crabbelle

you can rev past 2300 but it STARTS defueling. if you have 3200 kit it continues to fuel all the way up to 3200 then it starts to defuel.

BigErksG2

2300 rpm is about right for the stock gsk with an auto. i did the 4k gsk on mine but no valve springs yet, i can lock the converter and it pulls hard til 3000 then i let off cuz i like the zing wihtout the boom. the 3k should allow you to do the same thing but anything past 3200 and you need to do valve springs. wether you should do the 3 k or 4k is up to you and it depends on the mods you want to do down the road, if you just want a little more pep and you arnt lookin for a 500hp daily driver you should be fine with the 3k.

Opacity

Thanks for the info!!!!

First things first though, KDP is #1, pyro is #2. GSK and fuel plate are going to be later down the road, I have to make some money with this beast first, which it does nicely so far....

Thanks again everybody, very nice atmosphere this forum has.

BigErksG2

once you get the egt you can grind your own fuel plate and get an easy 100hp. really gives the truck a boost. crank the star wheel too for a little smoke and better throttle response, 2 very popular free mods on these trucks. you might have to stay out of the throttle to save your converter but i did it for 3 months without any problems. good luck my friend.

bob4x4

In nuetral foot on the floor you should see aprox 3k rpm,load applied that will be lower but 2300 is too low.

Bob

AH64ID

You should be able to pull a few pounds vacuum at low rpms with a load, but not much and not for long.... But it will happen... Also when compression braking, as you wont be providing enough fuel to really spin the turbo. the turbo doesnt create a zero pressure situation all the time... there are too many variables... but the air coming from the turbo doesn't allow a huge vacuum to build.

Opacity

bob4x4 that is what I wanted to hear, if it was normal or not. Thank you! Now the reason why it revs too low..... Would having no exhaust after the cat cause this?

I actually get 1.5psi at idle, I never see vacuum and this autometer phantom gauge I am using is VERY accurate, I had it in my supra so I know how this one responds.

This truck is beat, yes it only has 138,400 miles, but it pulled a 16ft trailer, had a dump body and a plow on it since day one. Fuel filler neck leaks allowing water and debris in the tank so I know the fuel system has been neglected. Possibly my low rev problem. Trans was rebuilt twice, and it still slips when cold but once warm, it shifts like a bastard, did a flush, filter change and adjustment per haynes but only helped minimally.

Here's a pic for ya



Any comments?

cromulius

As far as the metal shaving question when tapping for an egt gauge just do it with the motor running. No shaving going anywhere but up.

BigErksG2

bob4x4, no disrespect but you have a 5 speed in your sig. my auto would only see above 2300 rpm if i locked the converter in drive and mashed it for a while. my friend has a 95 5 speed and he has no problem going over 2500 rpm but with the autos its a different story, most likely due to the inefficient junk converters that they come with, too much power is lost in stirring around tranny fluid. i did a 4k gsk and there is an amazing change in driveability thanks to the broader power band. as for tapping the egt probe, i know people that dip the bit a few times in high temp grease as they are drilling. most of the shavings stick to it and if a few do drop in the manifold they will blow right through the turbo when you fire it up. make sure you pick a side of the manifold and dont go in the middle, there is a 1/8" wide vein in the middle.

Opacity

Ok thanks BigErksG2 for clarifying the difference between auto and 5spd rev limits.

It is against my rules to buy a vehicle with an automatic tranny, but for $500 I could not pass this baby up!

Thanks again everyone for their input it is not falling on deaf ears.

BigErksG2

wanna double youre investment? ill buy it!