Corrosion on Battery Terminals
09-07-2006, 12:48 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 542
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Corrosion on Battery Terminals
I know this will be an odd question.
But what can I do to stop the corrosion from building up in the terminal contacts.
Seems alot more common on my drivers side battery.
Ive tried countless home remdy fixes that have worked for me in the past.
Batteries are both only 1.5 years old, and operate fine.
Ideas?
But what can I do to stop the corrosion from building up in the terminal contacts.
Seems alot more common on my drivers side battery.
Ive tried countless home remdy fixes that have worked for me in the past.
Batteries are both only 1.5 years old, and operate fine.
Ideas?
09-07-2006, 02:49 PM
#3
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: PASADENA,TX
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hello,
I have had good luck with the bg top post battery top post protectors # 985. They are thick and extra greasy to keep acid from coming through to the very expensive cables. You can find some one who carries them through BGfindashop.com.
I have had good luck with the bg top post battery top post protectors # 985. They are thick and extra greasy to keep acid from coming through to the very expensive cables. You can find some one who carries them through BGfindashop.com.
09-07-2006, 10:25 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Northwest, Minnesota USA
Posts: 1,629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've used the felt washers with limited success. I've also used black RTV to seal around the post with varying success.
Seeing as your batteries are nearly new I don't think you're ready to make the jump to AGM (Optima) batteries.
Did you replace your cable clamps? They lose grip with age and loose connections generate visible corrosion.
I replaced my battery clamps and that stopped most of the corrosion.
Seeing as your batteries are nearly new I don't think you're ready to make the jump to AGM (Optima) batteries.
Did you replace your cable clamps? They lose grip with age and loose connections generate visible corrosion.
I replaced my battery clamps and that stopped most of the corrosion.
09-07-2006, 10:52 PM
#5
Registered User
Believe it or not
ive had two types of things that work well for me, I buy the red spray for battery terminal protection, and it works great, But i have also used Axle grease on the terminals and it eliminates corrossion..
Another native way to get rid of acid is to wash the terminals with a carbonated beverage of a warmer temperature, Dont know why, but it works well.. ive used all three ways effectively, but the safest and easiest is the red spray..
Rick
ive had two types of things that work well for me, I buy the red spray for battery terminal protection, and it works great, But i have also used Axle grease on the terminals and it eliminates corrossion..
Another native way to get rid of acid is to wash the terminals with a carbonated beverage of a warmer temperature, Dont know why, but it works well.. ive used all three ways effectively, but the safest and easiest is the red spray..
Rick
09-07-2006, 10:55 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I use Battery Terminal Protectant Spray it comes in a small, thin, spray bottle. The stuff is red and it dries kind of wet. I get it at Autozone and it cost about $3. About once a year I take off the cables, clean the terminals with baking soda and water, scrape the posts with a wire brush, put on a pair of those red/green felt washers, then spray the terminals with protectant. Works great no corrosion.
09-07-2006, 11:28 PM
#7
Registered User
I agree with the post about choosing a different battery. Optimas are a good choice, but any battery that's sealed on top (like a Delco, for one) will prevent corrosion. Stay away from any battery with removeable caps on the top.
I also like to spray the connections with a product called Fluid Film. Works great.
I also like to spray the connections with a product called Fluid Film. Works great.
Trending Topics
09-08-2006, 02:50 AM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: North Central Arizona
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Good thread.
In hot climates, a "maintenance free" type battery is trouble, and may not last very long. They tend to lose water, and you can't replace it. Instead of maintenance-free, the Optima redtops are usually superior in most all ways in hot climates.
The Redtops are nice and clean. But, there is a downside to them also. If you leave a load on the batteries and totally discharge them...then you cannot just jumpstart the truck, and drive off. The AGM type battery (Optima, etc) doesn't like this at all. It must be slowly charged for 24-48 hours or so, to bring the standing voltage up to where it can be charged at full charge current.
A standard flooded Lead-Acid battery doesn't care so much. You can jumpstart the truck and drive off letting the alternator blast charge into the batteries.
