Long story short, a shop put together my rear hub and bearing assembly together without pre-lube (we figure).

This is a Dana 80 dually axle that I swapped under my truck.

Race spun on the spindle, tore it up.

I've had a few suggestions on re-using this damaged piece:
1. Put Red Loc-Tite under the bearing race, with frequent checking for heat build-up and looseness (all I'm out is a bearing if it goes bad again)
One would think that the Loc-Tite would fill the gaps/gouges that ARE present and server as a temporary filler.

2. Have material welded on and machined off so that the spindle is true again

3. Get a new axle housing. (ditch the whole assembly)

Any suggestions or opinions?

 

Ever thought about making the repair shop fix it? Isn't there something called implied warranty?

 

If you cant get the shop that did the "job" to fix their mistake, look for a good machine shop. They can re weld the area and then re-machine it properly. But you will have to take them the bare housing.

I had a Spicer 70hd in a motorhome that did the same thing, only it got hot enough to twist out of line. machine shop said they could cut it off, make a new spindle w/threads and weld it back on. Fortunately I found a different housing cause the mach shop was'nt goning to be cheap.

 

i think you better look into another rear axle. if nothing else you need the spare parts.

 

Bobcat,

The way you pound on your truck and all the weight that the "sled" puts on it---I would find a good unit and replace yours. It would suck to have a stress riser form and the end break off!!

 

I have fixed the problem you have. This is what I have done. My father made a mandrel that bolted on the housing. He had me cut off the end of axle back past where the seal is. I bevel the end of the housing, just like I would do it if I were going to test.
Dad and I went to a wrecking and cut off the end of a rear end that had a bad gears set. I dont think that the pup or end cost much. I was told that would not work. It will if you have the correct tools. My father was the forman of a large maching shop for a long time. He made the mandrel that has windows the fixture to weld the end that we got in the wreching yard. He could have made the end but is was easer to buy the end off a damaged rear end. You have to bevel the pup or stub end and space it back to the correct length. The two bearing bores and the fixture keep the the end dead on. Just weld the end back on. I used 6010 root and 7018 fill and cap.
The machine shop that my father use to work at had the fixtures and the ends made up for a lot of the big trucks. They could go out on the side of the road if need be and repair the end on the spot. They could jack up the truck. Pull the axle, cut off the bad end, prep the end, place some damp rags to catch the pills and what ever from going up in the differential, bolt on the fixture and weld on the new end. Any way that is a short version. I have done two and no problems Jim

 

Way outta my abilities!!

 

Perhaps but it could be not by someone else of x amount of money. I am not trying to get you in over your head, just options. If you could find some one to replace the end for 200 or 300 that might be cheaper than replacing your end ( not me). If your were closer I would help you as long as you bought a big rib eye lunch. Just kidding, I dont mind helping if I can. My father still has the jig the last time I was in his machine shop. So all you would need is to go out to a wrecking yard and find a bad rear end that is just the housing. Seems that we used off a chev, or what ever, it was not even close to what we had on the truck, just the end was the same. Or just have some one build it in a lathe. I can do that also. If your end is still round and has only flat spots then perhaps.
From the picture it does not look good. There is a fellow about 12 miles west on US 287 from Bowie Texas that rebuilds Dodge truck for a living. He would probably have the rear end. Good luck on what ever you do Jim

 

If repairable (which they think it is judging by the picture), I can have a company called "axle surgeons" fix it for $495 while still under the truck.

 

I did not know what it cost. Time is money and equiment is expensive. If you do the job your self be sure to replace the nylock nuts or you could be doing the job again. That is the reason I had to replace the first end on dads one ton dodge years ago. There is a fellow that told me that I could use the double nut an locking tab to replace the nylock nut. I would not reccomend the job to anyone, but I have been welding for a long time and pass 6g tests, several types good luck Jim

 

this is an old thread...was wondering if anyone knows jimk, or how to get in touch with him. I have a D80 rearend i need to repair.

Thanks,

 

Mike,

Check the yellow pages for flame spray. you will have to strip everything but it is do-able.

 

Thanks, I'll look into that. I think I've seen that but it was done on cast iron. Not sure if its the same thing. Stupid mistake on my part...live and learn I guess.

 

there are mobile repair trucks the will come to you and fix that.. I had that and a I broke off the spindle on different trucks, they machined it right on the truck .
call a truck repair shop they should have the name of a guy that does the axle housing repairs.

 

Thanks. I live in the Madison, WI area so I'm sure there is someone that can do this. Do you recall what the cost was? Or what it might cost so I have an idea? Can't be much as a replacement axle isn't too much.