Ok a week ago I bought a 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 turbo diesel. The guy told me the transmission was shot. So I had the trans rebuilt and its still doing the same thing, it doesnt have the power,,it is dogie on take of because if you put it in drive its starting out in third gear so you have to drop thr shifter down int first gear but it only goes into second gear mpves alittle better but top speed is barly 55mp h and thats holding the pedal to the floor. So I am surtain that it is in limp home mode, but mot sure what is causing I have change the fuel filter, clear the pickup screen im the heat pump, clean all the grounds and added a ground from each battier to engine block. I also cha inged the lift pump but itstill doimg the same thing.there are no codez being through on the pcm. I even unplug the pcm while it was running and it just kept running, I though t it would die when I done thatbut not even a check engine light,,bought new battier for it to. I really need help on this.anyone with amy ideas I would really be thankfull.

 

Get the codes read.
Was the gov. sensor and transducer replace on the trans?
It is on the VB. Are you sure it was plugged in? It is on the passenger side of the trans.

 

There are no the plug in on passenger side,,the said at the trans shop that they tested all pluggin on the transmission,,and yes there all plug in. there are no codes

 

Please don't think I'm being critical here, but... you've done all this in a WEEK???

 

Yes all in a week. I dont like to waste time on anything and I stay with it until I am done. I have alot of hour in on it. Thanks for the help

 

shelliman, you need to inspect the trans wiring from the PCM to the trans connector, though if I remember correctly, mine was on the drivers side, not passenger..

It could be chaffed, could be broken, could be corrosion at the terminals. I would also swap the trans relay with another to verify, it is located in the PDC under the hood.

Next I would STRONGLY advise you to get a Factory Service Manual from Genos Garage, 35 bucks in .PDF format, and will save your tail more than you would believe.

Your trans connector is as follows.

terminal
1 Trans relay enable

2- +5VDC orange wire to PCM C2, terminal B31

3- Sensor Ground Blk/Lt. Brown

4 Gove. Press signal Lt.Green/White

5 Gov. Solenoid Violet/White

6- O/D solenoid Brown

7 TCC Solenoid Orange/Black

8- Trans Temp sensor Violet

Start there, if your trans was built right, it is either the PCM or somewhere in between, I have seen in between be the issue 95 percent of the time.

 

Check to see that your fuel shut off solenoid is pulling up all the way. If it isn't, that'll explain why you can't break 55. Ensure the throttle linkage is adjusted so you get full throttle movement on the pump.

 

You're definitely in limp mode. Swap the horn relay into the ASD slot and take it for a rip. I've seen that Auto Shut-down Relay go a time or two.
Next on the suspicion list would be the governor pressure sensor and solenoid. As j-fox mentioned, were these replaced when the trans was rebuilt? as a pair?
It's no quick solution, but I also would recommend getting a FSM or an ATSG manual.

 

yes the pressure relay and governor relays where replaced in trans as well as the torque converter,, and got a fuel pressure kit today and it has 0 pressure at idle and 15 at around 2500 rpm,, has to guess rpm because the rpm gauge doesn't work,, also the needle on the pressure tester was bouncing back and forth rather quickly,, I have look for kinks in the fuel line and there is none,,, any ideals,,I have already replace the lift pump a few days ago.I have the tester on the the banjo bolt on top of the fuel filter on the line that goes into the injection pump,, put it there because that was the size banjo bolt adapter I had and that's where it would fit..plus does anyone now why my rpm gauge doesn't work or where it hooks on the engine. trans still doesn't down shift,, it has drive and second gear if drop shifter down,, no first gear or over drive

 

Fuel pressure's no good. Over Flow Valve is shot, air in the lines or perhaps your fuel filter is plugged. If your needle bounces around on your test kit, then you better put a needle valve in-line to control the pulsation or your new gauge is goanna eat rhubarb. Pulsaton is normal though, because the lift pump is a single piston pump.

RPM gauge could be as simple as an adjustment on the sensor...

For the trans issue, as I said before, try swapping your horn relay with the ASD (Automatic Shut-Down) relay and check that fuse #8 is good (should be a 20 amper)

 

thanks, but I did try that and no luck

 

Sounds like you need to set your engine speed sensor. It reads off the balancer, should be ~0.050" gap. That would explain part of your tranny issues. Is the truck charging? If not, that confirms the ESS. If it is charging, then that may indicate issues with the gauge cluster or PCM.

Hand prime the lift pump. You should be able to hear the OFV squealing each time you push. If not, then it may be stuck open. You can also pinch off the rubber hose in the return line. Pressure should spike up. That will confirm if you need more restriction on the return side.

 

Yep over flow sensor is bad,pinch off the over flow line and now it reads 52 psi,,that seems kinda high though,,
Ok I check the engine speed sensor and its not on right,, some one had taken the spacer out from behind it so it was over the pulley and not the ballancer. I am going to hardware to see if I can get some spacer now. thanks for the info I hope this will take care of everything,,may have to get a new engine speed sensor because there a small chunk missing. but will see.. I order new overflow valve no one had one and the dealership wanted $200 for it, so order one on ebay for $30,,thanks again will update the posting after I get parts

 

I know that, I just wasn't engaged at that time!!!
Drivers side..
With a used truck i would start looking for wires added by the last owner. I had a similar issue with a friend and he thought the extra wire was for the lock up/ noise issue. But they had it going to the wrong plug on the PCM.
If you restart it does it use 1st the first time them skip it after that?

 

If your tach is not working, your trans cannot work correctly. The PCM thinks the truck is not running. Tach signal is your number 1 issue right now. Once the PCM knows the engine is running, your trans will probably act fine.

PCM brings in the trans relay.........no relay, no voltage. There are people parting these things out on Ebay, last time I checked there was a whole bolt/spacer/used engine speed sensor for 50 bucks. You need to make sure it is close to right, air gap is .049/.051 or a business card away, whichever you have.

Get it working before you drive it much, you aren't doing that rebuilt trans any good driving in limp mode.