I am not as familiar with the 94 and newer rigs as I am 1st gens.

Anybody ever had a filter holder base crack on a 98 style 12v truck? It appears to be cracked on the o-ring surface and sprays a pulse of fuel out each time the LP pumps. Tried a new ring and still sprays in the exact same place.

Is there a way to get a relocation kit to get rid of that canister style filter and go back to a spin-on style like the older trucks have? This truck has a large belt driven hydrualic pump on the drivers side that powers a utility bed. Makes the filter a real bear to replace. It would be nice to be able to run the filter over onto the fender somewhere on a bracket for more room.
EDIT: I found the primelock setup searching on google. The filter can't go in that exact place since the suction line for the hydro pump is right there. A simpler kit without the bracket and more options on the lines for more flexible mounting would be great though.
How about bypassing the filter under the hood altogether and putting a filter back near the tank, would that work? With the flat bed it would be easy to mount it back there, but will the stock LP suck through a filter?

question #2:
How do I speed the idle up on this thing? With that hydro pump there I cant even touch the IP without pulling the battery out on that side. So it would be nice to know what I am looking for ahead of time.
It won't start unless you hold down on the throttle. Also will die unless you keep you foot on it for a minute or so.

Thanks!

 

Andy: With regard to question 2, there is an adjustment screw located on the rear of the injection pump to adjust the idle. It takes a 10mm wrench. Unloosen the lock nut on bottom and only turn the top adjustment nut about 1/8 turn at a time. Idle should be set to about 800 RPM. If you will do a search on this thread, Infidel has posted a diagram that shows this.

John (DH)

 

#2
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/adj...d_Gen-Idle.htm

dunno what I can do to help with #1 if it in fact is cracked except get a new part...I dunno what the name of it is..sorry but I can help you by giving you the part number for a solid fleet filter so u dont have to mess with the separator all the time and have a spare carquest # 86395...u can cross reference them and get napa or autozone parts too...ive been usign the carquest one for 150k no issues...its 9$ compared to the huge price u pay for the OEM one

 

Andy, make darned sure you have the cannister lined up correctly, there is a slot and tab arrangement that is not super obvious. I had a heck of a time, just like you getting it to seal until I looked at the FSM. If the top is actually cracked by tightening it too much, it should not be a huge problem to come up with a modified Prime-Loc location using the lines they provide.

But first, really follow the directions for the filter change, get it up there very loosely snugged and turn the cannister slightly back and forth to feel the slot engage, the fuel drain should be exactly forward.

Good luck man, I had a heck of a time doing mine with just an electrical isolation box on the fenderwell, I cant imagine the PITA it would be with more lines running along that area.

 

It is lined up right, will probably order that kit and make it fit.

Now another problem yesterday!

Parked truck and then it would not restart. I checked the fuses in the PDC and tried a different start relay with no luck. I then went to just jump power underneath to the solenoid and got sparks. Discovered that the starter trigger wire is shorted to the block in the harness somewhere so I ran a new one.

Here is the thing, still now power to the starter. There is no power getting to the 37 terminal of the relay in the PDC. The relay coil is getting triggered when the key goes to start though. So I just touched my wire to the bat and started it.

My problems were not over though... No power to alot of things in the interior. No blower motor, no power windows, and a few others.

All of the fuses in the PDC look fine but I had to go and did not get a chance to check the interior fuse pannel.

Does this sound like a bad ignition switch or is there something else I should look at? Ignition switch is $100!