1996 47re trans problems
#1
1996 47re trans problems
I just picked up a 1996 2500 ram ctd with 40,000 miles. it has been wrecked and sitting for 11 years. i have ben through the main concerns with bring it back to service. All fluids and seals and misellanious solinoids and sensors. I now am fighting the problematic tramsmission. i have changed the fluid and checked the levels numerous times. I replaced a solinoid that ken from wild diesel told me to try and also the tps. It still seems to have a problem with lock up and shifting. it seems to be worst at night. today i drove it probably 70 to 100 miles stop and go and cruising. it worked fine. when i turned on the headlights it started having problems. when i pulled in my drive way the gen light came on and my voltmeter was registering about 10 volts. symptoms of alternator failure. I guess my question to anyone out there is, could the loss of voltage of my alternator be causing my shifting troubles or do you have any more suggestions? Thank you for your help. twister96
#2
Yes.
Now tell us what if it is unlocking the converter, then relocking it very fast.
Alternator noise can cause it. I bet the brushes are shot and made a lot of sparks. There is also a noise filter you can buy that seems to fix most of these issues.
Use the search feature.
Now tell us what if it is unlocking the converter, then relocking it very fast.
Alternator noise can cause it. I bet the brushes are shot and made a lot of sparks. There is also a noise filter you can buy that seems to fix most of these issues.
Use the search feature.
#4
I was very tired last night and didn't read the entire post. ( I'm still tired)
You do have a lock/un-lock of the converter going on.
If you do the search thing, you are going to find this.
Clean all battery grounds. Get the alternator working. It is not common for these to fail, check it first.
If it still cycles through lock-up, the next thing is to get a electrical filter from these guys.
http://dieseltrans.com
You will also find others say to cut wires and re-route them. ( I don't like this as we all repair them differently).
Also alluminum foil wrapped around the brown wire behind the alternator that goes to the pass. battery helps some trucks.
You do have a lock/un-lock of the converter going on.
If you do the search thing, you are going to find this.
Clean all battery grounds. Get the alternator working. It is not common for these to fail, check it first.
If it still cycles through lock-up, the next thing is to get a electrical filter from these guys.
http://dieseltrans.com
You will also find others say to cut wires and re-route them. ( I don't like this as we all repair them differently).
Also alluminum foil wrapped around the brown wire behind the alternator that goes to the pass. battery helps some trucks.
#5
I was very tired last night and didn't read the entire post. ( I'm still tired)
You do have a lock/un-lock of the converter going on.
If you do the search thing, you are going to find this.
Clean all battery grounds. Get the alternator working. It is not common for these to fail, check it first.
If it still cycles through lock-up, the next thing is to get a electrical filter from these guys.
http://dieseltrans.com
You will also find others say to cut wires and re-route them. ( I don't like this as we all repair them differently).
Also alluminum foil wrapped around the brown wire behind the alternator that goes to the pass. battery helps some trucks.
You do have a lock/un-lock of the converter going on.
If you do the search thing, you are going to find this.
Clean all battery grounds. Get the alternator working. It is not common for these to fail, check it first.
If it still cycles through lock-up, the next thing is to get a electrical filter from these guys.
http://dieseltrans.com
You will also find others say to cut wires and re-route them. ( I don't like this as we all repair them differently).
Also alluminum foil wrapped around the brown wire behind the alternator that goes to the pass. battery helps some trucks.
twister96:
DTR Member "jfox" is giving you some very good advice. I wanted to add that on the older 94'-98.5 Dodge CTD 12 valve trucks, there has been electrical
"glitches" from improper grounds from the alternator, batteries and associated electrical wiring, especially on vehicles that have set-up for awhile and corrosion has built up on ANY of the "grounds" in the electrical system.
As jfox told you, thoroughly clean your battery terminals and ALL ground wires you can find in the electrical system. On a few of my friends used Dodge CTD 12 valves, we have physically removed the ground wires, taken sand paper and sanded off corrosion and dirt all around these contacts taking off all corrosion, dirt etc. all the way down to the original metal for an insured good ground contact and in some of the cases it helped them alot.
Let us know how you make out. Good luck.
--------
John_P
#6
thank you. I will try cleaning the grounds and check my wiring. it is really effected by the head lights. it is almost as if i have switch to turn the problems on and off. if the headlights are on it has problems. if they are off i have no problems. not so much as a hickup. when the head lights were on i was watching the voltmeter and when the voltage would drop below 12 volts the trans would kick out or unlock. when the rpms would rise from this the voltmeter would in turn rise and when it would pass 12 volts, it would lock back up and go like no problem. then as the rpms dropped from the gear change the volts would again drop and then it would unlock again. thanks for the help. i willl post again when i can.
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#10
Experiencing 1996 47re shifting issues as well. Particularly from 1st to 2nd, then an abrupt downshift when rolling to a stop. The governor sensor, valve body and kickdown sensor were replaced. The trans was serviced too. It is better, but still not smoothly shifting.
The alternator is putting out a good charge.
The alternator is putting out a good charge.
#12
Not sure what can be going in the VB, but it might be a good time to drop it and investigate. 96 was the first year of electronic governor pressure control, but you have already changed the sensor and I assume the solenoid.
Just for grins, could you clarify the kickdown sensor that was replaced? That function is cable controlled.
Just for grins, could you clarify the kickdown sensor that was replaced? That function is cable controlled.
#13
The previous owner put in a Banks Power Kickdown servo, which I was told was not working properly. However, after it was replaced by a new one (Banks Power Kickdown Servo), it was only slightly better. The current Valve Body is also an aftermarket BD unit. I am being told it is not holding the correct pressure and should be replaced.
Still believe it was caused by the overheat condition that occurred back in May.
Still believe it was caused by the overheat condition that occurred back in May.
#14
I would check to see if BD has an installer in your area that they trust to diagnose the problem. That may be easier than replacing a VB that may not be the problem.
Sometimes the local guy doesn't have the necessary knowledge to properly diagnose these issues, especially in the transmission area.
Chris
Sometimes the local guy doesn't have the necessary knowledge to properly diagnose these issues, especially in the transmission area.
Chris
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