12V Wont Start After Changing Fuel Filter and Adjusting Smoke Screw
#1
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12V Wont Start After Changing Fuel Filter and Adjusting Smoke Screw
Truck was running fine until I decided to tweek the AFC and while I was under the hood I changed the fuel filter. Now the truck won't start. See my signature for list of truck modifications.
What I did:
- Removed the AFC from the truck.
- Set the star wheel from all the way forward to back three turns.
- removed the "smoke screw cover" from the end of the AFC (end nearest firewall).
- Loosed the lock nut and backed the smoke screw off then turned it in until I just felt resistance and set the lock nut.
- Re-installed the AFC and set the AFC housing from all the way forward to middle of travel.
- Removed old fuel filter.
- Filled the replacement filter about 2/3 full with Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement® +Cetane Boost®.
- Installed new filter and pumped the fuel up from the Fuel Transfer Pump (FTP) until I felt resistance.
- Cranked truck, it stumbled like it usually does after a fuel filter change but instead of firing up it stopped stumbling and just cranked until the battery runs down.
- Recharged batteries cracked loose banjo fitting at the top of the fuel filter supply line to the Fuel Pump, pumped FTP plunger until fuel started running out of the banjo fitting. Tightened up banjo fitting. Moved to Fuel Pump inlet banjo fitting, loosened bolt and repeated the plunger pumping until fuel leaked out of the banjo bolt. Tightened up banjo fitting. Pumped the plunger for two more minutes.
- Fried watched for Fuel Shut Off Solenoid to move when ignition key was set to crank. It operated as required.
- Cranked truck and not even a stumble like it was getting fuel.
- Opened up the air filter housing and friend sprayed some starter fluid into the hose. Cranked truck and it ran for a couple of seconds. Cranked again, no start just ran down batteries.
- Recharged batteries. Pumped the FTP plunger until resistance. Friend loosened supply line at the injector. Cranked truck and no sign of fuel.
- Changed fuel filter a second time and used diesel fuel to fill. Pumped the FTP plunger...cranked and still no run.
- Moved star wheel to all the way forward as it was before I started all this.
- Moved the AFC housing all the way forward as it was before I started all this.
- Pumped FTP plunger...tried to start and it only cranks.
Any ideas?
What I did:
- Removed the AFC from the truck.
- Set the star wheel from all the way forward to back three turns.
- removed the "smoke screw cover" from the end of the AFC (end nearest firewall).
- Loosed the lock nut and backed the smoke screw off then turned it in until I just felt resistance and set the lock nut.
- Re-installed the AFC and set the AFC housing from all the way forward to middle of travel.
- Removed old fuel filter.
- Filled the replacement filter about 2/3 full with Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement® +Cetane Boost®.
- Installed new filter and pumped the fuel up from the Fuel Transfer Pump (FTP) until I felt resistance.
- Cranked truck, it stumbled like it usually does after a fuel filter change but instead of firing up it stopped stumbling and just cranked until the battery runs down.
- Recharged batteries cracked loose banjo fitting at the top of the fuel filter supply line to the Fuel Pump, pumped FTP plunger until fuel started running out of the banjo fitting. Tightened up banjo fitting. Moved to Fuel Pump inlet banjo fitting, loosened bolt and repeated the plunger pumping until fuel leaked out of the banjo bolt. Tightened up banjo fitting. Pumped the plunger for two more minutes.
- Fried watched for Fuel Shut Off Solenoid to move when ignition key was set to crank. It operated as required.
- Cranked truck and not even a stumble like it was getting fuel.
- Opened up the air filter housing and friend sprayed some starter fluid into the hose. Cranked truck and it ran for a couple of seconds. Cranked again, no start just ran down batteries.
- Recharged batteries. Pumped the FTP plunger until resistance. Friend loosened supply line at the injector. Cranked truck and no sign of fuel.
- Changed fuel filter a second time and used diesel fuel to fill. Pumped the FTP plunger...cranked and still no run.
