Any Ideas??

 

Not very familiar with it but check your vacuum lines. The cruise control will not work without it.

 

have you changed/modified/serviced anything lately? maybe we can help narrow it down that way.
sometimes your battery will leak acid under the plastic box onto the vacuum line on the actuator under there, check there first

 

Check really close for vacuum leaks. I had one up near the master cylander that I didnt find for months. It was big enough to keep the cruise from working but small enough that the dash vents and 4X4 did. Let us know how it goes. I have a good amount of trouble shooting info at the house.

 

I have checked most of the lines but havent found anything bad unless it is hard to tell just by looking.

 

Shut the engine down after it's been running a bit and wait about a minute. Then disconnect one of the vacuum lines and you should hear air being sucked in. If you don't you have a vacuum leak.

 

Once you are confident there are no vaccum leaks check the tail light switch under the dash. If you can pull up the brake pedal and the cruise works its the brake switch out of adjustment. The steering wheel control switch can be disassembled an cleaned also.

 

If you have a vacuum guage, pull a line at the firewall and check. Should have 18 or so inches of vacuum.

If it reads in the single diget range, a easy way to locate the leak is use a bit of air to pressurize the vacuum system while listening for the leak. Engine off of course. I use a air tank with only 5lbs of air so as not to blow a line off. Usually pretty easy to hear the hiss of escaping air.

good luck, RR

 

Okay, I have checked the brake switch it seems fine. i have 25-30 inches of vacuum at the canister. It must be in the column??? How do you clean the contacts in the switches??

 

I had the same problem with my 95 and it definitley was the brakelight switch. Very easy to adjust!

 

The cruise switch can be removed from the back of the wheel by removing a couple of screws. I forget exactly how the switch came apart but I think it had those little plastic clips. Clean up the contacts really well. I have seen many people claim the switch checked good but wouldnt work till they replaced it. The wiring to the switch is also a big failure point if you used the tilt steering alot.

 

Alrighty, The switch is clean and checks out good with a continuity meter. I have good vacuum. And my brake light switch is fine.. Next??? I really miss my cruise. Also Another mystery is my horn has quit working. I can hear the relay under the hood click but no HONK.. Could these problems be related somehow??? I know they dont work together but could the wiring be screwed Up in the same place? I also took apart the relay box and checked the wiring inside it and all looks fine..

 

Sounds just like what mine does. If the green light will come on it will work, along with the horn. Mostly no horn or cruise......

 

Mine doesnt have a green light. Must be a 96 and newer light..

 

'95s don't have a light.
How do you know your brake light switch is good, they have two sets of contacts, one for the cruise and one for the lights.
Any other problems with the cruise relate to other sensors, you would be seeing no tach or speedo.
That leaves only the wiring from the pcm to the actuator, the actuator itself or a bad pcm. Sometimes a bad key switch will cause no cruise without other symptoms.

Beware of probing with a meter, you can enlarge female connectors causing a bad connection.

The diagnostic manual for your truck (#81-699-94003) has over 25 pages for trouble shooting the cruise and costs $12. I've spent literally weeks tracking down cruise problems on several rigs, the book is indispensable.
Buy one here https://techauthority.gltghosting.co...rn=80102&qty=0

My observation over many years is that most electrical problems are caused by someone working on the vehicle. If you were the one working on it before something failed go back where you worked and look for the problem.