Ron E

'96 4X4 2500. I've searched and my problem isn't even mentioned. That leads me to think I'm just missing the obvious, or inept, or any number of conditions. (none flattering)
Mine is the type where the rotor fits on the back side (or inside) of the hub. (I.E. can't pull rotor off and leave hub on)
I've got the new rotor and hub assy together. My problem is getting the holes of the dust shield, spacer and hub all clocked correctly so I can start the 4 12-point bolts that go through the knuckle and thread into the hub. Trying to get all those pieces lined up (not to mention the axle splines) is kicking my butt!
Does anybody have any advice (or tricks) on a good way to do this?
Help the less gifted and thanks in advance.

patdaly

Mine has never messed with me, but if it did, I would run down to the hardware store and buy 2 of the correct metric bolts longer than needed in the lowest grade I could find, whack the heads off, and use them as guides to keep everything aligned while I started the other 2 bolts............. Then remove the guides and install the right bolts.

Ron E

Thanks. I was leaning that way. I think part of my problem has been the spacer and backing plate are a little warped which doesn't help matters. Also, trying to do it after work leaves me just enough time to get dirty before it starts getting dark, We'll see if a longer stretch of daylight helps. I'm sure the line-up pins will. Thanks again

silverram323

Huh, I just replaced my passenger wheel bearing and all new brakes, I don't recall any alignment issues. I sticked the two top bolts in the holes to hold the two spacers and slide the hub into place.

RoadDiesel

I started out to just replace the front brake calipers, because they were sticking & brake pads...opened it up & saw the rubber brake hose's aging & started replacing both front brake hose's. when I went to remove the hose, I saw the metal brake lines rusted and ready to burst. replaced the brake lines, then discovered the rotors should be replaced, so I ordered those fancy drilled ones..haha...then all the work taking off the rotors (some of us know what I mean. if not you will) I ordered new Timken wheel bearings..so mine should be good for a while..I had no problem lining up the hub bolts to the hub..buy I know what you mean, as it can be hard to get hands/tools & even see in that area..what brand of front bearings did you use?

Ron E

I use Timken for the same reasons as you. I figured that if anybody knows bearings, its them. Yea, I now know all the fun with the rotor R&R. That didn't make your day.
I'm guessing there are "issues" with the drilled rotors?

I think my main problem was in trying to make sure I didn't do something stupid and screw something up. I've never done this before and was over cautious of the axle, making sure nothing got in a bind, etc. Just didn't want to break something expensive.

I appreciate the help.

RoadDiesel

come to think of it, I did use a Phillips screw-driver for one side to line up the hub, plate gasket, before I put the bolt in it, but it didn't take much...the drilled rotors are my very first time using them & I ordered the ones below, They very much improved my trucks stopping distance! I used allot of "anit-seize" on the bolt threads, & between the rotor, dust shield and plate gaskets...Both dust shields were too rusted out to put back on, so I'm looking for those as clean used, or with have to make a set. I had new steel plate gaskets made at a place who used a CDA computer and laser cut them out for me..like $4.50 each..those came out perfect!!

Now on to the next part of a "Restoration Project" with these trucks..lol,, the notorious leaking transmission lines to the transmission cooler..

Front Kit Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors Ceramic Pads Dodge RAM 4WD 4x4 | eBay