I've been reading and reading on the "53" block problems some have been having, and was curious. Am I correct in the assumption that the "problem" "53" block was only used in the 24 valve motors, from 1998.5 and up? Or, has it been found that some of the 12 valve motors, say in the 1996-1998 trucks, been found to have this block also?
thanks,
coadman

 

yes

 

Some '98 12 valves have the 53 block

 

My block is a 53 and no troubles yet knock on wood. I tow for a living and with 450,000 km on the truck no major work yet. Does anyone know if all 53 blocks have the same problem and what the life expectancey is out of it Thanks

 

Actually the 53 blocks in the 12-valve version are the {POWER BLOCKS} so to speak. from what I have heard! I am sure someone else hear will shed some light on that issue! I had one, and I sold it!

 

how do I find out if I have a 53 block?

 

If its a 53 block, it will be stamped "53" right on the block, undernieth the injector pump, right above where the oil pan meets the block towards the front of the block, crawl under the truck, with aflashlight and a rag,{PUT A PAIR OF SAFETY GLASSES ON!}{SAFETY FIRST! } the rag is incase you need to wipe the block off a bit! if you do not see the #53, stamped on the block, you aint got one!

 

My feeling is unless you are looking to buy a used rig or an excuse to sell the one you have now why bother looking?
There is nothing you can do to avoid a failure that most likely will never happen.
All knowing you have a 53 will do is cause you needless worry.

 

Your are wright I would just like to know since the bug has been put in my ear I don't know what the major concern about the 53 block is? What is it?

 

THE major concern is paying $8 k to have a new shortblock put in....seems kind of steep to me...especially since its a flaw that is the result of Cummins trying to cheap out.

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

 

why would you need a new shortblock? it's basicly a "cosmetic" crack... the horizontal strength rib is uneffected. the strength of the block isn't compromised.

just have the crack welded and be on your way... or, put your recip assembly in a new block.

Forrest

 

I checked for the numbers and all I found were 10G7 in the area described to look. Is this a block number? I saw another set of numbers in the middle of the driver side also 256 as I remember.

 

As far as I know you need to find a preetty good welder to weld cast iron, as is tricky.....I suppose some of the fixes (loc and stitch) that are surfacing would do ok...

 

If you have a "53" block, the big worry is the cracking that is caused by erosion from cavitation. Also, the block is half as thick as the non-53 blocks, so it is not a good candidate for major power increases.

The best bet is to drain all the coolant, and evacuate all the water based solution from the heater core, and then go to Evans Cool. Evans Cool will not cavitate, so that eliminates that source of worry.

The problems with the 53 block rarely show up in a 12 valve engine as the valve train harmonics are such that it causes less torsional vibration than when the same block is used in the 24 valve configuration.

Also, do not fall into the high priced engine trap. If the dreded day does happen, and you have to locate a new engine, you can get all the rebuilt 12 valve 6B's you want from R&G Machining for $3,300 exchange. They are in Mulino, Oregon, and can be reached at 800-823-6038.

 

12-valve blocks are not the same casting as the 24v block. I doubt a 12v 53 block would have the same defects as the 24v block.

I believe the 53 designator is a specific foundry, not casting design.

Vaughn