If you do charge the Optima heavily when their voltage is very low it will substantially decrease their usable life. All batteries are non-linear devices. If you could draw a charge graph, it would not be a straight line. Different types of lead-acid batteries have different curves. At very low voltages, lead sulfate coats the plates...insulates them to a degree from the charge current. So, it takes a bit of time to convert enough of this sulfate to where a decent percentage of the plates are exposed. In a flooded battery there is a lot of water in there to absorb the heat of reaction as the sulfate starts to become sulphuric acid again. In the AGM glass-mat battery this isn't true. At low voltages (0-10) the efficiency of the reaction is low, and much heat is created which can boil the electrolyte and cause the plates to develop oxidation. At medium voltage, where a battery is assumed to be fully discharged typically...about 10.2 volts or so, the efficiency of reaction is drastically increased, so heat is not a factor from this point on.
Its true of Optimas that you can charge them much heavier than a wet lead-acid under normal charging conditions. Its only when the batteries get "over-discharged" down to near zero that the AGM type batteries get finicky.
Once the voltage of the battery is up over 10 volts, you can throw the amps to it with no problems at all.
And then again, I could be wrong!
In hot climates, a "maintenance free" type battery is trouble, and may not last very long. They tend to lose water, and you can't replace it. Instead of maintenance-free, the Optima redtops are usually superior in most all ways in hot climates.
The Redtops are nice and clean. But, there is a downside to them also. If you leave a load on the batteries and totally discharge them...then you cannot just jumpstart the truck, and drive off. The AGM type battery (Optima, etc) doesn't like this at all. It must be slowly charged for 24-48 hours or so, to bring the standing voltage up to where it can be charged at full charge current.
A standard flooded Lead-Acid battery doesn't care so much. You can jumpstart the truck and drive off letting the alternator blast charge into the batteries.
If you do charge the Optima heavily when their voltage is very low it will substantially decrease their usable life. All batteries are non-linear devices. If you could draw a charge graph, it would not be a straight line. Different types of lead-acid batteries have different curves. At very low voltages, lead sulfate coats the plates...insulates them to a degree from the charge current. So, it takes a bit of time to convert enough of this sulfate to where a decent percentage of the plates are exposed. In a flooded battery there is a lot of water in there to absorb the heat of reaction as the sulfate starts to become sulphuric acid again. In the AGM glass-mat battery this isn't true. At low voltages (0-10) the efficiency of the reaction is low, and much heat is created which can boil the electrolyte and cause the plates to develop oxidation. At medium voltage, where a battery is assumed to be fully discharged typically...about 10.2 volts or so, the efficiency of reaction is drastically increased, so heat is not a factor from this point on.
Its true of Optimas that you can charge them much heavier than a wet lead-acid under normal charging conditions. Its only when the batteries get "over-discharged" down to near zero that the AGM type batteries get finicky.
Once the voltage of the battery is up over 10 volts, you can throw the amps to it with no problems at all.
And then again, I could be wrong!
09-08-2006, 08:02 AM
#9
Administrator
Corrosion on the terminals is usually caused from the gas that is leaking past the seals of the post. Under normal conditions, lead on lead or lead on brass don't corrode.
When the battery off gasses either while being heavily discharged (using winch, cranking) or overcharged can force the seals to leak as can poor quality control when they were made.
Keeping the battery clean and the charging system operating properly goes a long way in reducing corrosion.
Keep good terminals on the cables too, once there is corrosion on the cable behind the terminal, it can wick up the cable and eat itself from the inside out.
I make all of my own cables with welding cable then I seal the terminals on with adhesive filled heat shrink.
I seal the clean terminals on the battery with NOCO NCP-2 terminal protector, I used this stuff when I worked for LA County, it is real thick goop that seals the terminal and is a mess to get off but it works.
I worked for a company that bought me NOCO products for servicing the batteries in Class-A motor coaches it cost them about $4000.00 in all but it's mine to keep.
I have an over abundance of cast battery terminals in the 4ga. 2ga. 0, 00 size including flag terminals.
http://www.wilpowerbattery.com/pdfs/nococatalog.pdf
But any decent protector will work just make sure the battery and terminals are clean and acid free first, don’t forget the tray.
