patdaly

Finally got around to doing the pre filter and fuel filter. I think I was more intimidated by the thought of doing it, but this weekend it had to be done.

Pre-filter went much smoother than I had anticipated, though the only way to get at it was a long extension and swivel. that done, I dug into the fuel filter.... on mine, the only way to get that puppy out is from the bottom, more on that later. Overall, it wasn't too bad, but I couldn't seem to get it to seal, finally after the 3rd time trying, I decided to break out the FSM. ( and paid for the thing with the first use! ) You see, I remember someone here saying right at 25 Lb/Ft. torque on the nut, and man, you should have seen the fuel shower I got even tightening it more! So, digging into the FSM, I see there is a locating tab and slot that the filter housing must index into. If I had not seen that in the FSM, I doubt I would have ever seen it on the truck! So, for those of you first timers, make sure slot A lines up with Tab B, because otherwise you will try to tighten it up too tight and break your housing.

Now, for those of you who are considering getting a Western snowplow, and require the Electrical Isolation module, don't mount it on the drivers side inner fender where it seems logical to mount it, it restricts your access to both the pre-filter and the fuel filter to the point it isn't fun at all to get your arm down there.

On to the questions!
First, my FF was black and plugged to the point where I had unstable idles at times, yet driveability wasn't really compromised that much. I do see it spool much better, and it is much faster, but not so much that you could really say it was time to change the filter based upon the drive.

1.) My pre-filter was pretty clean, but I had a bunch of metal fine shavings in the bowl. Any of you ever see this, is it normal? Perhaps the previous owner got into some bad fuel, I will keep an eye on it the next time I do the prefilter.

2.) My old filter was square as opposed to the new Cummins branded filter, which is cone shaped. Has there been a change in the 97-99 fuel filters recently, or could it be a no-name filter?

3.) I also found some smaller metal fines on the intake side of the filter, but none on the output side, does that sound about normal? Once again, I will be changing it again right before cold weather hits, so I will keep an eye on it.

4.) Finally, the question I most want answered. What I went to put my foot in it the first time after the FF change, it rolled coals like a super stock tractor puller, and I mean serious fog! This is a stock truck, and after it burned out whatever it was, I now have just a wee bit of black on hard acceleration. Could it have been plugged for so long that I had soot buildup in the combustion chambers and that is what was fogging the country?

Any answers will be greatly appreciated.

wcbcruzer

I recall seeing some sediments in my pre-filter bowl as well. I don't remember seeing metal shavings in the fuel filter though. The smoke was probably just congestions of carbon. At least it's fine now.

patdaly

Thanks wcb,

I kind of figured the shavings came from wherever the previous owner pumped his fuel from, but since I am such a newbie, I figured I might as well ask.

The more I think about it, I believe my Cat was the source of the fog. That filter had to be fairly seriously plugged before I bought the truck because now it feel like it has 2X the power it did prior. I think I just never could get the cat hot enough to clean her out.

Hmmm, I think it is time for Kitty to have a heart attack and fall off.

And oh yea, shes FINE. I grow to love this old 12V more and more, pretty quick its gonna mean more to me than my dog.

I might be in trouble when she displaces she whom must be obeyed's place in the world though.

R Walter

The fuel filter on a 96 is not so bad if you have a 3-way elbow.

halfpint23

Yeah.... I was lookin' at that filter when I was doing the GSK and fuel plate this weekend. I wanted to do the throttle lever adjustment Piers Diesel recommends, too - it made perfect sense to me!
http://www.piersdiesel.com/TechLeverAdj.htm

and that little bugger turned into the worst part of the whole project. Those pretty cutaways they show in the instructions don't say one darn thing about having to come in the back end of the AFC housing, which you cannot see without a mirror, nor do they mention that very thin locknut with its rounded shoulder - of four good six-point sockets, only ONE would even halfway stay on that darn locknut, which is inside the housing by a bit over an inch, on an assembly that MOVES, and is slightly offset from the edge of the access port to boot - so you have one heck of a time coming onto it at a 90 degree angle of attack. So, the socket wants to slip off the rounded thin locknut..... repeatedly.... and again... time out to go throw things....

