I was thinking the same thing...especially as many people were speaking very definitively..

Anyway, if ya don't want to deal with that de-compressed engine, I'll take one for the team and swap ya with the one in my truck...

 

George, I'm really glad you are asking around. I'd rather you know what you are getting into BEFORE you buy something then possibly regret it.

Guys, this is a truck Jeff has down at his shop that was built for, as George said, a Dodge dealer owner.

What I have told George is this motor newly rebuilt and has milled marine pistons, custom Garmon injectors, 12mm pump Jeff has modified, twins 40/3b combo, studs, etc. It has a full billet Sun Coast triple.

When the truck was only at 575, it ran 12.4's at 107. It has not been raced once since built. Jeff did not build the motor, but did the tuning, pump and injector work and afterward it last dyno'd 652 and 1200+ tq. You all know my dyno too.

George is looking for it to be a daily driver. I'm concerned with the cold temps he will have up there and down here we don't worry too much about it. Jeff is going to pull some of the timing out and make a couple of other tweaks to see how that improves cold starts down here.

You northerners, give him the low down please. I don't want him to have this truck unless he will be happy. The truck is not being advertised but I feel sure if it were, it would sell. Give him the good, the bad, and the ugly please.

Thanks,

 

first time he lays into the throttle, he'll be plenty happy!

it'll start... there's always ether!

 

As long as it's plugged in, it'll start OK in PA. We don't typically see more than 5-10 days where it's below 20. I ran my truck a whole winter with dead grid heaters and had no problems even when unplugged.

And like Forrest said, a whiff of ether will get 'er lit off if all else fails. Might want to add a killswitch for the grid relays so you don't have to disconnect wires every time it needs a lil' toot.

 

with marine pistons in a 180hp 12v when i lived in montana with 370 injectors i could start down into the -30 mark without plugging in. i ran between 16-17 degrees timing. if she wont start right off on her own hold the throttle down about 1/4 while cranking and then keep it down when she fires hold rpms at 900-1000 for 1-2 minutes while she builds oil pressure etc let her get some heat going and it should be automatically cycling the intake heaters at the same time. if i took my foot off she would start to lope and then bog down and die within a minute but keeping the rpms up for a short stretch made all the difference. mine didnt have automatic intake heater grids mine were selenoid push button. watch the type of fuel you run, i had dual tanks when it was cold i would run 100% kerosene in the front 15 gallon tank and 50/50 in the rear tank or 60/40. right before shutting it down in areas where i couldnt plug in i would switch over to pure #1 and run it for 1-2 minutes to make sure it was in the system. otherwise below 30 i always tried to plug in but even on days when temps dropped rapidly and the truck sat for 2-3 days unplugged with only 50/50 she would force fire down to -15* needed #1 after that

 

Thanks for all the info guys

 

Hey Forrest, the first time I drove it, I never got it out of 2nd gear nor on the floor. It flat hauls the mail, it's all boy no doubt. Jeff made the timing changes and a few other things to see where we stand with the starting. I'll be putting it on the rollers again tomorrow to see where we are at. I still expect it to be 600+ but we will see.

 

I want one!

Forrest <-- jealous

 

Running marine pistons is one thing but "milled" marine pistons will lower the CR even further. How much were the pistons milled?? Were the pistons cut to clear a high lift cam or just to lower CR? How thick of a HG does it have?? Does it blow white smoke when warmed up and idling?? These are some questions that I would ask. Along with where is this truck at and please give me phone number I am interested.

 

I had the same response as clc900 ready to submit when the email chimed.


IMHO this engine will not be a friendly daily driver.
Fun, YES, but not friendly.

Detuning a high performance engine requires more than adjusting the timing.

-John

 

Like?

Also, why do you think it won't it be a friendly daily driver?

 

The pump mods may be extreme for a street driver.
The injectors may spill more fuel then they actually inject (not a slam just an expression).

Everyone has ignored the fuel plate in the pump. That defines fuel versus rpm potential.

This is not a diesel novice truck.

 

a plate can be changed... the biggest drivability problem is going to be the low compression... but if the thing's got a cam and some head work, and the turbos spool decent, it won't be that bad.

I'd certainly be happy to deal with it!

 

You're not a diesel novice.

The lowered compression ratio is not going to be the single factor. Pump setup, injector size, plate, and timing all contribute, too. How are the twins staged? A 40 is a pig on the lower side compared to any gasser. Yeah, once lit the twins will really shine.

George;
Not trying to dis you, but you admitted as a diesel newbie. The diesel is similar, but yet vastly different than a gas job, even a turbo gas.

 

Good Questions. This truck does not have a high lift cam but if it has the same pistons as Jeff uses, they will match one of Van Haisley's Cams. When warm, my memory says no smoke at idle.

Here is the link to a thread I found where these street guys were talking about the truck. This is kinda old, and the truck now has different wheels and tires. Really is funny reading the thread. You can also hear them talking about the Dakota (RIP) and my race here in Atlanta every September. Wonder what they thought when the trucks ran 11.'s instead of 12's.

http://www.streetcarforums.com/showt...t=diesel+truck

John, as far as streetability, I'll drive it again tomorrow and see but I don't remember it being anything out of the ordinary until you get into it. But Matt Stuckey drives his truck everyday and it is basically the same motor except Matt's has a 13mm pump. His made 744hp at the Sun Coast Open house this past January, only Darren's 762hp was higher (Another Garmon motor). Matt also won high HP last year at Muncie on #2 at 699, and won high hp at my race in Atlanta at 699hp. His truck is as streetable as my 450hp truck, just has much bigger ***** when you ask for it. But you make a valid point when you say it may not be a diesel novice truck. I don't expect there to be any problems with it, but it does make a ton if power and has the potential to break parts if abused just like any high hp vehicle.

We'll no more tomorrow and George, call the shop. 866-898-8585. I should be there by 9:00 am and you can talk to Jeff. It may more than you need/want. And like I told you, not my truck, I get nothing out of this deal so I have nothing to hide here. But I would never want my reputation tainted any worse than it already is over this truck.