Caster "fixed" DW definately NOT
#17
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From: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe
No effect on turning radius, still goes from stop to stop.
I can't remember, do you have a DSS? Sector shaft play is often a problem, I had it on my truck before I put in the PSC box.
With cupping on one side, I'd suspect a TRE or a ball joint. That'll definitely aggravate DW. I'd lean toward a TRE.
Does it pop when you turn the wheel?
As much as it pains me to tell you this, I completely rebuilt my front end with OEM parts (Moog), new TRE's, ball joints, cross joints, the whole bit, and 10K miles later I got the DW again. Granted I had a shot out Skyjunker lift on it.......
Do a little more torture testing on the track bar/LL deal, I think you're narrowing it down. Hitting a bump at 40-50 MPH puts a lot more load on the track bar than turning it side to side in the driveway.
Last time I saw a DW this persistent, the guy threw about $1500 in parts at it, just to find out it was a tire problem.
Edit: I've also heard the BFG's are notorious for DW problems, but I thought it was only the AT's. Might be worth looking into.
I can't remember, do you have a DSS? Sector shaft play is often a problem, I had it on my truck before I put in the PSC box.
With cupping on one side, I'd suspect a TRE or a ball joint. That'll definitely aggravate DW. I'd lean toward a TRE.
Does it pop when you turn the wheel?
As much as it pains me to tell you this, I completely rebuilt my front end with OEM parts (Moog), new TRE's, ball joints, cross joints, the whole bit, and 10K miles later I got the DW again. Granted I had a shot out Skyjunker lift on it.......
Do a little more torture testing on the track bar/LL deal, I think you're narrowing it down. Hitting a bump at 40-50 MPH puts a lot more load on the track bar than turning it side to side in the driveway.
Last time I saw a DW this persistent, the guy threw about $1500 in parts at it, just to find out it was a tire problem.
Edit: I've also heard the BFG's are notorious for DW problems, but I thought it was only the AT's. Might be worth looking into.
#18
I had the DW with the Nittos and the BFG MTR's.. More prevalent with the BFGs, but had it come up with the Nittos as well.
One side had ball joints replaced (they have grease zerks) the other side (which happens to be the tire that is cupping) has not had them replaced.. But they are solid, no play, so it points to a TRE.
Plus you really can't rely on the cupping of one side because these tires get switched almost every 2 weeks for truck pulls.. I go between the mudders and the Nittos.
I have a pretty much new AGR steering box with the DSS installed. I definately had sector shaft play without it.
I have heard a pop when I turned the wheel before, I think.
Got any part numbers for the TRE's? Rockauto.com has good prices on MOOG..
Thanks!
One side had ball joints replaced (they have grease zerks) the other side (which happens to be the tire that is cupping) has not had them replaced.. But they are solid, no play, so it points to a TRE.
Plus you really can't rely on the cupping of one side because these tires get switched almost every 2 weeks for truck pulls.. I go between the mudders and the Nittos.
I have a pretty much new AGR steering box with the DSS installed. I definately had sector shaft play without it.
I have heard a pop when I turned the wheel before, I think.
Got any part numbers for the TRE's? Rockauto.com has good prices on MOOG..
Thanks!
#19
Got some severe DW going over my usual testing site today. It gave a hint, then got progressively worse.. Almost knocked the window out of the track it was so bad.. I jerked the wheel to the left and it finally went away..
Its really bad.. feels like its going to shake the truck apart.
Its really bad.. feels like its going to shake the truck apart.
#21
It was about 70MPH. Very quickly decreased speed as I almost lost it
Which part numbers should be good?
The first 3 listed?
Pitman arm to RH connecting tie rod, at pitman arm
Steering arm to steering arm, LH outer end
Pitman arm to RH Connecting tie rod, at RH connecting tie rod
Is that all I need?
Also, is it that hard to replace them?
Thanks!
Which part numbers should be good?
The first 3 listed?
Pitman arm to RH connecting tie rod, at pitman arm
Steering arm to steering arm, LH outer end
Pitman arm to RH Connecting tie rod, at RH connecting tie rod
Is that all I need?
Also, is it that hard to replace them?
Thanks!
#22
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,515
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From: The 951-Flatbill center of the universe
Part numbers I came up with are
Outer Tie Rod End LEFT - w/DANA 60 AXLE ES3496
Tie Rod End LH STEERING ARM TO CONNECTING TIE ROD - AT CONNECTING TIE ROD - HEAVY DUTY DS1456
Tie Rod End PITMAN ARM TO RH STEERING ARM - CONNECTING TIE ROD DS1459
Tie Rod End PITMAN ARM TO RH STEERING ARM - AT PITMAN ARM ES3497
When you replace them, make sure you measure the old ones first so the alignment is reasonably close when you put the new ones back on. I use neverseez on the adjuster sleeves too.
Outer Tie Rod End LEFT - w/DANA 60 AXLE ES3496
Tie Rod End LH STEERING ARM TO CONNECTING TIE ROD - AT CONNECTING TIE ROD - HEAVY DUTY DS1456
Tie Rod End PITMAN ARM TO RH STEERING ARM - CONNECTING TIE ROD DS1459
Tie Rod End PITMAN ARM TO RH STEERING ARM - AT PITMAN ARM ES3497
When you replace them, make sure you measure the old ones first so the alignment is reasonably close when you put the new ones back on. I use neverseez on the adjuster sleeves too.
#23
Try rotating the tires or swap some other ones in there before you buy anything else. I know my tires are the problem although they are much bigger but still I think there is a possibility they could be causing it.
Good luck
Good luck
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