I use plain old baking soda and water to keep mine clean then I dry it off then wipe down the top with WD-40 on a rag around the terminals then I apply the goop.
I wash the engine compartment about every time I wash the truck.
Remember to wash down the mess under the battery when you are through, Can't figure out why auto manufactures put wiring harnesses under the battery when they know they are going to leak.
This is just what I do.
Jim
When the battery off gasses either while being heavily discharged (using winch, cranking) or overcharged can force the seals to leak as can poor quality control when they were made.
Keeping the battery clean and the charging system operating properly goes a long way in reducing corrosion.
Keep good terminals on the cables too, once there is corrosion on the cable behind the terminal, it can wick up the cable and eat itself from the inside out.
I make all of my own cables with welding cable then I seal the terminals on with adhesive filled heat shrink.
I seal the clean terminals on the battery with NOCO NCP-2 terminal protector, I used this stuff when I worked for LA County, it is real thick goop that seals the terminal and is a mess to get off but it works.
I worked for a company that bought me NOCO products for servicing the batteries in Class-A motor coaches it cost them about $4000.00 in all but it's mine to keep.
I have an over abundance of cast battery terminals in the 4ga. 2ga. 0, 00 size including flag terminals.
http://www.wilpowerbattery.com/pdfs/nococatalog.pdf
But any decent protector will work just make sure the battery and terminals are clean and acid free first, don’t forget the tray.
I use plain old baking soda and water to keep mine clean then I dry it off then wipe down the top with WD-40 on a rag around the terminals then I apply the goop.
I wash the engine compartment about every time I wash the truck.
Remember to wash down the mess under the battery when you are through, Can't figure out why auto manufactures put wiring harnesses under the battery when they know they are going to leak.
This is just what I do.
Jim
09-08-2006, 09:13 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Iowa
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What I would do is get some baking soda and some warm water and mix that togeather. Then you pore that on the terminal and that cleans it right up, after you do that, you may want to wash with just water. Then I put axle grease on mine, works perfect.
09-08-2006, 01:06 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Corpus Christi, Tx.
Posts: 372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
...But any decent protector will work just make sure the battery and terminals are clean and acid free first, don’t forget the tray.
I use plain old baking soda and water to keep mine clean then I dry it off then wipe down the top with WD-40 on a rag around the terminals then I apply the goop.
I wash the engine compartment about every time I wash the truck.
Remember to wash down the mess under the battery when you are through, Can't figure out why auto manufactures put wiring harnesses under the battery when they know they are going to leak.
This is just what I do.
Jim
I use plain old baking soda and water to keep mine clean then I dry it off then wipe down the top with WD-40 on a rag around the terminals then I apply the goop.
I wash the engine compartment about every time I wash the truck.
Remember to wash down the mess under the battery when you are through, Can't figure out why auto manufactures put wiring harnesses under the battery when they know they are going to leak.
This is just what I do.
Jim
Having just a wiring harness running under the batteries is one thing, but why the Cruise Control AND the AirBag shock sensors got placed under the battery tray runoff is another thing
... The Optima's will be worth the extra buck$ if I don't have any more acid related damage...K.
09-08-2006, 09:07 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kansas
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One other "home-remedy" to try, and I thought this was crazy at first too, but if you use the baking soda and water to get them all cleaned up, take a penny and use a spot of grease to stick it on the top of the battery. For some reason the penny will take the corrosion and your posts will remain clean.
Read that on some website a while back and tried it. Seems to be working so far.
Read that on some website a while back and tried it. Seems to be working so far.
09-08-2006, 09:45 PM
#14
Administrator
One other "home-remedy" to try, and I thought this was crazy at first too, but if you use the baking soda and water to get them all cleaned up, take a penny and use a spot of grease to stick it on the top of the battery. For some reason the penny will take the corrosion and your posts will remain clean.
Read that on some website a while back and tried it. Seems to be working so far.
Read that on some website a while back and tried it. Seems to be working so far.
I am wondering if the sacrificial penny trick would work anymore with out new pennies since they are copper clad aluminum?
copper bar stock would probably work instead.
