Dana 60 Front Axle Hub, 1996 Ram 2500 diesel
#1
Dana 60 Front Axle Hub, 1996 Ram 2500 diesel
Hi,
I replaced the balljoints on my '96 2500 4x4 turbodiesel a few months ago. I missed the part in the manual about torqueing the nut that holds the hub/rotor to the axle and steering knuckle to 175 ft lbs. I tightened it until it felt like the wheel has slight resistance spinning and backed it off a touch. Needless to say, 1500 miles later and my hub is shot. So, I replaced it this weekend...this time noting that I botched the torque. Now, the manual said to torque to 175ft lbs , then slightly tighter or looser to line up the cotter pin hole. I figure that 175 ft lbs is not that important...it just has to be very tight. My axle shaft threads aren't real clean...they take probably close to 100 ft lbs to turn before the nut/washer even reach the hub. I used a 3/4 breaker bar with my jack handle on the end of it, turned the nut about 20 times until it got tight enough that I couldn't turn any more. Anyhow, here I am...45 miles later...I hear squeaking from up front. Granted, my torque technique could easily be to blame for this hub squeaking issue...but I find it hard to believe assembly error is to blame for this hub failing too(in addition to my original hub). Does anyone else know something else which might cause this. BTW, I saw a bunch of posts asking about where to get cheap hubs, I got mine for 130 at Advance Auto Parts. They had another hub...180...both hubs only have a 1 year warranty though.
Cheers!
Chris
I replaced the balljoints on my '96 2500 4x4 turbodiesel a few months ago. I missed the part in the manual about torqueing the nut that holds the hub/rotor to the axle and steering knuckle to 175 ft lbs. I tightened it until it felt like the wheel has slight resistance spinning and backed it off a touch. Needless to say, 1500 miles later and my hub is shot. So, I replaced it this weekend...this time noting that I botched the torque. Now, the manual said to torque to 175ft lbs , then slightly tighter or looser to line up the cotter pin hole. I figure that 175 ft lbs is not that important...it just has to be very tight. My axle shaft threads aren't real clean...they take probably close to 100 ft lbs to turn before the nut/washer even reach the hub. I used a 3/4 breaker bar with my jack handle on the end of it, turned the nut about 20 times until it got tight enough that I couldn't turn any more. Anyhow, here I am...45 miles later...I hear squeaking from up front. Granted, my torque technique could easily be to blame for this hub squeaking issue...but I find it hard to believe assembly error is to blame for this hub failing too(in addition to my original hub). Does anyone else know something else which might cause this. BTW, I saw a bunch of posts asking about where to get cheap hubs, I got mine for 130 at Advance Auto Parts. They had another hub...180...both hubs only have a 1 year warranty though.
Cheers!
Chris
#2
Chris, the torque shouldn't have caused bearing failure as you aren't preloading the bearing, just holding it tight to the steering knuckle. I guess if you really reefed on it you could have damaged the bearing. Normally the nut only touches the inner race, you aren't squeezing the bearing rotating surface tighter, but if over torqued it could deform the race and cause it to bind. This would be very hard to do though.
Perhaps the squeak is due to a bad brake caliper?
Hub price jumps considerably if you have front wheel ABS, that's why you often see such variability in pricing.
Perhaps the squeak is due to a bad brake caliper?
Hub price jumps considerably if you have front wheel ABS, that's why you often see such variability in pricing.
#3
Cool, that sounds good to me. Last night on my drive home, I noticed that the brakes did make a huge difference...so, you're probably right...hopefully. I'll let yous know if in fact my bearing goes bad!
Cheers,
Chris
Cheers,
Chris
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