Dodge D60 Axle Shaft SEALS Part#
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Dodge D60 Axle Shaft SEALS Part#
I cannot find the part number for a front axle seal on my 98 2500 Dodge with the (weak) Dana 60.
My passenger side seal is leaking.. Every parts store I call only lists them for a Dana 44.. When did they put a Dana 44 under a 2500 Dodge???
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Garrett
My passenger side seal is leaking.. Every parts store I call only lists them for a Dana 44.. When did they put a Dana 44 under a 2500 Dodge???
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Garrett
#3
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Last time I worked on a 60 Napa gave me the wrong seal, not sure what it was meant to fit. They then asked me the width of the brake pads and diameter of the drums, then proceeded to pull out the right $7 seal.
Sorry, didn't keep the p/n.
Sorry, didn't keep the p/n.
#4
Originally Posted by infidel
Last time I worked on a 60 Napa gave me the wrong seal, not sure what it was meant to fit. They then asked me the width of the brake pads and diameter of the drums, then proceeded to pull out the right $7 seal.
Sorry, didn't keep the p/n.
Sorry, didn't keep the p/n.
#5
Passenger side on my 96 is leaking also. I figger'd I'd give it a try at replacing the seal so I picked up 2 last week in case I messed 1 of 'em up; part #4506005. I'd sure like to here some tips on this job from some experienced members. I have a 95 shop manual & asked a wrench at the dodge store. He says to pull the disconnect and have at it. I don't have the mope tool but was thinkin' I could finesse it with some all-thread & other pieces of bench stock. Any info would be appreciated.
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Seems that all drivetrain stuff is like that. I found its easier to tell them that you have a 1 ton. Most of the stuff is the same and it weeds out alot of the stuff for the 3/4 ton gassers at the same time.
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Originally Posted by New_Member
Passenger side on my 96 is leaking also. I figger'd I'd give it a try at replacing the seal so I picked up 2 last week in case I messed 1 of 'em up; part #4506005. I'd sure like to here some tips on this job from some experienced members. I have a 95 shop manual & asked a wrench at the dodge store. He says to pull the disconnect and have at it. I don't have the mope tool but was thinkin' I could finesse it with some all-thread & other pieces of bench stock. Any info would be appreciated.
http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm
You hit the nail on the head about the all-thread
BTW, are you a "NEW_MEMBER" ??
I will be fixing mine saturday.
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Originally Posted by northslope
Make sure you check your axle vent. Up here in the super wet evironment the vent hole rusts shut, I take'em out and drill an 1/8" hole in'em so they can breathe , good luck
#10
Yeah, I be a New Member !!! I've hung-out at the MOPARTS tech board for the last 3-4 years (Dallas page before that). 15-20 years ago I did late model shivvy trux then went to muscle mopes. Getting back into late model stuff now. I was commenting to 1 of my buyers that had there been more CTD's back then ........... Man I really like this truck!!!! Thanx for the vent hole thought, I'll check that tomorrow. I was hoping that this site would be full of good quick info, and it is. I really appreciate the help.
#11
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Beforehand make sure your differential isn't overfull.
3/4" below the bottom of the fill plug is the Dana recommended level in your owner's manual.
Nine out ten trucks I've worked on with leaking front seals were filled to the bottom of the plug, about one and a half quarts overfull. All have stopped leaking after drained to the proper level. It will sometimes take 500 or more miles for oil trapped in the axle tube to completely drain out. Have patience, most times seal replacement is unnecessary.
3/4" below the bottom of the fill plug is the Dana recommended level in your owner's manual.
Nine out ten trucks I've worked on with leaking front seals were filled to the bottom of the plug, about one and a half quarts overfull. All have stopped leaking after drained to the proper level. It will sometimes take 500 or more miles for oil trapped in the axle tube to completely drain out. Have patience, most times seal replacement is unnecessary.
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The thing is, I haven't touched the differential in about 4,000 miles, and all of a sudden the fluid starts leaking out. I had them add some fluid when I had the tires put on and they filled it to the brim while on the lift, and the fluid immediately came out the right side.
Still think its over full?
Still think its over full?
#13
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Originally Posted by Bobcat698
The thing is, I haven't touched the differential in about 4,000 miles, and all of a sudden the fluid starts leaking out. I had them add some fluid when I had the tires put on and they filled it to the brim while on the lift, and the fluid immediately came out the right side.
Still think its over full?
Still think its over full?
My bet is that it will correct the problem.
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Originally Posted by infidel
It certainly wouldn't hurt to drain it down to the correct level before going though the hassle of replacing the seal.
My bet is that it will correct the problem.
My bet is that it will correct the problem.
Should I do it all at once or just leave the seal be?
Bear in mind that I have pulled the axle shafts out quite a few times while screwing with the brakes and u joints..
#15
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Originally Posted by Bobcat698
I am doing wheel bearings on Saturday.
Should I do it all at once or just leave the seal be?
Bear in mind that I have pulled the axle shafts out quite a few times while screwing with the brakes and u joints..
Should I do it all at once or just leave the seal be?
Bear in mind that I have pulled the axle shafts out quite a few times while screwing with the brakes and u joints..
I think you're the only one who can answer that one.
My feeling is most front seals are replaced needlessly when the only problem is overfill or oil that has leaked past the seal while the axle is out or sitting cockeyed when the rotor has been removed.
If you use anti-seize on the axle shaft so that pulling the bearing off is no big deal you really aren't saving much time if you have to come back later if the seal continues to leak.