you don't have too much to worry about
maybe try running some biodiesel if it's not too cold where you live. i run B100 when it's above 35F. it adds lubricity and there are enviro/economic benefits as well. check out the fuels forum and other web sites for more info
09-30-2006, 02:19 PM
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I'd also add:
-gauges
-upgraded starter contacts
-check/inspect boot to fuel control solenoid
-Ditto DSS
-3k GSK
-Governor spring kit. This will make towing above 2200rpms possible. Given your stated needs the 3k should be enough.
-if hard start issue starts-replace fuel supply/return and soft line to lift pump with marine grade diesel fuel line
-cup smoothie from www.genosgarage.com
-gauges
http://fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
www.sourceautomotive.biz
www.piersdiesel.com
-gauges
-upgraded starter contacts
-check/inspect boot to fuel control solenoid
-Ditto DSS
-3k GSK
-Governor spring kit. This will make towing above 2200rpms possible. Given your stated needs the 3k should be enough.
-if hard start issue starts-replace fuel supply/return and soft line to lift pump with marine grade diesel fuel line
-cup smoothie from www.genosgarage.com
-gauges
http://fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
www.sourceautomotive.biz
www.piersdiesel.com
09-30-2006, 03:30 PM
#6
Registered User
I'd also add:
-gauges
-upgraded starter contacts
-check/inspect boot to fuel control solenoid
-Ditto DSS
-3k GSK
-Governor spring kit. This will make towing above 2200rpms possible. Given your stated needs the 3k should be enough.
-if hard start issue starts-replace fuel supply/return and soft line to lift pump with marine grade diesel fuel line
-cup smoothie from www.genosgarage.com
-gauges
http://fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
www.sourceautomotive.biz
www.piersdiesel.com
-gauges
-upgraded starter contacts
-check/inspect boot to fuel control solenoid
-Ditto DSS
-3k GSK
-Governor spring kit. This will make towing above 2200rpms possible. Given your stated needs the 3k should be enough.
-if hard start issue starts-replace fuel supply/return and soft line to lift pump with marine grade diesel fuel line
-cup smoothie from www.genosgarage.com
-gauges
http://fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
www.sourceautomotive.biz
www.piersdiesel.com
I most certainly agree,
since i have most of those mods anyways, Go ahead and change out that stock fuel plate as well. A 10 is the best all around, and combined with that GSK, wow!! itll feel like u have a totally different truck...
Rick
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09-30-2006, 04:35 PM
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Yeah, the auto transmission is a little weak in my opinion, but i'm about to have it swapped out within the next two or three months!
ext cab, 8ft box, bed liner, tool box, tonneau cover, plow...let's just say i'm glowing when i drive it
ext cab, 8ft box, bed liner, tool box, tonneau cover, plow...let's just say i'm glowing when i drive it
09-30-2006, 06:41 PM
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Rick is right, as usual. I have the 100 and love it, but a 10 would probally be better suited for you. It is still something you could grind yourself, many have made their own 10. A plate and GSK really do change the truck, for the better. Especially in the smaller pumped autos.
09-30-2006, 10:01 PM
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thanks,,,, does anyone have the links on how to grind a #10 plate?
is this the correct link to GSK parts/instructions? http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm
is this the correct link to GSK parts/instructions? http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechGSK12V.htm
Rick is right, as usual. I have the 100 and love it, but a 10 would probally be better suited for you. It is still something you could grind yourself, many have made their own 10. A plate and GSK really do change the truck, for the better. Especially in the smaller pumped autos.
09-30-2006, 10:50 PM
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That is the right instructions. Here is a link on how to shim it with washers...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=free+GSK
Here is a pic of the most common plate profiles. I ground mine with my angle grinder. If you want I could do yours for a few beverages
Not while I'm doing the work
PM me if you want...
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...light=free+GSK
Here is a pic of the most common plate profiles. I ground mine with my angle grinder. If you want I could do yours for a few beverages
Not while I'm doing the work PM me if you want...
09-30-2006, 10:55 PM
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On the KDP, I used the TST kit, which is great, but I suggest you use a timing cover gasket from Cummins, at first I used the gray silicone in the kit and it leaked so I added the cover gasket.
