My 95 trucks skids the passenger side, rear tire, on gravel and slick roads when I step on the brakes ,and the truck kinda jerks funny , on normal pavement and at higher speeds it brakes just fine , does anyone know what the trouble could be ?<br><br>the truck has rear wheel abs , is it possible to disconect the abs system somehow ,and if there is ,is better to diconect it or leave it stock?

 

Not that this will help any but.. my front driver side wheel locks up all the time too and it pulls hard to the right (odly enough) I'm also convinced the rear antilock breaks dont do anything since I can lock up the rear any time I please.

 

The first thing is did you pull the wheel and drum. Other then the fact you might need break shoes, it may be the wheel cylinder is leaking and getting on the shoe. Grease may also be getting on the shoe from the rear axle.

 

can a wheel cccylinder be bad if it does not leak?

 

More than likely your shoe on that side is not self-adjusting. When this happens they wear unevenly and then cam into the drum and can cause the lockup you are experiencing. What happens is that the brake cylinder has got to push the top of the shoe out until it contacts the drum. If not adjusted correctly the shoe wears at the top and not at the bottom so when the top goes out to hit the drum the bottom is jammed hard into the drum, causing lockup. Brake shoes will actually flex in these conditions and will go from no brake to mechanical lockup in a very short time. The braking applied in this scenario will not have a linear relationship with the pedal movement - you'll get no braking then lockup.<br><br>Jack up the rear and turn the drum - you should hear a slight drag of the shoe if it is adjusted correctly. If it is not adjusted you will have to spin the star wheel until you hear contact, pump the brake to recenter the shoe, and then turn it until the drag is heard again. Do this several times until you get an even drag and your brakes are back to where they should be.<br><br>Probably the best thing to do is pull the drum and check the shoes for wear pattern and see if the adjuster moves freely.

 

thanks for all the help guys

 

These things have a nasty habit of the rears not working properly. My 95 rears hadn't ever worked and Both adjusters were frozen. A common problem.<br><br>As far as pulling to the right. My 95 also liked doing that. I completely drained and reserviced the front system. Solved the problem. All the other advice you have received, in my opinion, is right on the money. You really need to pull your rear drums and see what is really going on in there.<br><br>Good luck.

 

What kind of brake pads do you guys use ,my front ones only last 20k, I buy mine at autozone there life time garrentied so they give me new ones which is a good deal<br><br>also what is involved in taking the front brake disc off to have it turned<br><br><br>does anybody know of a shop that will time my truck in the ,springfield kansas citey MO. area. <br><br><br>

 

All you have to do to get the rotor off is :<br>1.take off tire<br>2.take off brake caliper( use a 10mm allen wrench)<br>3.take off cotter pin&amp;locking nut (I think its a 1 3/8in socket)<br>4.take the four nuts on the back side of the rotor off (7/8 maybe)<br>5.finally work the rotor back and forth until it comes off<br> I think thats all it takes ,but I might have left out a few things ... not sure. I just had mine turned 2 weeks ago along with putting on a new caliper. Its not to tough as long as you have the right size socket to take off the locking nut .<br> Good luck<br> Wheels

 

[quote author=dsljunkie link=board=16;threadid=11862;start=0#112698 date=1047013834]<br>All you have to do to get the rotor off is :<br>1.take off tire<br>2.take off brake caliper( use a 10mm allen wrench)<br>3.take off cotter pin&amp;locking nut (I think its a 1 3/8in socket)<br>4.take the four nuts on the back side of the rotor off (7/8 maybe)<br>5.finally work the rotor back and forth until it comes off<br> I think thats all it takes ,but I might have left out a few things ... not sure. I just had mine turned 2 weeks ago along with putting on a new caliper. Its not to tough as long as you have the right size socket to take off the locking nut .<br> Good luck<br> Wheels<br>[/quote]<br><br>Sometimes its not that easy. mine took 5hrs and three broken pry bars,two dents in the truck,both hands smashd twisted and blood covered. But I got it off. whatch when putting it back on because I pulled on one side more than the other and it pulled my hob apart and I had to get it pushed back together.<br>DM01

 

On of the main reasons for the front breaks not lasting long is another example that something is wrong with the rear brakes. The front brakes are doing all the stopping. You really need to pull of the rear drums, bet you will find the adjusters frozen, free them up and adjust. You will more the likely solve both problems, front brake ware and locking rear brakes.<br>

 

Nut,<br><br>You've got to pull the rear drums off and take a look. It can be a number of things. Personally, I've seen leaking axle seals and/or wheel cylinders do this. Although not on a Ram, I even seen the shoe retention springs come off and get jammed between the shoe and drum. Lastly if all is a O.K., properly adjust the rear brakes. While your at it - pull the fronts for a peek.

 

I just put new pads on the front so there in good shape I think ill pull the rear drums off today and have a look thankx guys