cheap stock trans upgrades?
06-30-2010, 09:22 PM
#1
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cheap stock trans upgrades?
hey guys,
im getting my 12v this weekend and im already feeling the power itch, but its an automatic. what can i do right off the bat for pretty cheap so the stock trans will hold some power? whats the most power i can safely throw at it?
thanks ahead
cody
im getting my 12v this weekend and im already feeling the power itch, but its an automatic. what can i do right off the bat for pretty cheap so the stock trans will hold some power? whats the most power i can safely throw at it?
thanks ahead
cody
07-01-2010, 12:41 PM
#2
You can usually safely go about 50 hp before you start to risk the transmission. That can certainly vary though--some haven't added any power and toasted their transmission, and some have been able to add significantly more power with no problems.
The first thing I'd do is get a temp gauge and install the sender in the output line that heads up to the cooler (some don't like that, instead preferring the sender in the pan). Knowing your fluid temps and some driving techniques to prevent raising fluid temps will go a long way to reducing the possibility of transmission damage.
For the driving techniques, most tend to deal with the following concepts:
1. The valve body circulates fluid in N, but not P. Because of this, it's helpful to shift into N in stop and go traffic to help keep fluid temps down.
2. OD is notoriously tall in these transmissions. This means that heavy power in 4th gear when the torque converter isn't locked up will cause fluid temps to skyrocket quickly. Even if the torque converter IS locked up, heavy power in 4th is still bad because the converter lockup clutch isn't particularly strong. This is why you see advice to lock out OD when towing.
3. Heavy power at low rpms = lots of tranny fluid heating. If you keep from really digging into the throttle until the RPMs climb up (the higher the better), the less that power goes into heating the fluid or stressing the clutches.
You can also help with parts like a Mag Hytec double deep tranny pan, but for any significant power adds, you need to do some tranny work like raising line pressure. There's potential problems with doing that on an older transmission though. This is getting out of my element, since the most complex transmission work I've ever done is simple fluid/filter services, so hopefully some tranny gurus will reply soon.
Good luck,
Mike
The first thing I'd do is get a temp gauge and install the sender in the output line that heads up to the cooler (some don't like that, instead preferring the sender in the pan). Knowing your fluid temps and some driving techniques to prevent raising fluid temps will go a long way to reducing the possibility of transmission damage.
For the driving techniques, most tend to deal with the following concepts:
1. The valve body circulates fluid in N, but not P. Because of this, it's helpful to shift into N in stop and go traffic to help keep fluid temps down.
2. OD is notoriously tall in these transmissions. This means that heavy power in 4th gear when the torque converter isn't locked up will cause fluid temps to skyrocket quickly. Even if the torque converter IS locked up, heavy power in 4th is still bad because the converter lockup clutch isn't particularly strong. This is why you see advice to lock out OD when towing.
3. Heavy power at low rpms = lots of tranny fluid heating. If you keep from really digging into the throttle until the RPMs climb up (the higher the better), the less that power goes into heating the fluid or stressing the clutches.
You can also help with parts like a Mag Hytec double deep tranny pan, but for any significant power adds, you need to do some tranny work like raising line pressure. There's potential problems with doing that on an older transmission though. This is getting out of my element, since the most complex transmission work I've ever done is simple fluid/filter services, so hopefully some tranny gurus will reply soon.
Good luck,
Mike
07-02-2010, 12:41 AM
#3
Registered User
You can usually safely go about 50 hp before you start to risk the transmission. That can certainly vary though--some haven't added any power and toasted their transmission, and some have been able to add significantly more power with no problems.
The first thing I'd do is get a temp gauge and install the sender in the output line that heads up to the cooler (some don't like that, instead preferring the sender in the pan). Knowing your fluid temps and some driving techniques to prevent raising fluid temps will go a long way to reducing the possibility of transmission damage.
For the driving techniques, most tend to deal with the following concepts:
1. The valve body circulates fluid in N, but not P. Because of this, it's helpful to shift into N in stop and go traffic to help keep fluid temps down.
