kawi600

Anyone know a source for new cooler lines that have a port for my westach temp sender? I called up a local DTT shop but he just gets updated dodge lines and mentioned they have a single port which gets occupied by the sender for the overdrive (the temp dummy light?)
I really want to upgrade the whole transmission but I cant afford it yet so Im trying to throw a couple bandaid's on it to keep it healthy for a few months.
How safe is it to just upgrade the VB and TC on the thing without doing the complete rebuild? Would a meltdown kill off the new components too (by filling them with metallic debris)?

infidel

You need from the dealer-- Tube, Out, W/temp port for a '94 or '95
The part number used to be CH05011244AA but has changed, sorry I forgot to write down the new number.

kawi600

Scott at Mass Diesel was saying the port on the OEM lines is used by a temp sender already (Assuming I understood correctly).. Im assuming for the dummy light in the dash. Is it safe to replace it?
I was under the truck doing the oil and filter and I noticed theres some lines that run parallel to the front of the trans pan and then go up to the right side of the motor where theres some oil leaking.. whats up there? Looks like some connectors that might be loose.

dodgeramrod

You can take out the dummy light senor, but you need to put a 1000 ohms resistor on it to fool it. On my 96 I had a plug on the hot trans line and just put the sensor right on that. I dont know if all 96's have it but it made mine alot easier.

TNutcher

For the temp port on the hot line for ur auto trany use some NAPA parts. The line is 1/2 inch. Buy a "T" and 2 compression fittings and the necessary adapters to get the right thread size for your sensor. Like this:



Thats on the passanger side under the turbo on the line closest to the firewall going up to the heat exchanger. All you need to do is take off the line at the block (didnt leak) and at the tranny (leaks - need pan or rag to stick in hole) and put it on the bench and cut it with a hack saw or something else that'll do a clean cut. then measure the length of the "T" and compression fittings from where the pipe fits into them and cut the pipe.

Worked pretty well for me (around 10$ ) hope it goes good for you too whatever you do.
TNutcher

infidel

For a '95 do exactly what dodgeramrod said, your trans line already has a port for a temp probe. You must remove the stock sensor and jump across the wires with a 1000 ohm resistor (25¢ from Radio Shack) or your trans won't shift into OD. It will be safe to bypass it as long as you install a gauge and heed it.

If your leak is coming from a trans line it would be very wise to replace it. The plastic connectors on '94-'96 are very well known to fail, leak all fluid in a matter of seconds and trash you tranny. Unfortunately the new metal connectors don't work with the old lines. It's not cheap but way cheaper than a new tranny. I would consider replacing the line more important than a VB and TC.
The upgrade and parts are listed here> http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmissio..._couplings.htm

smoke_pedal

you don't need to spend buku amounts of money to replace your transmission hot line. If you live anywhere near an agricultural store, which I know infidel does, you can find everything you need there. The only one you should have to replace is the hot line coming out of the trans going to the heat exchanger, unless the other ones are already leaking. I had mine blow out, and instead of buying over $200 in parts from the ***********, I went to fleet wholesale supply in Great Falls, MT, and bought a 3/8" hydraulic hose, three fittings, totaling $18. I know I might get some flak for using 3/8" vice dodge's 7/16" ID pipe, but I know of a lot of torqueflites from back in the 60s until the 80s had cooler lines even smaller than that, and didn't have problems.

JKM

If you put a pipe thread fitting into your tranny , it is going to continually loosen , you will never get it to stay tight , the threads dodge uses are pipe threads , but they are straight , not tapered. The only option dodge leaves you with is to replace all the lines with their newer style. OR do what i am doing , get some 1/2 pipe to #8 JIC adaptors , and braze them into the large bell fitting for your old quick connects. you can now use regular hydraulic hoses, with a T in one end (or 2 for a factory/aftermarket sender) . To connect to the 2 lines going to your cooler up by the radiator , take the lines off , take them to the hydraulic shop , and get them to flare the ends , after sliding a JIC compression nut on there, then you can attach hydraulic hose to the metal lines going to the cooler.

I am doing this out of necessity , as i blew tranny lines apart 4 times (yes 4) just this weekend alone, I have everything apart right now , and a buddy at the machine/hydraulic shop who is going to help me get all the parts i need to put this together tomorrow. I will post up some pics when i am done.

infidel

JKM is correct.
The reason I didn't want to mention hydraulic hose is because of the straight pipe thread. People over-tighten trying to stop a leak and end up cracking expensive things.
Didn't want my free advice becoming costly.

kawi600

I wonder if its really necessary to use hydraulic hose or solid lines.. what about generic transmission hose and just cut the ends off and flare them?

tmacie

Ahh this post is jsut what i was looking for. I am in the middle of replacing my transmission with a Goerend while under there removing the old tranny I noticed the two parreleel lines have chaffed holes in eachother and were leaking, grrrr. I guess ill look into the hydraulic hose fix. Are the fittings on the cooler ends the same? I have to replace a line that has the temp/od sensor in it and the one that parrallels it up to the radiator, thats a long line to have going loose or just zip tied up. any suggestions there?


Thanks,
Travis

JKM

The fittings that actually screw into the heat exchanger is the same style as the ones on the transmission , but they are bigger, yet they are also straight pipe thread. The ends that go to the cooler up by the rad use a simple hose barb, which for me is not leaking, so i am going to leave the steel lines from the cooler back to about the bellhousing , where the line with be flared with a JIC compression nut on it. I have all the lines off sitting on my shop floor right now , i will take a picture tomorrow morning , and take some pictures before and after i put the new setup on my truck.


Welding a JIC adaptor into my stock quick connect bell shaped fitting was the only way i found to retain a straight pipe thread. I tried several hydraulic shops , and was even assured in one shop by a self proclaimed hydraulics expert that straight pipe thread does not exist , even though i had the dodge fitting with straight thread in my hand and was holding a caliper on it lengthwise showing him, he assured me it did not exist... so i left.

I will post pics of my fix tomorrow night.

smoke_pedal

yeah, because mine leaks all over the place. I guess I just don't know what I am doing. Actually, it doesn't leak. I have never had to tighten it. The transmission case has tapered thread. The factory fittings have a straight pipe thread. Who is to say that using a male tapered pipe thread is guaranteed to vibrate loose? I guess my transmission lines defy the laws of nature, and in every instance but mine it will vibrate loose. I am sorry for leading you in the wrong direction. Don't do what I did, because it won't work (for 40000 miles without loosening yet).

JKM

I tried a regular pipe thread fitting in mine , and withing 2000 miles i had to tighten it 3 times.

The holes ARE NOT tapered pipe , but if that works for you , then great!

I installed my hydraulic hose this morning, and i have not had any leaks yet. I'll post pictures and a write up tonight when i have more time.

kawi600

What do you guys think of using transmission hose to replace the solid lines to the cooler?
Infidel, I found the lines that were leaking. the fittings went into a bottle up on the right side of the motor and they were a bit loose.