Associated problem is lack of room to work - I ended up using a 1/4 drive long socket (thinner wall for better clearance) and my new toy, a nifty 1/4 ratchet that spins when you twist the handle - either way. Man is it ever cute... and I would not have got the adjustment done without it.

THEN there's the screw for the actual adjustment. It takes a real stubby screwdriver, as the dadburn fuel filter is RIGHT THERE. Both of our stubbies were too fat to fit in the slot. I ended up with a sewing machine screwdriver, one with the little side wingies on the handle. Everybody needs one.

THEN I needed the triple jointed elbow mentioned above, and I have the bruises to prove it. I had the fuel shutoff solenoid wired in up position, OK, but you have to MOVE the throttle linkage to see what you are adjusting for, AND get the screwdriver in the slot, which you have to use a mirror and flashlight aimed "just right" down that 1-inch wide hole past your strained fingers, to see - for which you have to get your bifocals lined up just right - dammitall, a cramp - time to go throw things again!.

It was a total pain in the elbow, and my poor lower back is paying the price today - but man, does the truck run good! That lever adjustment is the cat's meow for the middling plates. Throttle response is super smooth and sweet, and the GSK with the four plate seems to be just what we wanted.

Oh, barring the engine over to flop the Governor springs over - don't bother with doing it from the back with a barring tool, it takes days.... Put a breaker bar on the damper bolts (use a long socket) and spin it from there - you have the timing slots in the damper to judge where you are for the second spring set. I went in from the top for the spring kit - no way could I have seen what I was doing from the side - and though it was a few hair-raising moments with things dangling off the magnet, all went well. I made a tool - a spanner driver - cut the middle out to the measurement I mic'ed before disassembly, which on ours was 0.05 inch. This gave me an initial adjustment point that was easy to set for both sides.

Still want to do a little bit of starwheel tweaking to balance the turbo's spooling up to the new fueling, but am overall pleased with results.

Now, about that inaccessible fuel filter - has anybody moved it out to a remote (more easily accessible) location? and why isn't the fuel strainer (water separator sump) at a low point, like in airplanes?

clutch1

there should be a clear tube that hangs down next to the starter connected to the drain.

halfpint23

.....to see the bloody drain. ABS unit and a lot of brakelines, big wiring harness and several little ones, linkage to the p-pump, etc etc. I can "feel" the strainer, but can't find a drain hose - maybe should look into putting one on it.

This filter canister looks like a bugger to change out from a reaching it standpoint - hence my query on a remotely located filter unit. I found the FASS things, but man, they are pricey.

wcbcruzer

If you loosen the 2 brake master cylinder bolts so you can move it a little, it's easier to access the fuel filter. It's actually not that bad. I was looking at it thinking it was going to be a major PITA to change out, but it wasn't too bad using the method I just said. Don't refill the new fuel filter with fuel either, it'll spill everywhere. Just put it on (lubing the gasket) and then use the hand pump to fill up the filter with fuel.

patdaly

halfpint, check this thread out:

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ight=prime-loc

I made the decision not to use one right now, but after I finish my mods I might just do it.

I believe Genos Garage still carries them.

wcbcruzer

I wouldn't get one even if I was done modding my truck. Cause even if you think you're done, you never know for sure. Maybe you wanna put it back to stock sometime. Plus, it costs a lot of money and changing the fuel filter is really not that hard once you do it. On top of that, you only gotta change the fuel filter every 15k miles or so. That's like once a year for most people.

halfpint23

Thanks, patdaly, I was just looking at the Geno's Garage page for that kit - and thinking it was smack over the top of everything I'd been mucking around in all last weekend, LOL!

The thread in the link provided was good info - though I'm betting my stubby body and arms will NOT reach around from top to bottom in stuffing a new filter up from under the fender well..... have to get hubby to reach in from top, or put filter in a ziplock and just stick it up on something handy til I can get back up on my perch. Five-foot-four old ladies and 4x4 one ton trucks are not a good fit from the fender height aspect......

Since ours is a flatbed, we've got loads of mounting positions along the frame rail to remote the separator unit - I may have to have a nice heart to heart with my John Deere parts guy and see if he's got any nifty electric supply pumps to go with relocating the filter/separator unit. It's a pipe dream for right now anyhow - too much other stuff to do!