2. OD is notoriously tall in these transmissions. This means that heavy power in 4th gear when the torque converter isn't locked up will cause fluid temps to skyrocket quickly. Even if the torque converter IS locked up, heavy power in 4th is still bad because the converter lockup clutch isn't particularly strong. This is why you see advice to lock out OD when towing.
3. Heavy power at low rpms = lots of tranny fluid heating. If you keep from really digging into the throttle until the RPMs climb up (the higher the better), the less that power goes into heating the fluid or stressing the clutches.
You can also help with parts like a Mag Hytec double deep tranny pan, but for any significant power adds, you need to do some tranny work like raising line pressure. There's potential problems with doing that on an older transmission though. This is getting out of my element, since the most complex transmission work I've ever done is simple fluid/filter services, so hopefully some tranny gurus will reply soon.
Good luck,
Mike
The first thing I'd do is get a temp gauge and install the sender in the output line that heads up to the cooler (some don't like that, instead preferring the sender in the pan). Knowing your fluid temps and some driving techniques to prevent raising fluid temps will go a long way to reducing the possibility of transmission damage.
For the driving techniques, most tend to deal with the following concepts:
1. The valve body circulates fluid in N, but not P. Because of this, it's helpful to shift into N in stop and go traffic to help keep fluid temps down.
2. OD is notoriously tall in these transmissions. This means that heavy power in 4th gear when the torque converter isn't locked up will cause fluid temps to skyrocket quickly. Even if the torque converter IS locked up, heavy power in 4th is still bad because the converter lockup clutch isn't particularly strong. This is why you see advice to lock out OD when towing.
3. Heavy power at low rpms = lots of tranny fluid heating. If you keep from really digging into the throttle until the RPMs climb up (the higher the better), the less that power goes into heating the fluid or stressing the clutches.
You can also help with parts like a Mag Hytec double deep tranny pan, but for any significant power adds, you need to do some tranny work like raising line pressure. There's potential problems with doing that on an older transmission though. This is getting out of my element, since the most complex transmission work I've ever done is simple fluid/filter services, so hopefully some tranny gurus will reply soon.
Good luck,
Mike
To OP a shift improvement kit such as a transgo or similar will quicken your shifts and raise your line pressure for a small to reasonable amount spent.
Around $100.00 plus fluid and filter.
How much additional it will handle is very dependent on it's current condition and how you drive/load it.
My 94 has 300 HP injectors and 181 delivery valves with 4:10 gears and tows my 26' 5th wheel camper real nice and has 150k on the original tranny.
It will be due for a freshen some time soon i expect but it is getting old and has some miles on it with extra power so i won't complain. By the way i don't use the lock out switch hardly ever and i have/use the converter lockup switch i installed.
07-03-2010, 10:32 PM
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Broseph!
I sold my 96 with 180k on the clock with just a transgo. Of course the tranny was the weak link but it held 400 hp for 60k and was still going down the road when I upgraded. I think a shift kit will be a good start. I had a Super B, 370's, 17* timing, 3k GSK, AFC mods, 5" exh and a 100 plate full forward for the majority of the time I drove it. When I installed the shift kit, I supplemented four quarts of Lucas in the tranny and it helped, as far as I can tell anyhow. Drive with the shift kit and straight pipe for now, save for a good converter and performance rebuild and then worry about fuel and air upgrades. If you dont, its a LONG walk to Georgetown.
I sold my 96 with 180k on the clock with just a transgo. Of course the tranny was the weak link but it held 400 hp for 60k and was still going down the road when I upgraded. I think a shift kit will be a good start. I had a Super B, 370's, 17* timing, 3k GSK, AFC mods, 5" exh and a 100 plate full forward for the majority of the time I drove it. When I installed the shift kit, I supplemented four quarts of Lucas in the tranny and it helped, as far as I can tell anyhow. Drive with the shift kit and straight pipe for now, save for a good converter and performance rebuild and then worry about fuel and air upgrades. If you dont, its a LONG walk to Georgetown.
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