I just threaded a lug nut down so it was just a bit higher than the stud, whacked them right out. Slayerfish, the reason you leave the big nut on is because the pressed bearing can and often will separate when the hub is being pressed off. Leaving the nut tight allows the stub shaft to keep pressure on the hub bearing from the backside.

 

Always better to leave the nut tight.
I use a 5 lb copper headed hand sledge to remove the studs even though I have a press, faster. One whack is usually enough, no nut and no damage. I've never seen a reason to replace the studs with new ones.

 

Guess I lucked out, for once - checked the date code on my front axle.

It's 01 25 - 25th week of 2001 - so no driving studs to remove rotors.

Rite front is somewhat loose - we'll see how it goes, Thursday.

The front frame section is 2002, so looks like I've got the latest steering system used on the second-gen frames.

Not happy about the way it clunks occasionally, left or right - may have to straighten several link curves to eliminate that.

 

I threaded a lug nut on till flush with the stud. Then just hit it hard and true and they will pop right out. To put them back in,use an old rotor as a base and beat the studs back in. This time you will need a large drift or punch. I used a 1" diameter x 6" long shaft from an old tranny or something. You beat them in till the pitch changes. You can literally hear and feel it when the studs bottom out.

 

Ok, I got my seal and all the stuff together. When I get into the axle I find that the seal had come out of the axle entirely, thus the leak. Looks like not only did the PO get the wrong seal but I did also. 16015 is too large to fit into the groove and without a shallow cylindrical piece of metal to drive it (I did this with the axle stub from the carrier in place so no room for the 1 3/4) it just kept going crooked. Evenutally I gave up and did the same thing.. wedge it straight in and go nuts with RTV.
Id like to see what part number dodge gives me for that seal...

 

Thanks for the tip Bill, I had to replace my driver's side rotor today after a brake pad failure. It made the job a lot easier knowing this!

 

That's a great picture Infidel. This is a trick that works great. I would add that unless I'm changing the hub/bearing assembly, I just leave the big nut done up, and don't touch it at all. You can remove the assembly, and service the rotor, u-joint, or seal, and leave the shaft attached to the hub and bearing. Then you don't have to risk tearing the threads off the stub-shaft trying to separate the shaft from the hub. I've changed lots of those seals, and have noticed that on removal, the lip is always worn right off. There's a lot of dirt and grit inside the axle tube and it's hard on the seal. Before I re-install the shaft, I use a tool I made to scrape all the grit and rust out of the tube so as not to contaminate the seal.

 

I bought the whole assembly at NAPA when we replaced them on my sons 94. Almost $800 for the two. Be careful not to shock those new hub assemblies during installation that could damage the bearings. I would highly recommend replacing the four bolts on each side too.

 

I changed my rotors and the seals started to leak after a week they quit leaking and I went through this four times. So maybe if you just keep an eye on them they will dry up

 

The key to avoid the leak is to jack the side you are working on up high so the fluid flows to the other side and to support the u-joint by stuffing rags under it so it stays in the stock position.
Just letting the axle hang down a little causes the seal to distort and let oil by till the seal "heals".
Filling the differential to the factory recommended 3/4" below the bottom of the fill hole, not all the way to the bottom of the hole also prevents leaks.
Many times the reason they stop leaking is because the fluid leaks down to the correct level.

 

Why is there a lug nut behind the extenshion against the frame ??????

 

I asked that same question of the person who took the picture, it's not mine. He said it was to extend the length of the extension a little bit.
I didn't quite understand this reasoning except that maybe he felt it best if the bolts are getting pushed straight.
When I use this method I pay no mind to the length of the extension, most times my wheels are about half way turned to the limit rather than pointing straight ahead. In fact the first time I tried this all I used was a deep socket.

 

So when it won't come out with the hydr press way you just beat it out? Maybe I will try to find a puller from a local mechanic in town.

 

just pulled my brothers 97 front end apart due to seal leaking and ujoints at drivers side wasted. used your built in press tech. worked great. now to replace seals. i will remove acuator to see if access is easier. web site doesn't work at this point in time to show seal replacement.

 

This one just worked for me http://dieselpowerman.tripod.com/Fro...xle%20Tech.htm