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brake and axle question

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Old 01-25-2005 | 11:59 PM
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brake and axle question

ok guys, my 94 has had rear adapters put on for duals. Stock rear end (3/4 ton). I cant seem to get the drums off or the adapters. Do I have to unbolt the axle to get the adapters and drums off? I need to get my brakes fixed because they are locking up. sucks very bad on ice or snow or even at low speeds coming up to stop signs she will lock up the rears. Thanks in advance!!
Old 01-26-2005 | 12:43 AM
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The adapters are probably holding you up, take the adapters off (just like taking the wheels off). The drums are "pop off drums" meaning they're not like the older full floater set ups where you have to unbolt the axle shafts and remove the drum & hub. Theroetically you take off the wheel then pull the drum off. What else may happen once you get the adapters off and try to pull the drum off is a healthy lip on the inside of the drum which is not allowing the drum to get past the shoes. This lip is formed by brake dust and rust and does not come off, unless you have the drums machined or use an abrasive wheel to get the lip off, because the shoes do not contact the full surface inside the drum. What you should do is back off the adjuster, put a small screw driver through the adjuster hole in the backing plate push the auto adjust arm out towards the wheel use a brake spoon or modified flat blade screwdriver to then back off the adjuster as far as you can. Your backing plates may not have the hole punched out as the metal "plug" is perforated you can knock them out with a chisel and hammer then replace them with rubber backing plate plugs. To correctly back off the adjuster find out which way the adjuster unscrews. To do that put your brake spoon or flat blade screw driver in the hole adjust the brakes "up" (ratcheting sound) then put your other small screw driver in the hole to push back the auto adjust arm and turn the adjuster the opposite direction. If you must "hammer" on the drum use a DEAD BLOW hammer and NOT on the outside of the shoe surface area this is BAD! creates hot spots in the contact surface of the drum. "Hammer" just on the outside of the lug studs, this will NOT damage the drum DO NOT hammer on the edge of the drum this is NOT effective except to DAMAGE the drum, just a few pops around the lug circle and generous penetrating oil around the hub it should pop off. Hopefully this helps
Old 01-26-2005 | 12:47 AM
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P.S. the adapters have wheel studs in them, next to each stud there will be a deep recessed hole. In that hole is what holds those adapters to the hub. Probably a 7/8" socket will fit them good luck
Old 01-26-2005 | 08:18 AM
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Thanks for the info, although I have already tried that (sorry for not mentioning). The adapters will not come off at all. wont even budge. Havent tried heat yet as I dont have access to a torch. When I basked off the brakes it seemed better for a short bit but then went back to doing it. Had a suggestion of putting the truck on stands and spinning the wheel then hitting the brakes. But unsure if that would work and I soppose i will have to get the adapters off 1st.
Old 01-26-2005 | 10:53 AM
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It's most likely just rusted on.
Put the rear up on stands, remove both wheels, put one lug nut back on loosely. Now start the truck put it in gear, rev it up and slam on the brakes in both forward and reverse. Gets them every time. The loose nut is so you don't have to chase the drum down the street.
Old 01-26-2005 | 11:01 AM
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I had a hard time getting the rear drums off on my '97 2500. Come to find out, the shoes had worn a groove into the drum, and the shoe was holding the drum on.

Sounds like Infidel's idea is a good one.

have you tried soaking the adapter bolts with a good penetrating oil, and them getting after them with a 1/2" breakover (maybe cheater bar too)? Try tapping (beating..lol) them with a deadblow too. that could loosen up some rust onthe threads.

good luck
Old 01-26-2005 | 03:45 PM
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Soak the rusted items brake fluid. Brake fluid helped pop my drum off with an hour or so soak time. PB blaster, WD-40 had been on there for 3 days with no prevail.
Old 01-26-2005 | 04:09 PM
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To get our drums off our trucks the first time we beat on them with a dead blow for a while. Eventually they came off. Try not to pry them though. You'll just bend the backing plate. After you get it off put a little never seize on the inside of the drom (where it slides over the hub) and on the hub its self. We havnt had any issues getting them off after that in the past 250k miles. Its just the first time thats a bear.
Old 01-26-2005 | 04:10 PM
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oh yeah and your wheels lockiing up. We've had that. Most of the time it was the axel seal going bad and leaking oil into the drum. The last time on each of our trucks was the wheel cylinders went bad and leaked break fluid. If the pads are really soaked replace them. spray down the drums with break cleaner to get the oil/break fluid off and away you go
Old 01-26-2005 | 08:43 PM
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Originally posted by northslope
P.S. the adapters have wheel studs in them, next to each stud there will be a deep recessed hole. In that hole is what holds those adapters to the hub. Probably a 7/8" socket will fit them good luck
Old 01-26-2005 | 09:15 PM
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northslope, I know that!! they still wont come off. Im gonna try the spinning wheel deal and see what happens. Ill keep ya posted
Old 01-27-2005 | 12:22 AM
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10-4 buddy Wasn't clear if you had done that I will gracefully bow out
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