Captain

I just got my truck running again for the first time really in 7months. I junked the 6speed and put the 5speed back in. 5 speed is freshly rebuilt and I have a fully splined mainshaft and larger input shaft. I'm running a 3600# 12CB spring loaded DD from SBC. When shifting you have to hold it against the next gear for a second or 2 befor it will go in. Dosent grind but its certinally not smooth or fast. Do new DD clutches have a slow release or something untill they break in? or can it be the new syncros? Sometimes at a light when I clutch and put it in gear the truck kind of jumps so it makes me think its the clutch. I followed the directions (against my better judgement) and removed the spacer behind the pivot ball for the clutch for to "give it more room" I have the upgraded hydrolics and they are set to maximum travel. Anymore and it bottoms out the mastercylinder befor the pedel its the floor.
Thanks

LAWN GUY

i dont have the answer to your question, but i have a question why did you junk the six speed? thinking of getting one just trying to make the right decision!

Captain

Long story short. well over 10000$ 3 rebuilds 7 months and the truck sat in the driveway. there really not much if any stronger then a built up 5speed according to reliable sorces. much heavy, more expensive, hard to rebuild yada yada. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=157318 heres a post on it for a full read. if you have further questions just ask.

LAWN GUY

what is the cost of a well built 5 sp looking at around $1400-$1500 for used 6sp friend has dd out of his 04 w/ flywheel for $800. truck is my every day work truck though i do like to have fun once in awhile.

allisfarmer

my dd made my shifting alittle bit notchy but not too bad i changed my tranny oil and put lucas oil stablizer in it that helped alittle

HOHN

The shifting is notchier because the clutch is heavier. Think about it, when you shift from one gear to another, the clutch has to change speeds from one gear to the next. The synchros make this happen.

So when the clutch is heavier, the sychros have to do more work to change the speed of the clutch with more rotational inertia.

If you have a lube with less slipperiness, the sychros will get better "bite" and it will shift smoother.

But..they synchros will wear faster.


That's one of the reasons I went with a single and not a DD clutch was the weight and how that increases sychro wear and tear.

Justin

Hammer

Captain..
I am not sure what you mean by "notchier" but I have only one complaint with my double disc.That complaint is when the truck has sat for a few days and either the humidity is up or it has rained and the floater plate gets a touch of surface rust on it and makes the clutch grabbier.It shifts as easy as it did with a single disc and doesn't hesitate or have to be forced into gear.

I run a EEP double and as of this date it has 80,000 hard street miles on it and it has performed flawlessly.Driving a double you have to get used to the fact that they are either engaged or disengaged and nothing inbetween.Once you work that out you will be fine with it and the driving part will begin to be normal.I had a small squeak as mine enganed when it was first put in and it drove me nuts,LOL.I called back to EEP and was told to twist her hard and walk it out to seat the unit better,the noise has been gone ever since.

I have seen a decrease of the "double disc floater plate rattle" when I installed the Fluidampr.It really has smoothed out the entire rotating assembly for me.Next time you slip into a show that I am at I will let you drive mine if you want.Hope this helped some......Andy

P.S.-Have you discussed the issue with Peter?.He is a stand up business and will help you through your first experiences with a double.

Captain

what I mean is It will not go into gear for at least 1-2 seconds. You have to wait while holding it against the gear for that long befor it slips in. Makes pulling out into traffic all but impossable. I didnt know if this could be because everything is new. I'm hopeing it wears in some soon and I can shift faster. I have over 150miles on it in the past couple of days and dosent seem like any change.

greenworks

I am in the same boat mine takesw a while to shift into gear... I am getting close to 700 km and it is better than it used to be but still no where near my fe, I really hope it gets better as well...

thekidfan

Mine wasn't that bad it just didn't want to go into gear (1st and R were the worst), but as Peter said "give it a thousand miles" and sure as s... it was like a brand new truck, I couldn't believe it! Not saying you are in the same boat but it may take some driving to break it in.. Good Luck to ya!!

Captain

Thats good to hear. I know the clutch as far as holding power breaks in around 200miles. And im at like 190 now and thinking wow it hasnt loosend up at all! I'll goto 1000 though and see how were doing.
thanks again
chris

tony597fitter

I have about 1100 miles on my 3250 DD and it gets better everyday. One guy on another forum said it took his DD about 10,000 miles to make it shift like stock. Mine isnt stock shifting yet, but like I said its getting better.
Also, Peter told me to do some boosted launches to get the glaze off of it. It definately shifted better after that.

Captain

I cant think of a better way to break something in then to beat on it! I'll have to go do that

Captain

This might be a dumb question.. On a manual how do you build boost to launch. I cant stand on the break because both my feet are busy and without a sled (I guess) hooked up to kepe it from moving much? Or should I just rev it to like 3000 and dumb the clutch.

greenworks

I do a boosted lauch with my left foot on the clutch and right foot with no shoe on with my toe on the brake and heel on the gas or vise versa and hold on... haven't tried it yet with my DD should be fun!!I going to wait another couple 100 miles first then let her go