Here is the link for the timing instructions, also do a search on this forum for “timing” you’ll get great tips and info:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm
and for a timing chart:
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechPTiming.htm
A timing tool kit is available from SPX Miller or Snap On, you can do with less, but the kit is well worth it in my opinion, I got the Miller kit ($300). I just set my timing today, two most important tips, clean the crap out of the timing gear and the shaft with contact cleaner, any oil film that remains on the gear or shaft will cause your timing to slip, and the engine baring tool is your best friend, other than that instructions are pretty clear. Oh, if you are doing your KDP fix, you may want to do the timing at the same time, it is way easier when the timing cover is off.
Here is the link for the timing instructions, also do a search on this forum for “timing” you’ll get great tips and info:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1994/18-10-94a.htm
and for a timing chart:
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechPTiming.htm
A timing tool kit is available from SPX Miller or Snap On, you can do with less, but the kit is well worth it in my opinion, I got the Miller kit ($300). I just set my timing today, two most important tips, clean the crap out of the timing gear and the shaft with contact cleaner, any oil film that remains on the gear or shaft will cause your timing to slip, and the engine baring tool is your best friend, other than that instructions are pretty clear. Oh, if you are doing your KDP fix, you may want to do the timing at the same time, it is way easier when the timing cover is off.
10-01-2006, 12:01 AM
#15
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Auto trans is a good idea to replace. The stock convertor isnt really that good and eventually it shreds itself even at stock power levels.
Trackbar will eventually be a problem. might consider a luke's link, or a thuren bar, or the solidsteel.biz 2003(?) OEM trackbar conversion. If you find any of the steering linkage joints need replacing, like the tie rod ends or pitman arm, you can repair those with luke's links and save a bunch of $$$. Good stuff IMO.
Id jack up the front end one side at a time and wiggle the wheels back and forth to check the wheel hubs for play (friend just got towed home tonight with a hub that fell apart on him).
The DSS is a good idea to keep the shaft on the gearbox from taking a load when steering / hitting bumps.
Keep an eye on the hoses that connect the metal lines to the pump and filter on the drivers side of the engine compartment. Maybe keep spares with you so if they crack youre not stranded. Check the fuel line that goes from the big banjo on the side of the pump. youll want to see a metal line with a section of stainless braid in the middle to avoid vibration fatigue (dont ask how I know that one)
If you live someplace where road salt is used, maybe poke around and see if you can clean up whats there so it doesnt become a major mess. POR makes some stuff that preps rusty metal for painting and it seems to keep the rust at bay inside areas you cant reach like doors, bed wheelhouses and all that. Drill drainage holes in the bottoms of the doors and rocker panels.
blow the crud out of the area where the lower tie-down anchors are in the bed with compressed air so it doesnt trap moisture.
blow all the sand and crud out of the front cab supports. you may want to drill large holes to let the stuff fall out properly. It rots out real bad otherwise.
Trackbar will eventually be a problem. might consider a luke's link, or a thuren bar, or the solidsteel.biz 2003(?) OEM trackbar conversion. If you find any of the steering linkage joints need replacing, like the tie rod ends or pitman arm, you can repair those with luke's links and save a bunch of $$$. Good stuff IMO.
Id jack up the front end one side at a time and wiggle the wheels back and forth to check the wheel hubs for play (friend just got towed home tonight with a hub that fell apart on him).
The DSS is a good idea to keep the shaft on the gearbox from taking a load when steering / hitting bumps.
Keep an eye on the hoses that connect the metal lines to the pump and filter on the drivers side of the engine compartment. Maybe keep spares with you so if they crack youre not stranded. Check the fuel line that goes from the big banjo on the side of the pump. youll want to see a metal line with a section of stainless braid in the middle to avoid vibration fatigue (dont ask how I know that one)
If you live someplace where road salt is used, maybe poke around and see if you can clean up whats there so it doesnt become a major mess. POR makes some stuff that preps rusty metal for painting and it seems to keep the rust at bay inside areas you cant reach like doors, bed wheelhouses and all that. Drill drainage holes in the bottoms of the doors and rocker panels.
blow the crud out of the area where the lower tie-down anchors are in the bed with compressed air so it doesnt trap moisture.
blow all the sand and crud out of the front cab supports. you may want to drill large holes to let the stuff fall out properly. It rots out real bad otherwise.