how do u tell if u have the 53 block ( this is the 1 that cracks right ? ) im looking at a 97 do i need to be worried ?? thanks,scott

 

either no1 understands what im asking or no1 knows ???

 

Found this on the TDR site posted by MedicCummin:<br><br>Quote:<br>Just a note <br>After reading this post any many more like it I decided to check mine also. I believe some people are looking at the wrong number in regards to the long, smaller, hard to read numbers and the location of the numbers. My block unfortunately has the dreaded 53, mine is stamped on both sides of the block directly across from each other towards the front. you must look from under the truck to see the 53. I also have a list of numbers i.e. 8141010 or something close to that, hard to read, these are just above and a little towards the rear of the 53, seen from under the truck and through the wheel well. I'm just curious if some that are seeing the list of numbers are not getting under and looking closer, as I did the first time I looked. I saw the list and figured I did not have the 53, but after a closer look there it was. So don't take this the wrong way but if see a list of numbers I would go underneath and look a little closer. Only speaking from experience.<br>OOps one more thing my build date was 5-00 in Mexico<br><br>Hope this helps [undecided]<br><br><br>

 

The 53 block is a 6 mm thick casting. This block causes or rather can cause a problem with cracking ONLY on 24 valve motors. The 24 valve engine has different harmonics and vibrations than a 12 valver. For this reason, a 12 valver has no worries. The 53 number is best seen from under the truck on the drivers side. Look for it on the block just above the oil pan.

 

OK, so the last post I saw on this was over a year ago. Is there still believed to be no concern with a 12v 53 block? I am shopping for a 98 12v and don't know if I need to be concerned, I am planning on BOMBing this so would be worried about the cracking problem.

And let me tell you, searching for 53 is tough since the website won't let you use two characters in the search!

 

I believe the first 53's were in the 98 12V engines. Make sure you chack it out. The 53 is cast into the block right above the oilpan and the numbers are about an inch high. If you see anything else...its not a 53

 

A picture is worth a thousand words.

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

 

Great, but is the 53-block a problem in the 12v or only something to be concerned with on the 24v? Or since I am planning on some heavy mods, do I need to be just as worried?

 

Some '98 12 valves have the 53 block. Best to check.

 

But just because they have them, doesn't mean they are a problem, does it?

 

Hmm, how to word... well the 53 block was a design flaw in which they "saved" material and weight. It was affected by high horsepower and normally the biggest factor is high strain (pulling a load through the moutains). Do I know of a single 12V failure off hand? No I do not. Is it possible it will happen? Well I see no reason why it couldn't as the design flaw should affect the 24V and the 12V the same. The 12V only had the 53 block for 6 months at most, so there aren't many out there that can fail in the first place. It is rare to have a 53 block fail, it is rare to have a 12V with a 53 block in it (only possible during 1998 production) so the numbers of failures in 12Vs are basically null.

 

See that is my problem, I am looking for a 98 12v...

 

As am I, but I'm not that concerned with it just because I haven't heard of any failures. While I'd like to have it push 600rwhp I don't think this is really all that strenous on it unless it is pulling a huge load which I doubt I'll do much if any of.

 

Ive got a 98 12v that has a 272 block. Not saying the 98 12v 53's arent out there, but not many have 53's. Just check the block when you look at the truck.

 

Is there any dependence on build date for the 53 blocked 12Vs?