delivery valves
#1
delivery valves
just wanted to say hi to everyone, and how great this site is. Ok, down to business, i have the 370 marine injectors and delivery valves, retimed to 16 degrees, #10 fuel plate full forward, and blocked wastegate, and i was wondering about changing out delivery valves. I still have a horrible stutter at 1200 rpms and was possibly looking into laser cut delivery valves, will this possibly stop the stutter? Is there a big difference in flow between the two. If I get the delivery valves and they don't stop the stutter, i will give up the 370's and go back to stock. just want opinions before i drop the 300 bucks on new delivery valves, thanks guys.
#3
Originally Posted by Willy91
Lazer cuts are a prety big upgrade from 191's, if they don't fix your stutter i don't think anything will.
that's pretty much what i thought too. i'm probably gonna throw down the dough for laser cuts. who makes the best delivery valves? price to performance? thanks guys, i appreciate the help.
#4
You ca see my sig. I have never had a studder. i am timed at 17.5* and have a 4k gsk. Even when I had the 167 dvs and 300 injectors I never had a studder, it was still timed at 17.5. I am thinking it may be something deeper. What plate do you have? Do you have a gsk? Have you messed with the star wheel?
#5
Originally Posted by hotmopr
You ca see my sig. I have never had a studder. i am timed at 17.5* and have a 4k gsk. Even when I had the 167 dvs and 300 injectors I never had a studder, it was still timed at 17.5. I am thinking it may be something deeper. What plate do you have? Do you have a gsk? Have you messed with the star wheel?
yes, i have a plate, it is a #10 and is moved all the way forward. the starwheel is maxed out, and afc housing is full forward as well. maybe i need to adjust the governor arm, i haven't messed with that. is there a post on how to adjust it? the truck pulls hard, it's not like i don't have a lot of power, its just down low it runs rough. maybe a little bit more advanced timing will help, mine is at 16.0, but with stock head gasket and over 220,000 on the ticker, i don't really want to pour gasoline on the fire i am already playing with . i don't have a gsk yet, might have to invest in one, isn't there a washer kit that does the same thing(could someone point me to the right post, i would appreciate it) you guys are a great help, thanks a lot.
#6
I'd deffinently adjust the govener arm before you do anything else. Heres the free GSK https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=93017 it will deffinently help you alot.
#7
Originally Posted by marine4life
a little bit more advanced timing will help, mine is at 16.0, but with stock head gasket and over 220,000 on the ticker, i don't really want to pour gasoline on the fire i am already playing with . i
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#8
Originally Posted by hotmopr
Didnt you read my signature??? read closely Dont see any studs or orings there 210,000..knock on wood
#10
#13
has anyone ever done a dyno run to see the diffrence laser cuts make? I know that they are not actually laser cut cuz it's impossible to laser cut on an angle. all they do is grind off the coller on the dv. But im curious to know what the gain is of a laser cut over a 191 or an 022 stock bosch part, cuz I was told that over a certain rpm they dont even come into play due to how fast the pump is turning.
#15
try backing up on your fuel plate and AFC before you adjust the govenor arm. Bring the plate to the arm then try the afc about a 1/4 past original postion and bring the starwheel back until you have about 3 seconds of smoke on the low end then clears up, and see if that helps your stumble. When I try to run everything full forward it pops and stumbles like it has bad timing but when I tried different positions it smoothed out, might just be giving it to much and it can't handle it at that rpm.