I've checked around and alot of people recommend the 4000 gsk with the smaller pump like I have. How do you or can you install the heavier valve springs with the head on? I know on the hotrod you just hook up the air commpressor to the spark plug hole and tthe air will hold the valves up. What do you do on a diesel? Some people dont seem to bother with the springs unless you use an ebrake. So what do you guys have to say about it?

 

I put the valve springs in mine so I didn't have to worry about hitting over 3200-ish with the stock ones. I just rotated the engine backwards from the alternator nut(7/8 I think) until the intake side closed. If I remember right as you go "the wrong way" the exhaust opens first, then as it closes the intake opens. Just after the valve closes the piston will be at the top. Before you release the valve lock(with the spring compressor still on) you'll feel the valve hitting the piston, so no need for compessed air. It's been over a year now, but I do remember # 5&6 valves being a real pain. I found a cheapie little compressor, it barely fit and lasted just long enough to finish on the #5&6. I rented one from Autozone for the rest of em.

 

hotmopr

I have an email I got from Piers a while back that gives a quick and very understandable procedure for changing / adjusting valve springs. I'm not on my home computer right now so I'll have to post this either tonight when I get home or tomorrow if I don't / can't get to it tonight. I also bought a Lisle brand valve spring compressor that is supposed to work nicely for getting the number 5 & 6 cylinder springs on and off - I'll get the part number for that too.

Steve

 

hotmopr,

Here's the instructions I got from Piers for valve adjustments. The tool I bought is a Lisle p/n 16750 valve spring compressor for removing/installing valve while the head is on the engine. Good luck on your project.

On the Cummins B series motor you can change the valve springs on 2 cylinders at a time. The thing to remember is that # 1 & 6 are paired, # 2 & 5 are paired & # 3 & 4 are paired.
You’ll need a KD 2078 valve spring compressor; about $25.00 @ PDR or any tool place that handles KD tools.
• 3/8-drive & ˝-drive torque wrenches.
• 13mm, 15mm, 19mm, 9/16”, 7/8” wrenches and sockets.
• .010” & .020” feeler gauges.
• A short flat screwdriver [for setting valves afterwards].
Now clean the area around your valve covers, then, remove valve covers. Use your 7/8” short socket and place it in the reverse position & attach it to the alternator nut. You’ll only be able to turn the motor over backwards, but that is fine.
Use the ratchet to move the engine & watch your valves; you are looking for an intake valve to be on its way up [doesn’t matter what cylinder]. Once you’ve spotted the valve that’s moving, lets just pretend that’s it’s # 2, watch it as it comes up. As it approaches the top, watch the exhaust valve; as soon as the exhaust valve starts to move down STOP. That means that cylinder is on exhaust stroke [TDC] and its mate is on compression stroke. You can check this by feeling the rockers on the other cylinder [in this case # 5] & they should both be loose.
Now remove the rocker block; loosen the small bolt first [13mm head], then the big bolt [19mm head]. Use your thumb & forefinger to hold the push rods in place as you lift the rocker block off. You can now safely remove the valve springs [intake or exhaust] on that cylinder. Once you put that cylinder back together [the big bolt gets torqued first – 120 ft. lbs – then the little bolt – 18 ft. lbs], you can now move onto its mate cylinder & repeat the procedure.
So now you’ve done cylinders # 2& 5, rotate the engine some more until you spot the intake valve coming up & the exhaust valve JUST STARTING TO MOVE DOWN STOP. You’re now ready to do that pair of cylinders. A little trick that makes things easier, when you install the new valve spring into the compressor, crank it into the tool to put some preload on the spring before tightening the valve spring compressor; that’ll make it a littler easier to get the spring on the valve. The reason for this is the KD 2078 is a short throw compressor & the new 60lb springs are a little long for it. When you do get to do # 5 & 6 cylinders, the fun ones, that little trick will make life much easier.
Now, once you’ve done all the cylinders, you’ll want to check the valve clearances. That is always done on a cold motor; .010” intake, .020” exhaust. If you roll the engine over till # 1 cylinder is on compression stroke, watch the valves on # 6 cylinder do the same thing; as intake comes up & exhaust JUST starts to move down STOP you are now on exhaust stroke of # 6 & compression stroke of # 1. So, you can now set some valves. I’ve tried to show below how the valves are laid out in your motor. You can now set the valves that are marked with the *. Then roll your engine over 360 degrees [now both valves on #1 cylinder will be tight & both valves on #6 cylinder will be loose] & set all the valves that are marked with a @ sign. If you have any questions, please give us a call or drop us an email & I’ll do my best to help you thru them. If you find these instructions work good for you, post them on the TDR. It’ll save me a bunch of time.
Piers

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