Ok need a little confirmation on what I'm planning to do. Recently at slow speeds under 10mph I started to here a light repeating squeal near the front driver wheel. But it would stop if you gentle pushed on the brakes, but come back when you let off. So last night I pulled the wheel off and caliper and the rotor is dang near shot and the pads on the caliper.. well lets just say I'm surprised I was able to stop. The inner pad was warped had a irregular edge to it and half of the pad was gone, like it had gotton blown away, not warn away. And if you look at the rotor I was only getting about 1/2 contact with the rotor surface.

So here where I need a little assistance cause the haynes and service manual either are not explaining it to me correctly or I'm just not getting the picture here. I was planning on repacking the wheel bearings, originally to see if that was the squeal problem, but now it has turned into a complete front brake job. However getting back to the bearings, I was unable to get free that 1-3/4" castle nut to get to the bearings. I didn't have a socket that big.

(1) So here's my question(s). to get the rotor off do I need to take that castle nut off or does the rotor just slide off the lug nut bolts and spindle assembly after the caliper is removed? You would think by looking at the whole assembly one could figure this out, mine however had a good layer of rust, so I was unsure if it was whole unit or not.

(2) I stopped this morning to get the rotors and basically the design of the rotors, in essance asnswers my 1st question if they are the correct rotors. I also wanted to get the inner and outer bearings with seal. But the guy behind the desk said he sells those as a HUB UNIT basically if I'm pictureing this right it bolts right to the knuckle itself and bearings are contained in this unit. Is this correct? and it was around 250 bucks woooo

(3) Are the bearings in this unit tapered or are they needle bearings. If so is it recommended to repack those bearings every 40k or so.

Sorry this is so long, but I'd like to finish every thing up tonight, and I'm just trying to forsee problems I'd run into.

Thanks,
7mmrum

 

The bearings are a self contained, pre lubbed assembly. You have to pull the hub assembly to get rotor off the hub. You have to remove the wheel studs and it seperates. Be EXTREMELY careful not to seperate the hub assembly or you have to buy new ones!! (I did )

 

So then to remove the rotor I must remove the 8 wheel studs, basically by hammer. After doing so the rotor should become free from the hub unit. Next put the new rotor on and pull the studs back on through. Is this correct?

 

Yes,

But you must remove the hub/rotor assembly from the knuckle. There are four bolts that you remove from the backside before you pull the H/R assembly.

 

We just did the hub bearings on my sons 94, was a pain in the, er ah, well you know what.
There are four 9/16 twelve point bolts on the back side of the hub assembly that have to come out and then the whole hub will come off providing you have removed the big axle nut. The rotor is actually on the back side of the hub if I remember correctly. If you are replacing hub bearings and rotors, you should be able to build the assembly and put it in place and then reinstall the four bolts.

 

ok,, sounds like a plan of attack then, thanks for the help, sounds like it is going to be fun,

Hopefully the air tools will take some of the fun out of it..

 

It's actually a very easy job providing the unit bearing isn't rusted to the axle. Squirt the axle end under the big nut with some penetrating oil the night before and hope that does it. Otherwise it can turn in to a real PITA.
I've had trouble pounding out the studs before, a press is best. If you don't have one and a soft face hammer isn't doing it put a scrap of aluminum over the stud and wail with a sledge hammer. One good hit will usually do it.

 

OK I have the same situation. I need to replace just the passenger side bearings, they are pretty loose when the truck is jacked up and I rock the wheel. I called NAPA and they have the bearings in stock. Is is alot harder to replace just the bearings or should I replace the entire hub. The bearings only from NAPA will cost :

Inner - $25.00 CDN
Outer - $21.00 CDN
Cup & Cone - $25.00 CDN

About $52.00 USD total - ALOT LESS than the entire hub from the dealer!! NAPA doesn't sell the complete hub.

Do I need a cup & cone?? because i don't even know what a cup & cone is.

Can the bearings be changed in the driveway without air tools or a press?

Thanks!!

 

Somehow I think Napa is leading you astray. Never heard of the bearings being sold other than a complete unit with the housing. Napa does sell the complete setup, it's called a unit bearing and goes for around $200.
They might be quoting you for a 2wd which is the cup and cone type.

 

Your NAPA dealer doesn't know what he is talking about obviously. These bearings are a double row sealed ball bearing that can not be worked. There was one guy on here a while back that found the bearings somehow and replaced them but I don't remember how. The whole hub was $380 per side brand new in the box.
The whole hub is the easiest way to go and don't take a chance when it comes to bearings. Make sure you have a good 12 point socket, not a worn one. We also ordered eight new hub bolts and replaced them, not the wheel studs but the four that hold the hub to the axle on each side.

 

Thanks for the clarification. I did tell the NAPA guy it was a 4X4 and he did SEEM to know what he was talking about but I guess not.

Just to know is there such a thing as a cup & cone as it relates to bearings and not Baskin Robbins?

 

Yes, there are cups and cones. They are the same things, just different names from different people. These are a cone shaped collar like peice that some bearing set in. They are usually associated with wheel bearings. I don't think that dodges have them though.
dave

 

Just to clarify, the 4x4's are the complete sealed bearing unit, the 2x4's are the conventional remove and repack cup and cone style. Sounds like the Napa parts dealer is giving you prices for a 2x4. Good luck, Kevin

 

Farmer Dave,

Just an FYI, the 4X4 dodges are a double cup and cone setup, or double bearing and race assembly. I tried to buy the bearings direct from Timken, I had part numbers, they won't sell them to anyone, they are a restricted part number, only Chrysler and apparently NAPA can buy them.
7MMrum, count yourself lucky that you don't have a 98 with 4 wheel ABS, my hubs were huge dollars, Chrysler wanted $583.00, and $684.00 left and right. I ended up buying from NAPA for $250.00 each after going through a good friend at Dodge.

 

It's funny how you get different answers from different dealers. I called a different NAPA and this one said that you CANNOT buy the bearings by themselves you need the entire hub. - He then said that they do not carry the hubs because the dealer can sell them cheaper. So I checked with the dealer and the said $393.00 CDN (Approx $290.00 USD) for the hub and $717.00 CDN (Approx $530.00 USD) for the hub and rotor, AND they have them in stock.

So after all that I'm going to the dealer.

While searching previous postings I found this link with a great photo discription of the procedure. Thought I would post the link again, maybe it will help someone else.

http://www.geocities.com/palmerlives...ubService.html