redramnc

Found out why the AC stopped working on my 96 - clutch is trying to run away from compressor. Too many expensive things in front of it that could be damaged if it lets go so I am going to be changing it out ASAP.

NAPA has just the clutch for $82 where everybody else says pump comes with clutch or vice versa. FWIW shop cost at the dealer was the cheapest new unit price at $342. Carquest was $581 new, $469 reman - Advance was $271 reman (and I haven't had any luck with Advance reman anything in the past).

Question I have is what is involved in getting clutch separated from the compresor? Does the charge get dumped in the process like a York compressor or is it just a bolt-on?

At 140K miles I am leaning toward replacing the pump and being done with it. But since the pump still feels good when turning by hand I might be tempted to do the clutch now and see how far it takes me.

Haven't seen too many threads about AC so I am wondering - Anybody else had AC troubles/ how many trouble-free miles on your AC? Looking for trend to see what kind of life the AC has on our trucks. Thanks in advance.

Smokee

I think that you need only change the clutch. The change is very easy. You need to loosen the 14mm nut at the front of the compressor and then "ease" the assembly off of the front. In all likelihood, the problem is merely the little springs on the field plate actuator (?) that are broken, and changing the plate will be enough.
If you need to change the whole clutch, you will need to have a pair of inner and outer snap ring pliers, and then just ease the field coil off.

There are instructions for the process on the website for the compressor....Http://www.sanden.com/support/index.html .

redramnc

Thanks for the link and the PM, Smokey.

Stopped by NAPA and the guy sheepishly told me that when he went to pull the p/n for me he looked at it and it turned out to be just the hold-in coil, not the clutch. Of course, all they have with a clutch on it is a reman compressor at $380.

So I am still looking. Gonna call Sanden today and see if they will deal with a lowly end-user like myself who happens to have a retail parts license for buying wholesale.

Anybody know what size thread bolts to use for pulling the clutch off? I figure they are metric and my limited metric assortment (very limited - I am an old musclecar and tractor guy) did not include a match, much less the three needed. Look like M8 but threads look coarser than standard metric. Got run out by a thunderstorm or I would have tried some SAE bolts just to make sure.

redramnc

Sanden gave me Southeast Air to call - they say that they probably have the clutch separate from the pump but I have to get the model number off the pump. Back under the truck with a can of Brakleen I go. If this works out I will post what I find.

Smokee

RedRam, before you remove the field coil, check it for continuity. It is likely OK.

You do not need any special wrenches to remove the clutch. The front nut is a nylon locking nut, 14MM. The only difficulty is figuring out some way to hold the plate while you get the first turn to loosen it(there is a special tool). I used a large pipe wrench and VERY gently held the plate while I loosened the nut. Reverse to reinstall.

Gently pry the plate off with two screw drivers.

Be careful not to lose the small spacer washers behind the plate. You should have about 25 thou between the plate and the field coil.

IF you need to replace the holding coil, use inner and outer snap ring pliers. There are no nuts, no pullers. Just use the screw drivers, as per Sanden instructions.

You can get the clutch at this link that Stamey sent me for a clutch only: http://www.acsource.com/product.asp?...=300&3=276

Good luck,
george

redramnc

Southeast Air has clutch on the way to me. I'll check out other link, too.

redramnc

Now that I can post from home I can add that I got same price from Southeast Air for same clutch. Alot better than having to change out a $400 pump and clutch assembly and then have to evacuate the system and recharge it. My clutch is stuck on real good so I will have to use a puller to get it loose. Just enough space in there to get a short puller in front and lined up.

Thanks for the tip.