I got the new one in. Not really easy but it was OK. The hub seperated when I pulled off the rotor but no big deal since that is what I was replacing. The biggest hassle was finding a 1-11/16" socket to take off the axle nut. I actually couldn't find one so I used a 1-3/4" instead. It worked OK. Now time for an alignment and some new tires. I can already feel the difference, no more pulling to the right and no more vibration at highway speed.

 

Yeah, I know what you mean about the 1-11/16, I had to run to two sears stores before I found one. I started mine last night, still working on the project since I cracked the 14mm socket, sort of stopped me in my tracks. Had to run back out today to get another 14mm socket, picked up two just in case.

 

Well I did are real good CAPTIAL F job tonight, went to finally pull the rotor and hub assembly off the knuckle and on doing so the inner bearing and hub came apart. the grease seal and I think it is the race still on the outer knuckle.... Ah.. good times I say..


I put the new rotor on anyway, and put it all back together and seems to be ok.But I'm not happy on the way that went. I think to make myself more comfortable I'm going to have to buy the hub assembly ARGH...

I read on the one cattle hauler website that it happened to him and he was able to press them back together off the vehicle. Not recommended he says., so I'm up a creek with out a paddle I think.

http://www.geocities.com/palmerlives...ubService.html

 

Quite a few folks clean, regrease and press the bearing back together.
I personally wouldn't trust it though.

 

I had to do hubs in june on my truck.I bought my hubs and rotor as an assrmbly from the dealer.It was very reasonable price i Think around $275.00 per side CDN.Jobbers weren't even close,and if memory serves me right (lol,lol),they jobbers didn't even offer hub and rotor as an assembly.Just my .02
Luc

 

I ordered the Hub assembly this morning, around 216 a piece, I don't think they come with the rotors, I'm hoping they don't cause I already bought a new set of those. I pick the hub's up around lunch time, so hopefully I'll have better luck tonight.

 

Now that I changed the bearing I am getting oil leaking out of the axle tube. Not a lot but there was none before. I was careful to hold the axle up during the change but I guess it wasn't good enough. Is it possible the leak might go away. I don't want to do this all over again PLUS replace the seal. Any thoughts.

 

Watch it for a week, some oil probably made it's way out when you pulled the axles. If it is still leaking after a week, you probably damaged the seal. Which side driver or passenger?

 

Just moving axle around will let fluid get past the seal, you don't even need to pull it out. Give it awhile and it will most likely stop leaking. Make sure your fluid level is at the factory recommended 3/4'' below the bottom of the fill hole. Filling to the bottom of the hole is responsible for a great number of leaks plus makes the diff run hotter.

 

The rubber more than likely deformed while the bearing was off. It may reform to the axle and seal again.
I can just about gaurantee you did not get the rotors with the hubs for that price. If so, I would be leery about using them. The ones I got from NAPA were $380 a piece and Dodge wanted like $572.
If it is the drivers side, you have to pull the gear set out to replace the seal.

 

Thanks, I'll watch it for a week and see what happens. I didn't add any lube and it didn't leak before so I think the level is OK but I will check it later. OH by the way it's the passenger side that I changed.

 

Your lucky, you won't have to pull the ring gear and carrier, just the pass. side and it is "relatively" easy to install the seal through the central axle disconnect hole.

 

Finished up the hub, rotors and brakes on the front this morning, and you can definetly tell a difference, pedal feel is much firmer as well as you do not have to push down as far. Too bad it ran me around 550.00 bucks for all the parts. But I'm sure if I took it to a dealer or a local mechanic, I would end up with a 1,000.00 bill. Oh, and the bearings that were used in that hub unit were TIMKEN, so the hub unit are of decent qualty.

Ok one last QA and I'll drop this thread.. upon removing the right passenger wheel I noticed a wheel spacer, about 1/8 thick. But their was not one on the driver's side? Does anyone know why the spacer plate was their or what it's for, or why it is only on one wheel and not the other?

I ended up putting the spacer back on.


Thanks

 

Yup,

Mines got the same spacer on the pass side none on the driver.

 

The spacer was a stop-gap measure Dodge used that didn't work to try to correct front-end pull, they come in three thicknesses. People who have removed them have noticed no difference. They are usually on the driver's side but get stuck to the back of the rim and accidentally moved in a tire rotation. I've found them on the rear more than a few times.