adjusters working too well
#1
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adjusters working too well
Short history 6 months ago changed wheel clyinders and rear shoes. When brakeing rear of truck would "hop", after it would lock driver side rear. So I loosened it up. Lately it has been "hoping" again, been meaning to check passenger side. Today after a drive as I passed drivers side wheel I noticed the unmistakeable smell of a dragging brake. Why would an adjuster over tighten, especially on one of these trucks? ( I hear that they don't work well, and never hear of them too well. ) Any thoughts will be aperciated, anyone wanting to give their .02 feel free to PM me for my address .
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Check to make sure that your Ebrake isnt hanging. I had a wheel hop like that the other day when I forgot to release the Ebrake leaving the gas station. Truck pulled good as always till I hit the brake. Instant wheel hop. Ironically I usually recheck the parking brake once i start driving down the road. I never liked the fact that the Ebrake pedal comes back to the top after engaugment.
#3
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Are the new shoes on the right side?
Bigger shoe goes to the rear. It is possible to install them on the wrong side and have the shoes reversed. Only one shoe serves to self adjust, if the wrong one is there you will have problems.
Bigger shoe goes to the rear. It is possible to install them on the wrong side and have the shoes reversed. Only one shoe serves to self adjust, if the wrong one is there you will have problems.
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This does not happen every time I stop. Some days it does it, some not. The whole reason I tore into them was because the passenger side axle seal was leaking. Also changed gear lube in front and rear at the same time. Busy day. I checked the E-Brake cable today. It seemed to not be catching but I was able to push the cable back into the protective sheath about 1/4" or so. Of course today was a didn't do it day so I wasn't able to check the cable after it did it. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Look on the bright side. My rears stink and hardly work. I have the 1 ton cylanders and new pads sitting here while the lines are soaking with penetrating oil. I know that my drums are going to be bad to get off as I let the guy play with them for 1/2 an hour when I got new tires a couple months ago. I may have to try the jack the drop up and slam the brake method. Hopefully we both get our brake issues fixed.
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Agreed. I hope that you don't run into what I did when I upgrade mine. Here's the cut version from my post after I found it.
While rear cover was off started the brakes on driver side, jacked up and removed wheel fine. Drum was another matter, had to beat it off with a brass hammer. Come to find out the shoe retaining pin had either broken or was not installed correctly before and the front shoe was twisted in the drum and rubbing the front of the drum creating a shallow cut in the drum. Also on this side the pin that pushes on the rear shoe from the wheel cylinder was in front of the shoe and not pressing on it at all. Needless to say this is probbaly where my bucking while breaking was comming from and had minimal to no breaking from this side. Went to pass side to check how bad it was going to be. Not bad other than drenched in oil witch I had been expecting.
Good luck on yours.
While rear cover was off started the brakes on driver side, jacked up and removed wheel fine. Drum was another matter, had to beat it off with a brass hammer. Come to find out the shoe retaining pin had either broken or was not installed correctly before and the front shoe was twisted in the drum and rubbing the front of the drum creating a shallow cut in the drum. Also on this side the pin that pushes on the rear shoe from the wheel cylinder was in front of the shoe and not pressing on it at all. Needless to say this is probbaly where my bucking while breaking was comming from and had minimal to no breaking from this side. Went to pass side to check how bad it was going to be. Not bad other than drenched in oil witch I had been expecting.
Good luck on yours.
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#9
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to get the drums off in 10 seconds.....remove the tires and place the rear axle on stands. be sure there is a lug nut on each side of the axle to stop the drum from flying off, start the truck and put in gear.....now with the rears spinning....hit the brakes. if the drums are BADLY worn you may need to back up the adjusters to get em off, but not usually.
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I know exactly what you mean high country. I am going to try and avoid that method as I dont trust my jackstands that much. If I do end up that way I will be stacking some logs under the axle also as an added safety margin. I have to finish the injector install before I do the brakes today or tommorrow. My pipe wouldnt fit over the dog ring on the injector body so I called it a day yesterday. New pipe in hand and a ton of things to do to the truck.
#11
Originally Posted by Dodgecaveman
Short history 6 months ago changed wheel clyinders and rear shoes. When brakeing rear of truck would "hop", after it would lock driver side rear. So I loosened it up. Lately it has been "hoping" again, been meaning to check passenger side. Today after a drive as I passed drivers side wheel I noticed the unmistakeable smell of a dragging brake. Why would an adjuster over tighten, especially on one of these trucks? ( I hear that they don't work well, and never hear of them too well. ) Any thoughts will be aperciated, anyone wanting to give their .02 feel free to PM me for my address .
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