Adjusting AFC, Starwheel
#17
If you have a boost gauge it is much easier to adjust the arm. Adjust to 34 psi. Or in that area I am at sea level so you have to go from there. I would say that you need to adjust about a 1/2 to 1/4 turn in. Go to the back of the pump and take off the screws on the plate. Take the out board one out and loosen the inboard let the cover plate fall down. Here is a diagram of the pump.http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58 Have fun my friend.
#18
AFC/Starwheel/Smoke Screw vs. AFC spring kit
Next for the AFC.....several adjustments there, but not everyone understands them completely. At this point we know that the AFC is there to limit fuel supply during low, or no boost conditions. That's itsa only function, cut and dried, don't let anyone tell you differently. With a stock spring, after about 6 psi, no more AFC influence on the pump...that simple. If you have low tension springs in it, cut that down to about 2 psi. We know that the AFC lever protrudes down into the pump cavity right next to the fuel plate, and at no or low boost, it catches the gov arm and limits fuel that way. So what are we doing by moving the housing forward? We are simply moving THE ENTIRE ASSEMBLY farther to the front of the engine which allows the gov arm to travel farther which allows more fuel....that simple. So what about the star wheel? That wheel acts on a spring that pre-loads the pressure diaphram which is boost controlled. If we turn the starwheel towards the engine, it moves forward, releasing spring pre-load on the diaphram. As this pre-load goes away, it takes less boost to act on the diaphram and move the AFC lever out of the gov arm travel path. We think of these as the fine and coarse adjustments for the AFC, which is not totally true. The coarse adjustment is indeed moving the housing itself. But the fine adjustment is not the starwheel.....it's the so called smoke screw. You don't see this becasue it is on the back of the AFC housing under a sealed cover with a break off crew. This screw actually bottoms out on the diaphram center...from the boost side of the diaphram. And what happens when we add boost? The diaphram moves the AFC lever out of the way right? So by screwing this stud in, we give the lever a head start getting out of the way...much like moving the housing. That is why it is truly the fine adjustment. So we can set the housing in one position, then fine tune that position with the smoke screw. These adjustments alone will influence off idle smoke....not the star wheel. The star wheel will influence how long it takes to come off pre-boost fuel and into full fuel. So lets tune a pump...
Ok, so in the above paragraph, it says that you can achieve the same results by either installing the AFC spring kit OR properly adjusting the starwheel and smokescrew? Of course, even if you install the lighter spring, you probably need some fine adjustments on the starwheel/smokescrew.
Am I understanding that paragraph and the process correctly?
Thanks.
#22
I took the plug out of the top of the pump a few months back and my starwheel was a good bit forward. I don't get a lot of smoke, but when I do it looks to be gray. I assume that my timing has slipped or my LP is shot. Stock position for the AFC is center of the hole correct? I may run it back to stock and see if I get any kind of performance change.
#23
So right now I have a 0 plate with the star wheel all the way foreward. I can turn on a new car's headlights if they have the auto sensor, to save headache adjusting the gov arm (I have another post about my issues there) how much more smoke will I be dealing with disconnecting the AFC? I know it is dictated by the right pedal but I already have to do this now. Just wondering how much more smoke I will have to try and control w/o the AFC.
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latemodelracer2
Performance and Accessories 2nd gen only
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09-15-2005 12:41 PM