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95, real slow, no power, help me out here

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Old 07-14-2006 | 05:30 PM
  #31  
rhino 660's Avatar
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From: sebring fl
my 94 was the same way i could get out ran by a skate boarder. all stock
turned up the "star wheel and moved the plate full foward and it was drivable. also a torque converter and valve body helped dramitically in accel and way better mpg.
Old 07-14-2006 | 10:47 PM
  #32  
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My friend had a 95 that did the same thing, we checked it out, ends up the shutdown solenoid would pull half way and allow engine to run but make very little power and no boost. a complete dog. try disconnecting the shutdown lever and wire the lever back.
Old 07-15-2006 | 12:26 AM
  #33  
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Make sure the your getting full throttle. I have seen a few people replace a pump and not check the linkage. Have someone hold the peddle to the floor with it off, then try to roll the lever on the pump by hand.
Old 07-15-2006 | 01:29 PM
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Timing timing timing. Yes, they can idle VERY smoothly, and make less clatter than stock doing it. Throttle response is terrible, they rev slow, won't get out of their own way, etc.

Also, throttle cable stretch. Easy way to check-have someone step on the accelerator (engine off) and observe how the pump linkage is moved. Now, have them let off, then floor it and hold it. Reach down and try to move the pump linkage further in the direction it moves when the pedal is pressed. If it moves much at all, there's all or most of your problem.
Old 07-15-2006 | 02:27 PM
  #35  
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If no one has covered this - the wg diaphragm could be ruptured, or the manifold air pressure lines to the AFC and wg cannister are cracked, loose, broken, etc.

No manifold pressure, no fuel control, little-to-no Boost = woof woof
Old 07-15-2006 | 02:46 PM
  #36  
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If the wastegate diaphragm is ruptured, the result will be excessive boost (assuming there's enough fuel to produce it), not too little boost.
Old 07-15-2006 | 03:46 PM
  #37  
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If the wg diaphragm is ruptured, Boost to the AFC will bleed off = no fuel = bow wow
Old 07-17-2006 | 10:20 AM
  #38  
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95 dodge

Originally Posted by 90dodge
well today i went and looked at a 95 12v 4x4, auto, with 166k on it. nice looking truck.COMPLETLY STOCK!!!

when i drove this truck it was a dog. real slow. no boost at all.the turbo isnt spooling. and is realy slow. trannys slipping some from 3rd to OD.

well this is what has been done to the the truck in the last couple weeks sence the dealer got it. because " somthing wasnt right "

injectors tested, and re-set.
I/P went through, found nothing rong.
fuel filter changed
lift pump checked
fuel lines checked
tank checked, and found a good amount of water. new breaks all the way around, and front rotors.
4 new tires

well after all this the truck ran better than it did when the dealer bought it.
the dealer dosent know enough about the cummins to relise it still got a problem untill i told him. i even took him in a ride in the 1st gen and told him that the 95 should run better. he really wants to fix this truck before he sales it to me. if not i am going to buy it as is, for a lot cheaper than the asking price. i just want to figure out whats rong first

i checked if it was getting air, it is.
couldnt find any boost leakes.
it dosent smoke at all. so i am guessing this is a lack of fuel some where.
who ever had this before has had the turbo off, it has real new gaskets, abd bolts.
ANY IDEAS? i can get this truck pritty cheap, but i want to know whats going on with it first. he really dosnt want to sell it to me "as is". but either way, if he pays to get it fixed, its not going to affect the price.

does any one have any ideas?

thanks bob.
I have a 95 4x4 with 3.54 gears and automatic. I did all of the things that was reccomended, filter, screen, lift pump, overflow valve. Now that was before I ever heard of internet. Finally I bought a timing tool from snap on an set the timing to 17. Beware there is two different setting for a 95, two different cpl, so different mm of lift.
Timing is the only thing that gave me more fuel economy. I have slid the stock plate all the way forward. Now I have a 10 plate all the way forward, again check the lever adjustment. The AFC housing all the way forward and loose. Not a good idea because of heavy fueling at low thottle angles is bad for an automatic. I have a governor kit that I bought from Piers.
I have also installed 215 injectors and used the thin washers 020? I think. That helped some. I am making 275 or 280 hp not sure and it does not matter really. I have a stock transmission and not problems yet with 128 k miles. I use the truck to tow. Last weekend I towed a load of 10 inch pipe some of it was heavy wall. I had two layers on my 20 foot trailer. It was a job. good luck an be safe Jim
Old 07-17-2006 | 10:24 AM
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Jim,

You're right on the heavy fueling on an auto-high torque at low throttle angles wants to slip the trans because the trans isn't running high pressure too keep the clutches from slipping-it assumes that torque is still low.

Also, I found out the same thing as you on the timing. Running mine from stock (13.5) to 16.5 gave me about 1 3/4 mpg, hand calculated.
Old 07-17-2006 | 12:14 PM
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power

Originally Posted by v8440
Jim,

You're right on the heavy fueling on an auto-high torque at low throttle angles wants to slip the trans because the trans isn't running high pressure too keep the clutches from slipping-it assumes that torque is still low.

Also, I found out the same thing as you on the timing. Running mine from stock (13.5) to 16.5 gave me about 1 3/4 mpg, hand calculated.
I had forgot about the solenoid, and the linkage on the pump. My wastgate is not by passed and I can make 31 psi or so.
Anougher band-aid for the transmission is a little throttle stop that I made to go under the throttle lever on the transmission to keep more low rpm pressure and higher shifts points at part throttle. I have heard it was a rigging but my transmission is STILL working. I tow in 3 gear lockup if there is a weight or drag on trailer. Overdrive is not as important as I once thought. Good luck Jim
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