- Moved star wheel to all the way forward as it was before I started all this.
- Moved the AFC housing all the way forward as it was before I started all this.
- Pumped FTP plunger...tried to start and it only cranks.
Any ideas?
#3
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Remove the overflow valve and pump the lift pump until it spurts out of that. Turn the key on, pull the solenoid up (in case its not pulling up on its own). When you crank it over, give it some throttle. Don't pump it like a carb, just hold it half way and let it crank. Should fire in about 20 seconds.
#4
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or if thats too slow shove a rag in the fuel tank filler nozzle with an airgun and pump a couple pounds of air in the tank until you get fuel out the overflow
I pumped that primer bulb on my truck for damm near an hour, (thumb about to fall off) and still couldn't get fuel
finally said hell with it and put air to the tank and that worked well
I pumped that primer bulb on my truck for damm near an hour, (thumb about to fall off) and still couldn't get fuel
finally said hell with it and put air to the tank and that worked well
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Thats odd it took that long, I reprimed my whole system in about 5 minutes of pumping when I had my IP off, and changed filter and lift pump. I crawled on top of the engine and used the heel of my hand to pump, instead of using my thump from the side. Or use a broom handle (or the whole broom) to push it, its easier using both arms instead of just one.
#6
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It was cold and I was pizzed
wonder if the primer bulb could go out yet the LP be functional?
I replaced my lift pump, can't remember why but I bet it was because the primer bulb was out. I remember I thought I lost a push rod into the block but luckly I found it down in one of the engine mounts
been a long time ago, I've had this truck since like 1998
wonder if the primer bulb could go out yet the LP be functional?
I replaced my lift pump, can't remember why but I bet it was because the primer bulb was out. I remember I thought I lost a push rod into the block but luckly I found it down in one of the engine mounts
been a long time ago, I've had this truck since like 1998
#7
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wonder if the primer bulb could go out yet the LP be functional?
I haven't used a primer pump in 15 years, an old fuel cap with an air chuck tapped in works so much better.
With the bleed screw on top of the filter housing opened a couple of turns 5 psi of air will fill the filter and bleed all the air in about 15 seconds depending on how full the tank is.
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#8
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I haven't tried the suggestions, yet. I am going to make a fuel cap with an air valve. I made one several years ago but now that I need it, I can't find it.
#9
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It Runs!
It's running again.
I fitted a fuel cap with a heavy duty two piece valve stem to allow for pressurization of the tank.
Loosened the overflow banjo bolt and waited until fuel was seeping. Then tightened up.
Tried to start the truck, stumble a little then just cranked. Had to vent each injector to get the air out of the fuel pump. Then the truck started but would not run!!
Looked at Fuel Shut Off Solenoid and the it wasn't holding once the key went from start to run. Checked wires and had voltage at both key positions.
Problem was the piece of inner tube I was using for a cover started coming apart and bound the wire spring. The heavy volt of the start position could overcome the interference. The lower volt of the run position could not overcome the interference. Removed the inner tube piece and the truck starts and runs
Ordered a new cover from Genos.
I fitted a fuel cap with a heavy duty two piece valve stem to allow for pressurization of the tank.
Loosened the overflow banjo bolt and waited until fuel was seeping. Then tightened up.
Tried to start the truck, stumble a little then just cranked. Had to vent each injector to get the air out of the fuel pump. Then the truck started but would not run!!
Looked at Fuel Shut Off Solenoid and the it wasn't holding once the key went from start to run. Checked wires and had voltage at both key positions.
Problem was the piece of inner tube I was using for a cover started coming apart and bound the wire spring. The heavy volt of the start position could overcome the interference. The lower volt of the run position could not overcome the interference. Removed the inner tube piece and the truck starts and runs
Ordered a new cover from Genos.
#10
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Loosened the overflow banjo bolt and waited until fuel was seeping.
Pressurizing the tank pushes fuel though both the supply and return lines from the tank.
With just the OF valve banjo open you mainly will be bleeding just the return line.
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