bfrog4211

Guy at work just inherited a 96 with 124k miles. Automatic, x cab. GREAT shape. He wants to get rid of it cause it's a dog. He's asking $5500. I told him about this forum, told him to check it out, before he really decides to ditch this truck.

I've heard of simple upgrades that don't cost an arm and a leg. I'm a 24V'r and don't know what I'm looking for here. Anyone that can help out, steer me in the right direction as what to search for?

Thanks!!!

cowboy_trucker

my sig is a good start for him. other then the clutch of course. I dont know what he needs for the tranny, but someone will chime in Im sure

cowboy_trucker

i thought there was more about the pump in my sig. Grind the fuel plate, slide it forward and slide the afc housing forward and he can cook that tranny in a day

bfrog4211

Are there any illustrations on the fuel plate anywhere. That's the most common mod I've heard of.

bj-666

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/maint/2nd_Gen-12v.htm
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/turbo_faq.htm

these should help with some basics
also check tst products for a dowel pin repair kit a must!

you can also search on here for trans and find tons of reading that basicly says if your trans is newer you can get away with installing a performance valve body and torque converter if it's older you should look at a rebuild with the above items. the trans really makes the truck seem like a dog until it gets upgraded the pump mods will just shorten it's life.

displacedtexan

To get more power out of your 12v the first and foremost investment is a good set of gauges. These are a must anytime that you are adding more fuel to your mix. At the very least a Pyro, a boost gauge is really nice to have, and if you have an auto, a tranny temperature gauge is nice as well.

A governor spring kit, referred to as a GSK is a wonderful investment that widens your normally narrow power band from the 12 valve engine and allows you to fuel hard to at least 3200 RPMS or so, before it starts to defuel, this is all dependant on your governor arm adjustment and your plate positioning. You can buy the kit, or shim it with washers, do a search for the "free GSK" there is a pretty lengthy thread on it.

A Torque, or fuel plate should come next. NO one really follows the plate guide anymore and the most popular plates nowadays are 100, 10 and a zero plate.

More commonly referred to as fuel plates, they come in different numbers to explain how "aggressive" (for lack of a better term at the moment) that they are 11, 10, 8, 6, 5, 0, and 100, zero being a flat plate that bombards the pump with fuel, and a 100 being a ten plate curve with no top end defueling, much like the zero.. The plate goes in the P7100 injector pump, It goes under what is called the AFC housing, which has a little starwheel on it, the starwheel can be accessed with the removal of the hex dealy using the the right hex head size plug, and you loosen it for more smoke, and better lower end, and tighten it for the inverse. Use a good screwdriver.... furthermore... You will see four screws there where the starwheel is, two that are flat, one that is possibly a breakoff screw that can be a real pain to remove, take a hammer and good screwdriver and bang the tar outta it, it will come off, if that fails, left hand drill bit... Looking down the driver side, the top left hand is the breakaway, and the top right is a regular screw as well, the bottom two are 8mm bolts and you need to get around to one that is in the back of the AFC housing that holds that fuel shutdown solenoid in place...

The other tricky bolt is the one (if you look down from the drivers side) behind the Fuel shutdown solenoid (electronic hooked up deal that bolts in front of the injector pump, easily removed with in my case an 8mm (and most should be too) socket and pull out the two bolts. when you undo those you will notice that there is one in the back that is holding the housing, you can just loosen the one in the rear using a deep 8 mm socket and just move the shutdown solenoid out of the way, (downward) and then you can get to the plate..

When you are in there its simple, you just remove the stock plate and put the other plate in place of that one. NOTICE you have some play here. Sliding it forward of the stock position will net you more power, sliding it back will reduce the power.

Now put it back together and you are done. Installation is simply the reverse of removing it. Having a magnetic tip screwdriver REALLY HELPS. As you are putting the AFC housing back on you will notice that you can also slide it forward and backwards a bit as well, sliding it forward increases the low end fueling as well.

To increase the boost you will usually have to plug the wastegate line, it is the one that goes to the wastegate from the back of the AFC housing, you can get a boost elbow from many different vendors to increase the boost, or some just disconnect the line and plug it by clamping a screw in the end of the hose to keep anything from going in the hose.

Install time, for a newbie, well it will take you about a couple of hours at most. Your only real problem might be that break off screw, especially if your truck is stock, However, nothing a good strong screwdriver and some persuasion cannot take care of.

Which plate is right for you? A 10 is generally considered the best all around plate, many guys run a 100 for a little more to end, and guys that drag race and such tend to like the really heavy low end fueling of the zero plate.

There is no one setup that works for everyone, you may have to make some adjustments to the plate, AFC position, or starwheel to get it set to your liking and needs as far as power, responsiveness, and smoke.

Either ways, you are going to need a clutch or tranny work if its an auto. And your EGTs will tell you when you need an intake and exhaust to help keep the temps down. Neither of them will gain you power alone, but they can help you get more from the fuel that you already have.

The next step is usually advancing the timing, which requires more advanced skills, and special tools.

Here are some cutaway pics of a P-Pump, they should help you understand how things work- http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=182

catnfool

you could pm me with his #...

bfrog4211

Sorry...spoke with him again today....it's a 91, reg cab. Mileage was correct. I looked at it in more detail. Pretty nice truck. 2 tone grey on white. Little damate on passenger bed. Overall, for the year and mileage...good looking truck.

I don't have his number. I will get it tomorrow.

catnfool

sorry about that bfrog- If it was a 96 ext cab for $5500, I was going to talk to him about buying it from him. I should have been more clear about that I bet if you talk him into driving it for a month, he will be hooked for life after a few simple bombs. Getting as good or better mpg as a Toy pickup WITH the Toy in the back is fun

sabercat

The breakoff screw, do you break the head of it off, or put a slot/cross in it and unscrew it, to be used later to put back on, or new screw?
Any gains by just turning the star wheel alone?
Also what is forward, to the front of the truck, is what I assume, but had to ask. Thanks

I have a 94 ctd, but the pump is stock, person I bought it from said he thought it had some thing done to it, maybe diff injectors, but it smokes like hell, and will even sound like its running on 5 cylinders, just for a tad, after warm, runs good. Person told me, it could be a injector leaking down. wanted to mention, my drive is about 800' long, it will be all blue, wider and 30' high with smoke, putting down it, in 2nd gear, get on the road, hit third, seems to clear up. Thanks again

displacedtexan

You can drill the head off and remove the stud by hand, I cgiseled a slot in it and unscrewed it and replaced it.

The starwheel controls low boost fuel, there are some gains to be had by playing with it. Loosening it will increase smoke, and responsiveness.