Anyone on here rebuild their transmissions by themselves? I have a place to do it, time isnt an issue. I have a 10 plate about 1/2 foward and a GSK and 215 injectors and my transmission now cant take it. Id like to rebuild so it could handle about 300 hp, my biggest concern is getting quality rebuild parts and what special tools are needed and the overdrive spring removal and reinstallation? I have a good shop manual, and really want to tackle this project myself. Please chime in with your thoughts. Parts wise im looking at a master rebuild kit, new converter-can i get away with a goerend single disk?, and im not sure what to do about the valvebody. Let me know what you think as far as parts too.

Dave

 

I did mine with Goerend triple disc and valvebody. I would recommend getting a V/B from who ever you get your T/C from it is more money but worth it in my opinion. The only tool I had to make was the OD spring compressor. I used a piece of 3 inch ID black pipe about 2 foot long, cut both sides out of it an inch up from the bottom leaving two sections about an inch and a half wide connected to the rest of the pipe and used my intermediate shaft to line it all up. Check all specs and clearances and you should be good. If you can afford it go with the triple disc you wont be sorry.

 

While there's obviously a difference in the torque converter (yours locks-up) and associated valve-body/input shaft plumbing, yours and mine are VERY similar. With that, this should give you a good idea what you might expect ~ https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=160276

Hope this helps.

 

BC that was a great thread and is largely what inspired me to tackle mine, Thanks for taking the time to put it together.
I'm sure there is varing opinions but a couple things Dave told me was don't remove the roller clutches. He said they rarely need replacing and if removed there is a possibility that because of the tiny dimensional differences in the rollers that they won't seat properly and can then fail. He did say it is a remote possibility but why take the risk mine were fine with 229,000 mls on them. He also talked me out of putting an in line filter on, he doesn't like the idea of any restrictions in the loop.

 

I agree. In hind-sight, if I had to do it again, I wouldn't mess with the roller clutches nor the rear band. In my rebuild, I ordered parts before tearing down the trans. .. . oops.

As far as the in-line fluid filter, I agree whole-heartedly about the concerns over restriction of fluid flow through the circuit. Digging around in Summit's websight, that seen commonly are little dinky 1/4" & 3/8" plumbed adapters running itty-bitty filters. The plumbing on my heap is 1/2" ID.

I opted to a regular engine oil filter adapter that runs 1/2" fittings with the biggest filter I could find (looks to hold 1 quart).

 

You can do a bypass filter setup. Basically you would tee off the tranny outlet line and tee back into the inlet. The difference in pressure created by the oil cooler would be sufficient to push oil through the bypass filter and if any pressure loss were to happen, it would be minimal compared to a full-flow inline tranny filter (not to mention you'd get better filtration too). If I were to add a tranny filter to my truck, bypass is the only way I'd go.